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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Jan 18, 2012 - 05:12pm PT
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i say Julie and Michael did a good job too!
not that either would take credit, The Summit is Hayden's but the kid is the Kennedy's!
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KyleO
Gym climber
Calgary, AB
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2012 - 05:15pm PT
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This thread should be deleted? lol
After people have congratulated these two fine men and there hard work...
Who knows what the exact details are, they are somewhat irrelevant.
Whats big is that they got up the route from bottom to top in impeccable fast style which directly contrasts the style of ascent the route was put up in.
Is anything really free?
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Gene
climber
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Jan 18, 2012 - 05:15pm PT
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I get a kick out of the disclaimer on the Alpinist.com site.
Full Disclosure: Hayden Kennedy is the son of Alpinist's Editor-in-Chief Michael Kennedy. —Ed
g
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jan 18, 2012 - 05:20pm PT
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Why is it so hard to clarify whether it was free climbed, or some aid was used.
Did I miss something?
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Gene
climber
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Jan 18, 2012 - 05:34pm PT
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My understanding is that they climbed the a line close to and maybe partially on the Maestri Compressor route - as far as that goes - without using any of Maestri's 450 bolts.
Based on the info about the attempt last year, I guess that the climb did not go free.
Kruk and Canadian Chris Geisler came very close last February, when they climbed to within 40 meters of the top of the headwall without using Maestri's bolts, with a mix of free and aid climbing.
The significance is that this is the first ascent of one of the most stunning lines on planet Earth without using bolts placed by that gas powered drill machine.
g
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Jan 18, 2012 - 05:40pm PT
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I think this is a fabulous accomplishment, and I'm pleased as punch, but in all of this euphoria can we get some love for the emotional quandry of the lovely Julie Kennedy... not only did she have to weather the outrageously high-intensity, long duration, world class alpine career of her husband Michael, but now she has to keep the hatches battened down while her son goes hard in the big mountains.
Julie, you have my most profound sympathies. I think YOU should get the Piolet d'Or this is likely going to earn...
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Gene
climber
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Jan 18, 2012 - 05:42pm PT
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Greg,
Is my post just before yours correct?
Thanks,
g
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Jan 18, 2012 - 05:47pm PT
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Gene, without hearing the details from Hayden and Jason, I'd think so... and yes, it's an amazing, world class feature.
I'd also expect that Rolando Garibotti will launch a campaign to remove the bolts from the Maestri Route... about which I'd have mixed feelings: I could see where Rolo would (theoretically, of course) be coming from, but I think I might find myself of the opinion that the damage was done long, long ago. And it's one of the best stories in the whole history of climbing, this sport being such an amazing theater of character.
I'd have to think on all of it before fully forming an opinion.
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Johnny K.
climber
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Jan 18, 2012 - 06:04pm PT
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Much respect to Kennedy and Kruk!It is mind blowing of an achievement.I am anxious to hear about the attack right before and toping out over the summit snow mushroom.
On another note,It's disconcerning hearing about the helicopters over them as they were making their ascent.
David Lamma and his helicopters are pathetic,disturbing and polluters.
Lammas style is just as pathetic as Maestri's if not worse.Mierda style.
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Cor
climber
Colorado
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Jan 18, 2012 - 06:15pm PT
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Good job fellas!
Put that in yer pipe n smoke it Lama!
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Michael Kennedy
Social climber
Carbondale, Colorado
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Jan 18, 2012 - 07:12pm PT
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It should be noted that none of us have heard directly from the youth brigade. They are probably still out there climbing since the weather is good.
Colin's original Facebook post, based on his firsthand observation, is indeed exciting news, and his knowledge of the area lends this initial report a certain credibility. Everything else is pure speculation.
I certainly hope Hayden and Jason freed the Compressor Route in the larger sense but for now we all might want to take a deep breath and calm down. I'll be psyched to hear the full story. No matter what the specifics, I'm sure the climb was an incredible and beautiful adventure, and I have no doubt that those two will tell the tale with grace and humility.
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david albert
Trad climber
argentina
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Jan 21, 2012 - 10:52am PT
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The pair of selfish climbers destroy the Compressor upper part of the route in the descent, exept the belays to return home, of course. Coward actitud and a total lack of ethics.
For the comunity of climbers that live in El Chaltén that act was stupid and unnecesary,absolutelly no respect for the way of thinking of the others.
A dictatorial behaviour in hands of very young people.
And by the way, is to free a route to climb some sections in A2?
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PeteC
climber
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Jan 21, 2012 - 11:26am PT
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Grace and humility?
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david albert
Trad climber
argentina
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Jan 21, 2012 - 01:11pm PT
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Cragman I live in El Chaltén and i am just returning from the police station where i was taking pictures of the 102 bolt the two stars still had in his bags one day ago. The rest where shared with some acolits of the new inquisitors of the mountains. Regards.
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New Age II
climber
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Jan 21, 2012 - 01:23pm PT
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The two boys have not done all for free ..... plus they burned a piece of history that way .....
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david albert
Trad climber
argentina
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Jan 21, 2012 - 02:07pm PT
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 21, 2012 - 02:11pm PT
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Cool photo of the bolt cleanup.
It looks like they came out pretty cleanly.
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KyleO
Gym climber
Calgary, AB
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2012 - 02:58pm PT
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No the route was not freed, it was climbed at 5.11 A2 as noted above and in other threads.
Some people see their climb as a clean up of Cerro Torre. The Compressor route has finally been relieved, and the wall stands naturally and fairly presented to future alpinists.
Others view it as the slaying of a historical and classical route which has had a peculiar yet particular part in the history of 20th century alpinism.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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Jan 21, 2012 - 03:26pm PT
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HAHA! what a photograph.
Look closely at that photo and note that there are numerous rings with pegs left behind. (top-right in particular)
How long before those things start generating commerce on eBay?
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squishy
Mountain climber
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Jan 21, 2012 - 04:27pm PT
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It is just me or does it seem like they climbed a NEW route or a VARIATION, then took a different route down and chopped it?
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