Sugarloaf: New(ish) Routes

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mcreel

climber

Barcelona

Jan 14, 2012 - 05:16am PT

Bolee Gold is a great climb, and a bold guy like Walt Shipley found it inspiring enough to motivate one of his famous video beta displays. I think I often rapped off after the first pitch, though.

I'm glad to hear that our route is getting done. At the time we did it I didn't think it was much more than average quality for the Loaf. I love all those routes, at least the ones I could do.

Salamanizer

Trad climber

The land of Fruits & Nuts!

Jan 14, 2012 - 10:17am PT

I never said the route sucked.

I guess my wording was a little harsh. By 4th class bullshit I ment easier climbing, much easier than the crux pitch anyway. The route is fun and I like the upper pitches more than the first but it goes from 10c pulling to a hike. Sustainment is a major factor in quality of the overall route IMO.

Birdman is sustained and the same quality of climbing as the first pitch of Bolee Gold.... and about 100ft longer. If BG had been three pitches of .10c or three of 5.5 I suspect it would have been more classic to me.

Ok, 5.6 tops!!!

Stewart Johnson

climber

lake forest

Jan 14, 2012 - 11:05am PT

bolee gold is fourth class? wow i need to get to the gym so i can send it.

tahoe yahoos? how about fuking wankers from below lake level.

Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber

Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2012 - 01:42pm PT

Thanks Chad.
I think your route on Sugarbun is pretty classic and probably never done. It probably needs another bolt and a clean. Depending of course how keen you are for it to get traffic? Personally, I want people on my routes. It keeps them clean and I get a kick out of other people digging a cool line I put up. For other first ascentionists, it's about the FA experience which I can understand. Just not my typical MO. I'm guessing not entirely yours either or I wouldn't have thought you'd have taken the time to pull your on-lead 1/4 inchers and sink 3/8 bolts.
What is it called again?
Besides you and I, do you think it's been done again?
a

bergbryce

Mountain climber

South Lake Tahoe, CA

Jan 14, 2012 - 10:41pm PT

Climbed BG in 2 long pitches a while back, I recall a short 5.10 section near the top of the first pitch, 2nd pitch was easy 5th class aside from a heads up 5.8 move probably 20' above your last pro and then slinging a knob. After that was maybe 50' 4th class to the top. I thought it was an incredible route then but that was before I started doing the finger crack circuit at the Loaf, which imho, is the standout climbing style at that crag.

I'd rather see routes put up that can be climbed by others than ones that will sit there and grow moss.

Salamanizer

Trad climber

The land of Fruits & Nuts!

Jan 16, 2012 - 01:13am PT

^^^^^
EXACTLY.

Bolee gold, pitch 1, 5.10c. Pitch 2, 5ft of .10a. Pitch 3, Easy 5th or more commonly referred to 4th class in the Sierra.

Aidan, my route on the bun (The Sound of Perseverance) got a repeat this weekend. As did your route that crosses through Pan Dulce. Honest opinion, loose the first bolt, it's a retro and remove the intermediate anchor. Would be better as one pitch. Move the upper anchor left to a better stance above the scoop. Solid .11a, maybe height dependent crux. Excellent and totally independent route, except for the first bolt.

Stewie... That water's full of mercury. Quit drinking it! Obviously too late in your case.

kennyt

climber

California

Jan 16, 2012 - 06:30pm PT

Ron, You have seen my tub of bolts do you think I could get in on it?

Scott Thelen

Trad climber

Truckee, Ca

Jan 16, 2012 - 06:38pm PT

You put them in.

I'll take them out.

Then we can go to a new crag and repeat.

This sounds like fun.

kennyt

climber

California

Jan 16, 2012 - 06:43pm PT

I think Scott has some extra bits maybe he could tag along. Doe's a Bosch count as hand drilling? it fits in your hand.

Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber

Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2012 - 07:37pm PT

Note token Chad. Always appreciate the honest feedback. I rather like the opening 25 feet. Sustained and technical, but that's just me. The belay has large feet to stand on if you lower a few feet. I think only you could rate it 11a!

Ron,
that proposed route was done a few years ago with a handful of slings. It's called Duty to the Past. Unrated. Did in 2 pitches with triple 70m rope technique. Don't even think about bolting it mister

Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Jan 16, 2012 - 08:12pm PT

So Ron, is that some sort of training for the sleds team? Will Weld_it be contributing?

m_jones

Trad climber

Carson City, NV

Jan 17, 2012 - 01:22am PT

So I went climbing the other day at Sugarloaf - First time in maybe oh about 30 years or so. Beautiful mid January fall day.

Imagine my shock at seeing bolts on one of my routes from way back in the day and a convenient rap anchor after the difficult bit so the whole thing does not have to climbed to the top.

Was I pissed - he## yea!!

At least you kids could have had the decency to do all subsequent ascents with the tied off knife blades we used. wtf!!

By now the pin scars would be big enough that I might have a shot at getting my old self up Hookers again ;)

Scott Thelen

Trad climber

Truckee, Ca

Jan 17, 2012 - 09:39am PT

Those crazy kids ...

wankers..

Hardman Knott

Gym climber

Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca

Jan 17, 2012 - 09:49am PT

You old people need to lighten up!

This is the Golden Age, where rap bolting and convenience anchors are just part of the cost of being golden.

Who wants to waste time topping out on a route when there are so many stellar new climbs to fire off rat a tat tat?

It is the Golden Age of the outdoor gym...

m_jones

Trad climber

Carson City, NV

Jan 17, 2012 - 07:20pm PT

Actually I am really impressed by the standard of climbing now and the lets enjoy a great day and have fun attitude by most I have met at the crags lately.

And now that I really think about it, I take it as a complement that someone took the time to set up Hookers so more would free the route. And would have been really disappointed if there were huge pin scars up there.

We were freeing an aid route and for some reason kind of respected the way it was aided. We did not feel we should place bolts in a dicy A4 route. The free crux was led above a tied off pin stack.
Seems T Caldwell is playing by the same rules on a much grander scale these days.

The active generation over the years calls the shots.

The gray generation offers perspective on an activity we care deeply about.

(no sarcasm in this bit BTW)

Norwegian

Trad climber

Placerville, California

Jan 17, 2012 - 07:34pm PT

i've lost arrows for fingers,
talons for toes.

Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber

Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2012 - 07:30pm PT

If you climb Telesis you can now do an additional second pitch.
The original line that P Crawford put up (as Swamp Thing), went to the big ledge below Grand Illusion. The anchor put in years ago stopped at the hard climbing about 50 feet below the ledge. The last 50 being 5.7 or less.
Instead head up and right from the belay to gain a small ledge and the sharp arete that is formed by the Left face of the Dominion dihedral.
4 bolts go up the sharp arete and directly over a cool overhanging scoop clearly visible from the ground to the main GI ledge. 10+.
Dubbed the "Swamp finish"

Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber

Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2012 - 12:36am PT

Good grief. Nary a nibble of interest or a single slanderous remark?
Where's Ron A when you need him:)

Tim Camuti

Trad climber

Feb 22, 2012 - 01:33am PT

We of the younger generation know nothing and need photo topos to tell us where to go. If the route isn't on the intardnet it doesn't exist. Post a photo topo of it on 8a.nu so we can find it, send it, and fight over bragging rights!