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micronut
Trad climber
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My first Big Wall anchor this past summer on The Column. Top of Pitch 2.
I really wanted to make Hudon proud with this one after much practice and disipleship.
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WBraun
climber
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Bolt anchors are not "Big wall anchors" just way homo n00b spray ;-)
You hafta put in a bunch mank all equalized together in sh!ty placements to make your claim ......
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Like this Werner?
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WBraun
climber
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Yes ....
Much better .......
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Well, regardless of what Werner says, big wall anchors, at least in Yosemite these days, on quite a few wall routes, are three or more 3/8 bolts.
Lost in America anchor.
The green rope on the left is where the second is coming up, the white rope is the haul line that I'm rapping on and jugging back up the next day.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Hudon inspired anchor. Make a butterfly with a big loop, equalize with a clove hitch or whatever other knot you want to use. Boom! Fast, easy, bomber, clean
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Briham, you got it!
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Jacemullen
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Feb 19, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
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Sorry for bringing up a dead thread but Google lead me here.
Mark,
On the first picture you posted on the first page, I see that you docked your haulbags on the left and middle bolts. Were did you put your pullys/hauling system? I really like the simplicity of your anchors but where to setup a haul from is the one thing that has been killing me since I first read about it on your website.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Feb 19, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
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With big beefy new bolts, I just attach it to one of them and haul. It is of course backed up to the other one or two bolts. If the bolts aren't so bomber make an equalized anchor out of slings, cordlette,etc... and haul off that
Micronut's picture a few post up shows this
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Feb 19, 2013 - 06:58pm PT
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Jace, on that particular anchor I hauled from the middle bolt. I don't worry about modern 3/8" bolts failing under a hauling load but the fact that the left-most bolt sort of backed it up made me happy.
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Nilepoc
Big Wall climber
Tx
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Feb 19, 2013 - 07:38pm PT
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 19, 2013 - 10:04pm PT
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Mark,
Beautifully simple anchors, but why a butterfly and not an overhand or figure-eight? Adjustability or security, or ... . I know there must be something I'm missing.
Thanks
Darwin
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Feb 19, 2013 - 10:12pm PT
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The butterfly can easily be moved along the rope and you can make the loop bigger or smaller without untying the knot, a great feature for equalizing onto other parts of the anchor. Additionally, the knot can get pulled in three directions and not get distorted.
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Gene
climber
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Feb 19, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
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the knot can get pulled in three directions and not get distorted.
I trust that not too much strength is lost with this knot?
I simply don't know.
Thanks,
g
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Feb 19, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
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Gene, it's strong in all those directions, that's another beauty of it.
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Vlada
Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
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Oct 28, 2014 - 04:17pm PT
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A question to Mark Hudon: Assuming that the current leader will lead the next pitch, how does the follower tie into the anchor after he jugs up to it? Does the follower tie into the anchor using his end of the rope in the same way as the leader did? Thanks.
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whitemeat
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Oct 28, 2014 - 06:24pm PT
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I am not mark hudon but, I like to tie in with daisy chains, 1 on the master point and 1 on a bolt out of the way, or on the first peice of gear for the lead, this makes the transition easier...
It really doesn't matter how you tie into an anchor though!!!
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Vlada
Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
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Oct 29, 2014 - 08:46am PT
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What whitemeat describes is what we do when the follower becomes the leader for the next pitch (switching leads at the anchor). It is simple, efficient, and safe.
However my question was related to the case when the leader leads in blocks (i.e. the previous leader leads the next pitch). How should the follower attach to the anchor so that the anchor would be safe even if the leader takes a Factor 2 fall on the anchor?
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Oct 29, 2014 - 10:31am PT
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However my question was related to the case when the leader leads in blocks
Swap ends of the rope, triple checking your tethers/daisies/knots before and after the high-G maneuver?
...even if the leader takes a Factor 2 fall on the anchor?
Don't. Redirect the rope through a draw on a bolt, there will be enough extra rope between the belayer and that draw to greatly reduce the fall factor, and the belayer will go for a small ride to further reduce the impact. Am I missing something?
Hudon's setup does not create a nice obvious "Power Point" like a cordelette, but instead uses squishy rope on (hopefully) bomber bolts to be good enough. The follower gets 2 semi-equalized bolts to jug on, but the belayer is hanging off of one clove, backed up to the other bolts. With good bolts this is just fine with me.
I am however not a fan of hauling off of 1-bolt, it weirds me out, especially with a static haul line. Nothing about his main haul anchor precludes hauling off of a sliding-X or knotted sling to put some redundancy into the haul anchor. He ties all the bolts together so you wonld not lose the pig entirely, but there could be quite the mess if the haul bolt popped and the whole rig dropped a couple feet.
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