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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 21, 2006 - 03:51pm PT
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2am. Josh. Pig Pen. Mountain Boots. No Spotters. No Chalk. No Pads. Full Moon. No Headlamp. Drunk as a Sailor on Shore Leave.
Yep, that's how we did it all all back in the day n' shite.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 21, 2006 - 03:52pm PT
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"healyje -- tens of thousands of pull-ups, and a steady diet of hard bouldering, hard routes, strong liquor, and bad weed."
 tens of thousands of pull-ups - nope
steady diet hard bouldering - nope, had too many FA's to work on
hard routes - check
strong liquor - check
bad weed - nope, good weed, hash, shrooms, and acid
Working on FA's and the quality of our drugs played no small part in our lack of motivation for bouldering and pullups. It was our loss, no doubt, as in the long run our SoIll approach clearly ran out of gas at the end of technique and good but not great strength and endurance compared to your SoCal approach.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2006 - 06:08pm PT
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Yes, Blort.
Blort: I think you might be more entertaining than the real rodd-nickson.
Yes, I am a n00b.
n00b,n00b,n00b.
Your stuff is the Max, the Most, The Bomb.
I had no idea Russ was in the running for Wonder Woman: Post OP.
But I did know that he and MP liked to cuddle up...
Healyje: I can't believe, even for a moment, that you might get a straight answer on the training tip, nor that you would truly ask for the like. I'm gonna be the Tard and play straight, for 2 seconds. See, deep in the bowels of the 70's, there were climbing specific strength training excercices: Eldorados, La Canadas. High school Gymnastics catapulted me from 5.7D, straight over 5.8 and into the Glory of the Open Book, Tahquitz 5.9. Then...
Nah. Can't do it. BVB? I'm in deep and need extrication puh-leeze...
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Mar 21, 2006 - 06:16pm PT
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I remember some very late night bouldering sessions with Leavitt, Hershman, Yaniro and Waugh. I have no idea how we could climb for so many hours day after day. Wish it was still that way! Now days I am lucky if I can climb more than 2 days in a row, period.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 21, 2006 - 06:27pm PT
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Tar, your right - I wasn't asking for training advice - just kind of following up more on my earlier comment of not realizing how ingrained "training" was in your guy's thinking and approach there in SoCal. Ditto for such an early dedication to bouldering, though that one I get given the rocks you had at places like Stoney Point.
Funny, I was born in LA. My parent's lived in an apartment on La Tijera three blocks from 405 but we moved away to Boston and then Chicago when I was younger. Wouldn't trade my SoIll climbing roots for anything but it's interesting to wonder if I would have found my way into the throng there had they stayed put or would I have not ended up a climber at all...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 21, 2006 - 07:15pm PT
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you wanna get burly? run 10 laps a day on this for 10 years. you'll get swole. but you might end up with a mug like mine....your choice..."i know what your thinking...was that five laps, or six? well...ya feelin' lucky, punk??"
must....have....more...WOOOODDDSUUUUUNNNN...!!!!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2006 - 07:54pm PT
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Healyje,
Its cool Bra, I'm a chain puller. But I know what you were indicating and it is an interesting aspect of SO Cal History.
The degree to which these guys (we) were into bouldering really helped push things and I see training as an aspect or logical compliment to bouldering. Largo needed to keep his power to weight ratio in check and as well, as he mentioned somewhere in threadville, he had a more traditional athletic background which provided the natural impetus to training. Bachar was a Pole Vaulter, so he had the training lexicon embedded. Those were my direct influences per training. No doubt, Powell, Kamps and others had some inclination.
Russ Walling read all kinds of stuff, from Power Lifting to Ballet Stretch routines, as Lechlinski said one winter: "Russ prepared his body and then kicked ass." (Hueco).
There was the idea that training was anathema to the "Soul Surfer" style of cragging, but I recall most of us doing gobs of pull ups, makeshift things like Eldorados, La Canadas, Rope Ladders. We trained our ass off all winter long.
My direct experience of the sheer seasonal availability of Great Bouldering informed a lot of "Off Season" training. Just being able to climb all winter in Josh: this was a boon to the Spring Projects. JT is often harsh in winter, so bouldering/toproping was the thing. Both are/were really more a training (FUN!) oriented focus.
Notwithstanding Yaniro and Jardine earlier, as Sport Climbing proliferated following ARCO in '85, I saw we were sport climbing all along, in the form of 5.12+ toproping (70's), even given the lower to the ground ethic, (after a fall).
In the early '80's, I would head out on road trips very early in spring and I found we were much more prepared than those living in Ski Towns. Now, with Hueco and the rest, the whole SWOLE community is rippin' it all winter.
[edit] Wait, I'm not done: for me, an interesting dichotomy is the deal with the post 60's beat generation/bohemian influence in climbing on the one hand vs the intense athletic factor on the other. This is really sort of what I find compelling about climbing: the synthesis of these two elements. It brings creative problem solving skills to a very heady, adventureous and physically demanding stage.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2006 - 09:51pm PT
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Ya Joe that was the day, back in the day.
Never been to RRG. Ratstinks. F#ck. I am soooo, such a L#ser!Gahhh!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2006 - 10:31pm PT
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Bobbi, for sure.
Don't have a clue as to the route, Joe.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2006 - 12:45am PT
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Well this day, she was pissed because
I made her folow me on a somewhat grainy
5.10 1st pitch variation to 3rd Pillar of Dana.
The base has some nice cracks,
right of the regular start.
"My" variation "pajamarama" 1980:
Just right of the left most
Kick but lookin' arcing finger crack.
It's borders the right aspect of a sunlit fin.
Mid Way, "Ear Pitch".
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
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Mar 22, 2006 - 12:52am PT
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How did she get that giant marshmallow to stay put on her head?
I remember a great hissy fit by Sheila when we were doing the Kaukulator... she lost an earing and went mental at the base.... Compounded by the fact the OW section ejected her pretty quick style.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2006 - 01:26am PT
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No Dah Bra.
"Hissy fit", right after she laughed her way up the first thin bit too.
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Jobee
Social climber
El Portal
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Mar 22, 2006 - 12:03pm PT
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-Blort I am permanetly damaged from the visuals of Russ...Pleeassse don't hurt me again, that was much too tramatic for my delicate system!
Geeezee, Jghedge how could you be so young and out in the wilderness with wild savage climbers it surely tainted you!!
Tar-tar.. I do recall the girls were pretty darn emotional after the attempted Moratorium ascent I was in the lot when you returned leading them like the Pied Piper himself!
Those gals were known for their fire and fits as Russ said..and it's been documented! You can bet they can still burn up the house..stand clear..Hot Tamales! ;)
You were looking soooooo fantastic Roy..God I love ya!
hmmm..somethings very strange about the Elvis shot, what the heck?
jow
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2006 - 02:13pm PT
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Thanks for the Kudos Joe, I'm Shy but I'll take it just the same.
FYI, as I recall, me an the Super Gals actually did the route.
Hmm, maybe not the pitch that grovels up onto the walk off...
Here's a guy that a few women would bat an eyelash at:
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 22, 2006 - 02:37pm PT
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(bvb frantically raises hand):
"OOO!" OOOOOOO!! I know! I know! Steve Sutton on Fire or Retire!"
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2006 - 03:40pm PT
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Ya. Ya. Ya.
The Blue Eyed Wonder lookin' Stylish, Firing not Retiring.
'K, what's goin' down hee-ya?
Russ will want to know why I have this Pic in my Paw.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 22, 2006 - 04:53pm PT
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well, you can see the burly part of the approach to the west face in the background, so that's gotta be either the west but of LF. my guess is lurking. fish and.....gimmee a minnit....
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2006 - 05:53pm PT
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Seein' as it's not even my Photo, I'll "Guess" Lurking also.
Never mind the fact I should just know from memory.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
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Mar 22, 2006 - 05:57pm PT
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You'll never get it.... Swiss Michi took the photo and the guy with me is a German dude called Mattias.... Weird thing.... he came by the house when I was in Bishop with a whole family... hadn't seen him since that wall in 1982. He came by just a few years ago. Looks just the same and a great guy too.
Another claim to fame was Jane Sievert was driving a truck or something in Mammoth and he fell out (in the snow) and broke his knee.... the haul bag full of gear sorta never made it back to him and nobody knows where it went.... bummer.
oh yeah... Lurking Fear
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2006 - 06:24pm PT
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Strongest Man Alive.
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