Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
|
|
|
Dec 15, 2011 - 01:32pm PT
|
You and Donini.
|
|
Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
|
|
|
Dec 15, 2011 - 01:34pm PT
|
Notch Peak is a chossfest. I hiked the canyon toward the base of Book Of Saturdays a few years ago. The ten foot wide slot was peppered with white dust from rockfall. Frigging scary.
The grainy Quartzite at Painter Springs was scary in it's own way, but much more casual.
Notch Peak is on my list of scary things that I want to climb.
|
|
Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
|
|
|
Dec 15, 2011 - 01:38pm PT
|
Yeah, why not. BOS is on my short list.
|
|
adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
|
|
|
Dec 15, 2011 - 01:43pm PT
|
Eternal Flame on the Great Trango Tower, (Nameless Tower)Pakistan. Even with my aversion to cold alpine climbing, this route has stayed on the top of my lifetime bucket list. Most inspiring chunk of rock on the planet imo. A quote I saw about this climb "take all the best pitches of a lifetime of climbing and put them on a single route and you have Eternal Flame". Just getting to the base would be a worthy adventure. Photos hijacked from the internet
|
|
fsck
climber
|
|
|
Dec 15, 2011 - 01:43pm PT
|
I was seriously disappointed with the granite at Painter Springs. Good from far, far from good.
I am interested in Notch Peak mainly for the adventure/solitude/size aspect as opposed to the quality of the rock. Judging from the photos I've seen it really doesn't look all that chossy to me, but I'm a desert rat so I don't mind a little choss in my diet.
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
|
|
|
Dec 15, 2011 - 01:47pm PT
|
I am right there with you Adventurous one.
|
|
Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
|
|
|
Dec 15, 2011 - 01:49pm PT
|
Super flared in Painter Springs.
Some is good, some, not so much.
If you're into numbers it's not your place, if you're into exploration in a remote place, check it out.
I once met a NOLS group there. F*#kers posted up on the prime camping spot.
Either way, it's a place worth visiting and I'd like to get on BOS next year.
|
|
fsck
climber
|
|
|
Dec 15, 2011 - 01:56pm PT
|
A poor man's Eternal Flame?
Last Gringos Standing
edit: the only thing I saw in Painter Springs that looked worthwhile was that dike route with the old quarter inchers on it
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
Dec 15, 2011 - 03:03pm PT
|
Since I see it on the way home every clear day (i.e. about 200 times a year), something on Patterson Bluffs.
John
|
|
ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
|
|
|
Dec 15, 2011 - 03:13pm PT
|
Painter Springs propper is sometimes confused with "West Sawtooth Canyon" at the base of Notch, as Garrett chose to call it. West Sawtooth seems better to me than Painter, but its not as good as you wish it was. Nonetheless, there are a few pitches that are gems and there are a few roof cracks farther up canyon that may or may not have received an FA. Garrett's new guide is iminent.
As for BOS, choss is a relative term. I've only pulled something off by surprise once. Yamnuska is a good point of reference.
I like the OP's list and way of thinking. South Face of the Marmolata and North Face of Cima Grande are highly desired here, but that's a long list. Something comparable that should be on many such lists is the Naranjo de Bulnes.
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
Dec 15, 2011 - 03:22pm PT
|
Well it's not what I would call an "ultimate climb," but what I really want to do this summer is to hike up Tuttle Creek Canyon and climb the fantastic looking route of Alois Smrz and Miguel Carmona on the North Face of Mt Langley, Rest and be Thankful.
That would float my boat.
10 pitches. 5.10 traditional climbing. 14er. Back country.
|
|
telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
|
|
|
Dec 15, 2011 - 03:31pm PT
|
This is a dome on the east side of the Organ Mts. that I have seen multiple times while visiting my dad in Las Cruces. I have yet to hike in and climb it; hopefully next year!
I want a lot...this is one of many on the Hit List
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Dec 15, 2011 - 03:35pm PT
|
If we are being realistic then maybe thisa bunch of these^^^Definately these. Hopefully this vvvThen if we are dreaming then this
Edit: oh yeah and definately some stuff in the Black Canyon.
|
|
ClimberDave
Trad climber
The LBC, CA
|
|
|
Dec 15, 2011 - 03:51pm PT
|
Always wanted to do Figures on a Landscape at Josh
|
|
the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
|
|
|
Dec 15, 2011 - 04:48pm PT
|
I like the entry in the summit register of Book of Saturdays (Notch Peak):
"I'd rather light a candle than curse your darkness, but it's getting dark and we've got to go. This route was choss galore and super scary."
There were a number of similar entries in the register...
I love sh#tty rock, but this is a serious route, be sure your solid at the grade. No joke.
We took a bunch of chain and other hardware to fix up the rap stations, but they are still a mess, be sure and bring lots of fixins (preferably chain). We pulled 150' of crusty tat off the rap on our way down. The rope ladder in the gully was completely destroyed and was hiked out. Be sure and bring an ascender for that section of fixed rope.
That said, enjoy this special area.
Albert Newman
|
|
Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
|
|
|
Dec 15, 2011 - 05:22pm PT
|
Clyde Minaret
|
|
Murzerker
Social climber
Land of Goats and Tacos
|
|
|
Dec 15, 2011 - 05:30pm PT
|
Three years without touching a pebble, I'd be happy to just be near nice stone. But I'd say Yggdrasil is high on my list.
|
|
Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
|
|
|
Dec 15, 2011 - 05:53pm PT
|
Wow a person's mediocrity is really revealed in this 'wish' list..but I'd like to do the CMC route on Mt. Moran. As much for the canoe approach, high camp experience as anything else.
Also, anything moderate and fun and long in the Dolomites sounds so fun.
|
|
Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2011 - 06:06pm PT
|
Since everyone here is posting up mostly Yosemite/Sierra routes except for a few Black Canyon and Desert Spires types, here's my Yosemite Selection: East Buttress of El Cap, and Royal Arches followed by Crest Jewel. I'm trying to be a realist w/r my decrepit old body, or I'd include the RNWF, but then I'll just "settle" for adding The Good Book and Super Slide to my list for the Valley.
In Colorado--one climb: The Petit Grepon.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!