Daryl Hatten

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Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Apr 16, 2011 - 11:06am PT
Ghost's story reminds me of a hilarious occurrence on that same trip.
Somewhere in all the drinking, partnerships were formed and plans made.
The Split Pillar was the must do pitch to introduce Bill to so we formed up two teams and headed up the wall. I seem to recall Bill roped up with Dave Lane and I with Daryl and we were all BADLY hungover.
Bill floated the right side and the rest of us managed to toil our way up.
As we languished on the top of the Pillar, enjoying the exposure and hating our hangovers our attention was drawn to the progress of Ghost and Big Wally who had formed an unlikely partnership and headed up Uncle Ben's.
They were hidden from our view under the big overhang and had just completed the traverse pitch.
Big Wally hollered loud and clear, "Ready to haul, cut the bags loose!"
Moments later the haul bags came plummeting out from under the overhang, tethered to nothing at all and hurtled, cartwheeling into the forest spewing bivi gear, water bottles and hardware.
We laughed so hard we were practically crying.
From under the overhang, SILENCE.
Later two dejected figures emerged, rapping down to spend the rest of the day gathering up their gear.
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Apr 16, 2011 - 02:05pm PT
Now Tami, I can honestly say Darryl and I did not have carnal relations. We did hook up in camp 4 however and spent the day at arch rock. I did the leading as I remember. Arch Rock was always my home spot to take guests in the Valley, midterm, gripper, new d, leany meany.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Apr 16, 2011 - 02:18pm PT
Moments later the haul bags came plummeting out from under the overhang, tethered to nothing at all

Ah, that does bring back memories.

This is a thread to the memory of Daryl, but since Daryl was up on the Pillar with you, laughing his ass off, I guess the story of Wally and me on Uncle Ben's does fit in.

In the pub the night before, when all the plans were being made and the rest of you were set on hard free climbing, Big Wally looked around and said something along the lines of "Doesn't anyone want to do some aid?" He fancied himself a Yosemite Big Wall Climber (although I later heard that his other nickname was Boris Backinoff, so I don't know how good he actually was), and said he really wasn't interested in free climbing. I'd never climbed Uncle Ben's but it was supposedly pretty easy, and I figured it'd be fun to go up on it with a true Yosemite Wall Master. Two mellow days, no need for an Alpine Start, no scary pitches. Just some good fun.

So the next day we scrambled up to the top of The Flake with a gear for a small wall and a small haul bag with not much in it besides a bit of food and water and two sleeping bags. Wally being the guest and all, I thought I'd offer him the first couple of pitches, since I'd climbed them a dozen times. And that's when it started to get weird...

Those two pitches were a classic standalone free climb called Merci Me. Super mellow cruising up a felsite dike that shot straight up from the top of the flake, eventually ending at a big overhang. Easy climbing, but in an amazing location. Obviously, Wally would want them.

"I don't free climb."

"Yeah, I know, but this isn't hard."

"I don't free climb."

"Yeah, but this isn't the Split Pillar or anything, it's just 5.7 and 5.8 dike hiking. Okay, there's only three bolts per pitch, but it's cake."

"I don't free climb."

How can you be an El Cap hardman and not climb easy 5.8? Hell, Perry had climbed the thing barefoot. I was about to give it one more try, but he cut me off with: "You lead it, or I'm going down."

Not an auspicious beginning. But, okay, maybe he's just weirded out by the lack of pro. So I lead the first pitch and brought him up. Then the second. Once we were tucked up under the big roof, Wally seemed more comfortable. There was a 10c traverse pitch heading left, but since it featured a crack at the back of the overhang, into which he could pound pins, life was good for him again. We'd stuffed the aid gear into the haul bag, tied two ropes to it and left it at the base. I started to set up to haul, but Wally more or less shoved me aside and said this was his department.

Which it was. He had that bag up beside us in about two minutes, and was soon racked up for the short traverse pitch. Which he was across in almost no time.

Since the pitch was short and the bag was now fairly light, we agreed that the best way to haul was to retie the bag into the middle of the haul line, and then he'd tow it across with me kind of belaying it from my end.

Simple, right? So I tied a figure 8 on a bight, clipped a locker into the knot, and then clipped it to the haul loop. Thats when he gave the "Ready to Haul" shout that Perry and Co. heard. So I started to untie the original haul knot and...

...and it suddenly whipped out of my hand and I watched as the bag did the big plummet.

Yup. I'd somehow managed to clip the new knot into the old knot rather than into the haul loop, and when I untied the old not -- Drop Time.

Not much more to tell. I cleaned the pitch, and we headed down. I think we were both pretty relieved to be off a climb with a partner we didn't trust. I mean, who wants to be on a wall with someone who won't free climb 5.7? And who wants to be on a wall with someone who can't clip a rope to the right point?

At least we provided some entertainment.

Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Apr 16, 2011 - 09:35pm PT
I was once bombarded with bread and canned sardines, at the top of the Flake. Robin Barley and I had done a route, and someone up on the Grand dropped a bunch of stuff. Late 1970s, could have been Daryl. The miracle of the loaves and fishes. That was when I was doing my sentence as Robin Barley's apprentice - someday we should have a reunion of everyone who's ever been Robin Barley's Apprentice. Could be a large group - he goes through them. Anyway, he wrote it all up somewhere.

Never been strafed on Seasoned in the Sun - it's in the line of fire for the Northwest Passage area, and rocks regularly come down, especially from the Northwest Passage/Vulcan's Artery junction.
bmacd

Social climber
100% Canadian
Apr 16, 2011 - 10:05pm PT
Robin Barley's Apprentice I'll admit I can check mark that box

Somewhere I wrote about the first time I met Daryl and Hugh B. - they had just hopped a freight train down from Quesnel, I was camped on Pysche ledge - Daryl chased me around my car at night with a running chain saw I was totally terrified. Hugh then sent me into the Chieften to buy a couple cases of beer and a wild night of drinking ensued on Pysche ledge. classic experience for me, a 16 yr old noob at the time
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Apr 16, 2011 - 10:54pm PT
Funny, he used to call those he was teasing "little baby X", and no one squawked. He used it for pretty much everyone at some point. Wish I'd known about the Darly one - it would have been a nice comeback.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Apr 17, 2011 - 01:11am PT
Drinking with Daryl and Paul Kindree, at The Chieftain of course.
Paul convinces these two girls, and they were nice girls, that they should let us take them up Slab Alley. They ask if it's maybe a bit late as it's getting on eight o'clock. No problem says Paul, we're experts. I don't argue and Daryl's getting hammered and up for anything. Off to the Apron we go, Paul and I with the girls and Daryl toting a pool cue he'd liberated.
"What's with the pool cue Daryl?" "Heh, I'm going to fix it in Pineapple Direct". OK.
We flaked our ropes at the base and as Paul headed up Slab Alley, in the fading light, Daryl third classed Pineapple Direct, probably 10a, in his Robbins boots, four beers clipped to his belt, stopping halfway up the flake to jam in the pool cue and disappear up the Apron, cackling, "You guys are light!".
Paul and I ended up finishing the route with the girls, in the dark and bumbled our way back down. Never saw Daryl and didn't get laid 'cause, like I said, they were nice girls.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 17, 2011 - 01:48am PT
By the time I met Daryl, I had known Yerian for a couple of years and he spoke a lot about this Canadian guy named Daryl that smoked Camel non-filters and lived off of Chips Ahoy cookies and lots of beer. I pulled into Camp 4 one summer day for a little camping trip with some non-climbing friends and ran into Dave and Daryl. Those two guys together spelled fun and danger, not necessarily in that order. I hadn't planned on doing much climbing but I brought my gear anyway. Dave and Daryl wanted to do Half Dome and they talked me into it. Actually, they were broke and I was generous and had the killer bud. I scored a couple packs of Camel filters from a friend and gave them to Daryl. He promptly tore off the filters and cracked that winning smile, 'Were in". We drank about 80 beers that night and went for the slab approach. None of us had been up that way so we got lost a couple of times and Daryl even needed a rope at one point to get him out of trouble. I can't remember ever having more fun on a wall than that time. I could probably blather all night about it but you guys know Daryl, you get the picture. Daryl and Yerian feed off of each other's humor and I think my stomach muscles got the most work during that trip.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Apr 17, 2011 - 12:25pm PT
Similar sense of humor by all accounts.

And similar manners. First and only time I met Kit was at some slide show in the Vancouver area given by a visiting climber. I think it was at a church. I was in the foyer talking to Daryl when a young man walked in. He obviously knew Daryl, cuz he came over and they grunted friendly greetings at each other. Then the new guy looked around, pulled an open beer out from under his coat, took the biggest mouthful he could and...

...and spewed it all over Daryl's feet.

Har Har Har. They thought this was the funniest thing they'd seen in years, and walked off together sharing the beer.

I was later told the gentleman in question was Kit.
the goat

climber
north central WA
Apr 17, 2011 - 02:01pm PT
I was a candidate for AA in 76 when Kit and I climbed together and Darryl was crashing in my C4 wall tent. Waaay more beer than a normal person should ever drink. Darryl's "40 beers in a day" challenge still had him waking up at 6:00AM looking for something to climb with no trace of a hangover. Kit's 14" bong was the biggest piece of hardware in our Salathe haul bag....... It was my "fear and loathing" period to be sure.

"do you declare lightweight??"
the goat

climber
north central WA
May 24, 2011 - 02:13am PT
A late night road trip from C4 left Randy's car stuck in a ditch in El Cap meadows. Randy had reasons for not wanting to draw attention to himself so after a brief panic attack we began the process of getting RR's car back to terra firma. After an hour of drinking, smoking and general ineffectiveness, someone, possibly Darryl, came up with the idea of a "jack and stack." This technique involved cranking the bumper jack as high as possible with car attached, then pushing the car off the jack, preferably towards the road we left earlier in the evening.

We made rapid progress using this method and were only a few feet away from asphalt when it was discovered that a few rocks were required to fill a hole necessary to finish the job. Darryl grabbed a nearby chunk, stopped, then got this funny look. "What's wrong ?" I asked. "Shine the light down here" Daryl said pointing at the rock. "Why?" I replied. "Just shine it here?" "OK, but why? You have the rock in your hand for chrissakes, what do you see?" Darryl replied sheepishly, "man, I hate spiders!" I guess it was one of the few things that bothered him.......couldn't stop laughing the rest of the night.

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Oct 5, 2011 - 08:49pm PT
Jim- I did see this thread in my lurker days. Thanks for the bump tho, I will include the link in my thread.

Daryl sounds like an amazing character. Thank you all for sharing your stories, so that all of us who couldn't be there, could get to know him through your eyes.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 5, 2011 - 08:49pm PT
Hey, that's my photo!
daryl_hattens_daughter

climber
saskatchewan, canada
Aug 21, 2012 - 02:32am PT
hey everyone, every once in a while I check back and read through all you halarious/amazing stories. Thank you all for taking the time to type them out to share with all those who did and didnt know him. I would also like to inform those who care to know that he wouldve been a grandpa last september. We had a beautiful little girl. Too bad he never will get to meet her, but one day I will tell her about him. The good and the bad haha
Thanks again for all the stories!!(i will post this on my thread i started as well) Take Care all!!
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Dec 31, 2014 - 09:25am PT
bump
peace for the new year!
BUMP!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Dec 31, 2014 - 11:30am PT
Still one of the best threads ever to grace the taco. I can't believe it took two years to get the first eight posts. Ahhh, the taco of yesteryear eh?

Tami and Perry for the win with their close to the heart posts.

Daryl's memorial was held atop the Chief on a windy, cold September day a few years ago. Daryl died when he fell from a large arbutus tree; he had been offered some cash to rescue a cat. Daryl was 49 when he died.
Daryl's life was hard. Very hard. It was not a life anybody would willingly desire.
He did indeed learn how to climb in jail - at Haney Correctional just east of Vancouver. A "hoods-in-the-woods" type program. Daryl was heroin addicted at age 15. That might have been why he was "snatching purses". But I never heard that story. It was junk that got him landed in jail at such a young age. HE said he hated jail & did not ever want to go back.
He took to climbing like a fish to water and did some very hard walls early on. He, along with three others, did the 2nd ascent of the P.O. Wall. He was "asked to leave America" around 1979 and not return for seven years. He did indeed pass as "Doug Fir" or "Jack Pine" ..the funniest was "Man Zanita"...but , eventually the Yanx caught up with him and he was sent north of 49. It was very very hard on him to be not allowed back to Yosemite.
He did some major hard walls in Squamish. He was also an excellent free climber. Unfortunately his addictions devastated his life & he was largely out of climbing by the mid-80's.
Daryl was THE inspiration for my generation of Squamish climbers. ( we followed Sutton&Burton & Gordie Smaill & crew ). Daryl's sayings : "beer-loads, pipe-loads, any kinda loads at all" among others.....and his memorable trip to Yosemite that ended at Stoney Ck ( 2 km S of where we were all camped ) with gear & campin' equipment scattered across Hwy99 epitomised the wild and hard life that .......none of us wanted to or could have emulated.....but that he really had not much of a choice with.
As we scattered his ashes into the winds that blunt and bitter day, we remembered that most of us had barely expected Daryl to reach 30 nevermind 49. We passed the "talking stick" ( a battered Chouinard hammer that had belonged to Daryl with notches on the shaft for the grade VI's he'd done ) and we told stories to each other ( there were about 35 of us ). Took some pix and wept for the lost life of a gifted athlete who really wasnt given much of a chance to achieve the greatness that , in a different set of life circumstances, would have been his to enjoy.
WBraun

climber
Dec 31, 2014 - 11:56am PT
I remember Bachar hiring Daryl to steal the fixed lines we had on the Nose for some hollywood feature film.

LOL we get to the base that morning and everything is gone, ha ha ha.

"WTF man, where's our sh!t" we say.

We figured it out pretty quick and got our ropes back from Daryl.

We never ever mentioned Daryl's name or Bachar's to the boss.

We were way too scared he'd kill them both.

Too funny ......
Norman Claude

climber
Dec 31, 2014 - 01:18pm PT
Devis are in the details of the last posted photo. That looks like Fred East lighting up. Bill Nickel at the wheel and the fire extinguisher at Daryl's feet to put out the inevitable flame.

Fondest memory was boat racing the canucks, Hatten, Sutton, and Burton at the TM Grill picnic table. The Americans, Fiddler, Keating, and Mayfield were about to lose the race when Mayfield decided to blow his beer and lunch onto the Canadian crew.


A very appreciative crowd loved Peter's lunge for the finish line. Roy I believe sounded the starting gun.

For those of you unfamiliar with boat racing it consisted of drinking beer loads, as relay teams. Very intimidating to be sitting across the table facing down what had to be the finest crew assembled from the great white north.
Zachary Barr

Social climber
Denver, CO
Jan 7, 2016 - 01:54pm PT
Hey All,

This is Zac from Reel Rock / Sender Films. We're making a short film about Will Stanhope and Matt Segal's adventure on the Tom Egan Memorial route in Bugaboos, and I'd love to build out a scene in honor of Daryl, who did the first ascent. Trouble is we'd need some visual media of him to illustrate the stories. Does anyone know how to find old photos or film? Thanks so much for any tips!

Zachary Barr
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 8, 2016 - 07:54am PT
Alpinist ten.

I've been to a few but Daryl's memorial ranks as the most awesome heartfelt yet sad ones I've attended. We all still miss him sadly. At some point, words just do not do him justice. The incomparable.
Messages 41 - 60 of total 70 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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