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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Oct 26, 2011 - 08:03pm PT
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I've always found the nature of Josh rock made placing good natural pro harder than most other places/rock-types.
It can be done, it's just more funky than most places I've placed gear.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Oct 26, 2011 - 09:41pm PT
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climb with a drill,
work at night,
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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Oct 26, 2011 - 11:24pm PT
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i am glad to hear that he was able to get to palm springs right away. white feather is grim.
my thoughts are with them.
does anyone know how his partner is doing? do they have any other family and friends here. my thoughts are with them. it has to be rough to be in a foreign land going through an accident like this.
i see no reason for anyone to name call and judge these two folks. joshua tree is funky and different. i can't imagine navigating the place with english as a second language.
edit:
+ 1 for what gary said.
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Gary
climber
From the City That Dreams
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Oct 26, 2011 - 11:59pm PT
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I'm willing to bet they were noobs leading something they shouldn't have tried
Bet that's never happened to anyone on this forum.
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Oct 27, 2011 - 01:56am PT
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Hope he heals up. Sorry to hear about this.
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kwok
Trad climber
Claremont, CA
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Oct 27, 2011 - 02:07am PT
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I called Desert Regional (Palm Springs) Tue night to see if there is any need for translators (I recruited a Japanese colleague); but the partner does speak English. At that point, Yosuke Komiya was still in the trauma ICU.
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wa5050
Trad climber
texas
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Oct 27, 2011 - 05:08pm PT
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Caveman's bet and attitude toward the situation is very very wrong! While the support is greatly appreciated, it's comments like those that make me want to simply ignore forum comments from people that have no clue at all about the climbers or circumstance. Suffice it to say that they were both experienced with placing gear and with J Tree rock. Amongst all the things that we are dealing with right now, I should not be having to defend their competence on the internet. Also, take note that much of the info here is incorrect before making your assumptions. Lastly while I understand the usefulness of accident investigation, there are more pressing issues at the moment. So to all those who are supporting my friend in his recovery, thanks! To all those who wish to point arrogant/ignorant fingers, good luck with that karma!
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Oct 27, 2011 - 05:18pm PT
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I'm very sorry to hear of your accident. My best wishes to your friend and partner for a good recovery. To you also for your mental recovery
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Douglas Lubes
Trad climber
berkeley, Ca
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Elvis Leg wrote: Can some of you out there with more experience comment on how common it is to zipper pro like that? I feel like I have read about several accidents recently where more than one piece failed.
Aside from a poor placement or poor rock to begin with, I would say the most likely cause for a piece to rip out, or several to zipper, is the failure to put a sling or quick draw on the main unit placed. Even if the route you are doing is dead verticle crack with no facial features, if you place a cam or nut and do not sling the unit the simple movement of your rope through the unit's biner as you move up will easily cause the unit to swivel up, walk up onto it's "toes" or otherwise shift so that an originally bomber placement quickly becomes improperly situated and will commonly fail when shockloaded.
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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more interested in how climber is right now, than how accident happened.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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I would say the most likely cause for a piece to rip out, or several to zipper, is the failure to put a sling or quick draw on the main unit placed.
While failure to use a sling or draw can -- on occasion -- be a contributor to a piece pulling, it is far from the "most likely cause."
Poor placements (whether due to poor rock, few good cracks, or poor skills in placement of gear) are the primary cause for a piece to fail and over-overwhelmingly the cause for a zipper of lead protection and an anchor.
Best wishes to the injured climber(s).
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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A few months or so after Woody died we had a "funerary games" day (It's an ancient Greek rite and Woody was quite the historian).
The goal was to do every Stark FA in the old orange guide book. I think they all got done but one.
Tia (Woody's daughter) and I got on this one. She did what we thought was the first pitch from the topo, but was really a dificult to protect 5.9 or so variation and belayed on the ledge / cave. Even though this route is short enough to do in one long pitch, it wanders enough to make that impractical.
I did the second pitch and it goes right, not straight up as the topo or photos would indicate. The anchor didn't look that great of quality of rock. It was easy but definitely DNF! climbing for quite a while. The gear wasn't high quality until you were about done with the thing. If you went straight up and a bit left as the photo shows, you would be in 10+ terrain with few if any good protection possibilities.
This is like many routes, one that you could do everything right and still get hurt bad. Or, make a route finding error and be set up for disaster.
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Cheldric
Sport climber
Colorado Springs
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Helmets. Helmet for the leader. Helmet for the belayer. Can't say how many times something has come at me from above. Rock. Gear. Leader.... :-/ Belayer should have an independent anchor if they're off the ground at all.
Hope our Japanese friend is healing.
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Mary Moser
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Yes, helmets can make all the difference. I've even banged my head on a roof above me by accident and was glad I was wearing my helmet. Yet so many people do not wear them, which baffles me.
I'm with Zip: How are the injured climbers? Does anyone know?
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Gene
climber
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How are the injured climbers? Does anyone know?
I searched online earlier today and could find nothing. I trust that no news is good news in this case. Wishing him the best.
g
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Mary Moser
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Thanks for checking, Gene. Hopefully they are both making a full recovery.
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nora daddy
Trad climber
Memphis, TN
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Over the years and as I have climbed placing pro, practice a lot close to the ground, in different places, putting weight and learning how to take it out. As you read guidebooks remember that guidebook beta on gear placement is as subjective as ratings. I have read guidebook beta that said no protection for 15 feet and found 4 soild placements in that space. I think working through aid climbing A1 and A2 helps too.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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I had a chat with someone at the NPS, the climber is still in a coma. Apparently the brain swelling has subsided. He may be in a medically induced coma to let his body heal. But, I don't know that for sure.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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he will be ok,
takes time but he is young,
may climb back on the horse, may not.
no biggy either way, it's all good.
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