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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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It would be big fun if Woodward and Honnold would chime in and compare notes on the "hardest Grade VI in the world."
You mean the Dawn Wall?
Kidding, back to HOM,
Actually, I've got some notes for the first few pitches. The first two are killer .10d's, kicked my ass. Then we hit a run-out .10a pitch that was wet and I caught Rubine three times, takin' 50+ whippers. I pulled in handfulls of rope so he wouldn't swing through the belay. But my notes end there.
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jonnywoodward
climber
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Feb 18, 2018 - 07:32pm PT
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Just read through this thread. Brings back some memories. Such a high quality route.
Also saw this quote from Honnold taken from his email (in one of the first page posts) ...
"We rapped from the top of 15, like
it shows on the topo. "
The 165' rappel note at the end of P15 was to show that you could actually bypass a diagonal rap to the Flake in the Sky anchor back when 50m ropes were the longest you could buy, not a mandate to go down before the end.
Too bad. All that effort and he was just one pitch away from doing the 3rd ascent.
jw
PS. Yep, this is clearly still harder than the Dawn. No doubt about it. Neither Caldwell nor Ondra have done it, after all.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Feb 18, 2018 - 10:06pm PT
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Apron bump . . . slip sliding away.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
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Feb 18, 2018 - 11:29pm PT
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All the route is waiting for now is an on sight free-solo. Batter up!
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Feb 19, 2018 - 09:10am PT
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Bump for hard slab history.
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Free soloed Misty Beethoven BITD but I seriously doubt that anyone will take on the rest of Hall of Mirrors on sight!
But you never know...
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
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Free soloing both pitches of "Misty Beethoven" sounds like quite a feat (feet) as it is. One little piece of dirt and you'd be skating back down to the base.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bishop
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Did not Honnold on-site all but the last pitch of Mirrors? And if so, is he not the only one to do so? Which could possibly mean who cares if he didn't do the last pitch which Woodward downgraded to 10d? I'd say the kid's a pretty fair slab climber......
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Wonderful photo, BobG. Really captures the runouts and the relative blankness of the Apron.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I soloed it right after doing it with a rope and felt quite solid. All the rules of climbing don't apply to the Apron and I felt that the fall was reasonably survivable at the time. Coulda' been glacial polish Geek Skiing at its finest!
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
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The 16th pitch was downrated from 5.13a to 5.11c.
Bet those Contacts were very good on smears, but were too floppy for the edges on the upper pitches of the route.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bishop
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Bruce....you are right...hard for me to tell what was where on topo....but 11.c? No problem. Just defending what is a truly clean ascent (?) from being poo pooed because he didn' t climb last pitch......
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
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Stop wherever you feel like it and rap. It's all good.
Think that Alex Honnold climbed the first 9 pitches through the 5.12c crux the first day. Then, went back and re-led the first 9 and continued on up to the top of the 15th the second day. Don't know any of the particulars beyond that. If you can do the Unfinished 9th, everything is feasible after that.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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I always found that hard friction was uncomfortable on the feet.
What does it feel like to do pitch after pitch of continuous extreme friction?
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jonnywoodward
climber
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Steve- that is quite mad. I felt totally sketchy on both those first pitches - seriously.
Regarding soloing the rest you just need a rubber suit and when you slip you go spread-eagle and you'll stop on the next bump.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
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When I heard about Alex Honnold leading the Steel Wall 6th pitch with a missing bolt at the crux, I almost went catatonic. That truly sounds horrendous with a big scoop under the crux. You'd be flying that's for sure. Hats off. Definitely not a nonchalant thing to do.
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