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go-B
climber
Sozo
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? If anyone doesn't put in their own draws on an overhanging face did they lead it free, is free, free?
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Reeotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, AZ
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If they didn't hang on the gear they free climbed it. A no falls toprope ascent is a free ascent. Could it be done in better style? Of course it could!
But, did you see the rack that Haston had around his neck? Ridiculous!
You could always free solo it . . .
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Got to side with Reeotch on this one. If someone can do it in better style, do it and set the standard, but it counts for now.
Clymbing the wyde is a special talent.
Cheers mates!
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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regarding the rating:
Pete and Tom did not claim 5.14d.
Stevie Haston, who has not, and did not climb the thing, "guessed" a rating of 9a. Which means nothing, as he did not climb it. He may have been trying to frighten other people off, as much as anything.
Tom and Pete, who earlier flashed Lucille, a 5.13a, and Trench Warfare, 5.12d, spent 1.5 days on this.
After, they reasoned that Century Crack was considerably harder than either of these. How much harder? They discussed this, after the climb.
They came up with more of a broad range of possibility than a specific rating. Definitely harder than low-to-middle 5.13. Their estimates did NOT range as high as 5.14d.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Nice pinkpoint guys.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Wonder how long it will be until we get a consensus on this one? ; )
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Proud sickness! Looks really cool, I'd be surprised if it doesn't get a repeat soon from some of the wide honesters out there.
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ec
climber
ca
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My comments up thread aside, it was a remarkable effort.
Now, Jaybro will you please set the record straight and climb this thing in this century?
LoL, ec
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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yikes!
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ec
climber
ca
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Awesome! That's the true spirit, IMO!
 ec
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Baggins
Boulder climber
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wow. THIS is climbing
I agree, "chocolate starfish" was a better name
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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I feel Pamela's pain. This one was just waiting for her.
I think the pre placed gear is called a pinkpoint, as said above. Given that so many yo-yo's used to be counted as FA's, and how many trad routes have had the rope pulled between burns, leaving the gear in, it is an FA. I dunno how you could go pull the gear between burns.
Those guys are burly. One of them soloed Trench Warfare. They are laying waste everywhere they are traveling.
What's next for them? I heard they were headed to Zion for Gabriel and then to the Valley for who knows what.
-Herndie (fan of the wide climbers. They rule)
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MH2
climber
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What's next for them?
I heard they had to get back to their jobs as WHO docs in Mauritania but they will train in the basement to build a fusion reactor while continuing to explore Mars.
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go-B
climber
Sozo
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The Boyz can have their Pudding now, Cheers!
They should have called it the, Pony Express!
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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No disrespect meant at all in my post above. These two guys are doing unreal stuff.
Like my opinion even matters.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Looks like you could do it by putting a bunch of Logs accross crack and then dropping cordage from the logs through the roof. Would eliminate the climbing around the gear factor. Racking logs on your harness would definately increase the grade.
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portlandclimber
Trad climber
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Oct 10, 2011 - 01:13pm PT
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Dear Stevie,
how are you? it seems that you forgot to attempt this route on pre-placed gear and are thus feeling a little silly at not getting the first ascent. that's ok, we all make mistakes! however, you did tentatively grade it at 9a! oh dear, you're probably only a number grade out- but like age, grades are just a number eh? .
perhaps next time you should shut your mouth about grades and routes you can't actually climb, and stop compounding the error by spraying about it afterwards. Im sure Tom and Pete are very pleased to have done this route and are having a chuckle at your expense- i know i am.
Lots of love
PC
p.s. i couldnt climb it either- lets have a beer sometime and share stories of routes we cant do
xx
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BillWright
Trad climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Oct 20, 2011 - 08:12am PT
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These two are obviously amazing and their rampage through the hardest offwidths in the US has been inspiring and unprecedented. It has me all reved up to go work 5.10 offwidths! :-)
But, they severely lose credibility and respect with this line here about doing the route with pre-placed gear:
"It's always difficult to say conclusively how different it all is, but I'm certain we've taken no short cut here!"
That is just plain, flat out, dumb. They have taken a HUGE shortcut. The ascent is still super impressive but I'm quite disappointed that their egos have prompted them to write something just so ridiculously dumb. They had seemed so cool up to that point...
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Boz
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Oct 20, 2011 - 11:22am PT
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I'm going to say it, it's going to sound preposterous, but I'm going to do it.
Hard OW isn't hard. We've all been made to believe it is, but it isn't. Sure, you need to train for it differently than you train for other styles of climbing, but that isn't unique.
Someone who has never climbed on slab, only hucking up V8's on the gym's 45*wall, would likely get on a 5.12 slab and be sure that it is 5.14d. We haven't seen a 5.14OW, this isn't it, not by a long shot.
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