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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jan 14, 2008 - 04:25am PT
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Arghhhh!! The Ol' Testiculator!!!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 14, 2008 - 11:16am PT
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The funny thing about the Whillans harness is that it was developed for jugging with large loads and lots of clothing in an expedition setting. Never really designed for rockwork but so few outfits were sewing any harnesses that Chouinard brought them in for general consumption. I can only think of about a half dozen harnesses in the world at that time when swami belts and 2" Colorado rib ticklers. Does give you that classic gentleman stone jockey look though with some nice courduroy knickers!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jan 14, 2008 - 11:27am PT
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Cannon Mountain, 80's.
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climblight
Mountain climber
Northern NV
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Jan 14, 2008 - 11:52am PT
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I confess to still using my Whillans. But only for hanging extra weight off me during a workout.
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Phil_B
Social climber
Hercules, CA
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Jan 14, 2008 - 01:35pm PT
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Oh man, I think I had one of them things way back when. It was more comfortable than my 1" webbing "harness" though. I soon upgraded to one with leg loops and a padded waist though.
Luckily, I never encountered the dreaded pinch. I did have the unpleasant experience of catching a big fall using a hip belay with no shirt on though. Nothing like a rope burn on your waist to keep focused, eh?
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Jan 14, 2008 - 01:43pm PT
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I gave mine away to Deb Slevin in the early 80's.
Certainly haven't missed it.
I bought mine with a load of used gear when I first started climbing in the 70's.
It spent most of it's life with me in a box along side a coil of Goldline (just as useless).
I gave mine away to Deb Slevin in the early 80's.
Certainly haven't missed it.
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erich volkstorf
Trad climber
seattle
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Jan 15, 2008 - 01:35pm PT
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The funny thing about the GPIW photo posted above, the harness is tied in differently than you were supposed to with the Troll Whillans Harness. NEVER, tie in to the crotch strap. The loop there was for a 'biner and the rope went through it to be tied at the waist belt.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Jan 15, 2008 - 02:13pm PT
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Erich,
Sharp eyes, man. Look closely and you'll see that that one doesn't have the tie-in loops either.
WTF?
Mal
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Jan 15, 2008 - 02:19pm PT
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The guy also has his 5 and 6 hexes strung with the same color
cord.
WTF?
just kidding
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 15, 2008 - 03:59pm PT
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Did anyone else sew a harness from 2" seatbelt webbing in the early to mid 1970s? I remember doing it once, I think based on a diagram in Freedom of the Hills. Not sure whether the stitching would have stood up to much, but sure used a lot of heavy thread.
The model was based on a kind that you could tie, using 1" tubular webbing. Both sit harness and chest harness.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 24, 2011 - 11:01pm PT
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If ever a thread deserved a bump....
Btw, that photo of Watusi upthread is Mike on the second ascent of Rectum Roof, a very early hardman route in sandy eggo.
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michael hayes
Trad climber
san francisco, ca.
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Sep 25, 2011 - 01:09am PT
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Mine is hanging above the desk on display at Mission Cliffs in San Francisco. Wearing that thing was motivation not to fall if you are male.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 25, 2011 - 01:14am PT
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Fully accessorized...
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Sep 25, 2011 - 01:28am PT
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Climbed El Cap three or four times with a swami (2 inch) and no leg loops. Fearing for my vitals I threw down for a Whillans "sit harness." Liked the weight shift to my legs but the model back then (solid white) featured a rigid tie-in strap that basically ran flush over the man-post and this was troubling. Switched to leg loops after a trip up Leaning Tower.
JL
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 25, 2011 - 03:02am PT
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I took a 40 footer on a Whillans on the Happy Hooker on Trono once
oh yeah. and i caught that fall from a fully hanging belay. one of the top five scariest moments of my climbing life. you tried to pass off the lead to me and i flat-out refused. so you got back up there and sent it. ballsy. i was freaked. best part of the story is how you finished the last couple of pitches in the dark with your harness totally untied. wh00ps!
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Sep 25, 2011 - 09:05am PT
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I was wearing a Whillans harness when I took the 100 foot fall while soloing the Prow, back in 1970. I was obviously very lucky. I still have that harness somewhere in a box of junk.
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Aeriq
Social climber
Location: It's a MisterE
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Nov 18, 2018 - 10:27am PT
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Harness of Pain/Man-post Bump!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Nov 18, 2018 - 12:59pm PT
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Low hanging fruit- was at risk of of getting squished to make ya' whine
I did the Shield in a Whillans, and I had a numb spot for a month (on my illiac crest) Bj, are you sure that was the numb spot ?
& that it cleared?
was it only a month & not 40 years?
sorry couldn't resit the Low hanging fruit
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