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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 25, 2006 - 12:26am PT
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hmmm
purple shirt
looks to me like gibblewis +20 years but i dont think he was into w##d
The nose belongs perhaps to, KP?
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rmuir
Social climber
Claremont, CA
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Feb 25, 2006 - 04:33am PT
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And Vawter said, "Suddenly he exclaims: 'This is really pleasant!'"
Jesus! I can't believe you were there there to witness that, John... (Or that anyone would even remember something so trivial! [grin])
It must have been later than that, John, since I think that route was The Unchaste, which "Vogel" says was the old Robbins/Sherrick route of 1957, that Tobin and Gib did as an FFA in 1974. Randy gives it a rating of 5.11a and two stars. But, damn, that puppy is worth at least *** in my book!
As a set of free moves, its gotta be one of the BEST set of sequences on that side of the rock. Several of us had just walked down from doing something else, and someone said,"Hey, ya done Unchaste?" (Now, in my head I'm hearing Largo's voice here, faintly, but it may have been Gibo too.) Was Ricky along? Can't remember... And, here I'm guessing again, this was probably an early repeat of the FFA.
At any rate, the line was pretty new and I, for one, hadn't done it--aided or free. So off we go... Absolutely killer day. Clear, cool skies. And, the rock over there is probably the best granite on the planet. Agreed? Somebody led the first pitch--in short order--so whoever it was had worked through the holds before. (Maybe it was Gib. Coulda been Tobin...)
I still remember how totally thrilled I was with the individual moves. A very sweet sequence, with EXACTLY the right little positive holds, in the ONLY places that these holds should be. A real chess game, with a great opening. It's pretty steep, and I could see how it might be easy to mess-up the sequence and make that first pitch quite hard. But, I sure hit it right! And every move just flowed into the next. Checkmate! And, damn, it WAS "really pleasant!" (Everybody else just waltzed it, too.)
...still think that's one of the best sections of rock on the entire South Face!
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Feb 25, 2006 - 11:46am PT
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Off White (Doug White)- I have lots of questions for you, but I don't want to high-jack this thread. I now know the story behind Scumbag Publication (he-he). Thanks. But who if not you, knows better the obscure and almost soon to be lost San Diego climbing history? I posted your page of first ascents from Crags and Boulders of SD Co. in hopes of shaking the bush to see who comes out? Hey it worked! Now BVB, would you have something to do with that :-))? Do you still stay in touch with the gang? What is Mike Paul doing these days?
There are so many connections to San Diego climbers. I remember reading an essay by Galen Rowell, how during a Sierra Club outing when he was young it was Jerry Gallwas that inspired him in a new way - demonstrating and instructing him in the art of free-climbing.
Like BVB I'm sure we've met or at least seen each other on Woodson, or maybe even the bouldering contest at Magnolia Boulders in the late '70s. I believe it was sponsored by Stanley Andrews sporting goods store in San Diego? That was the very first bouldering contest I ever attended. It had a good turn-out. Were you the one to pull that contest together? I missed one of the first bouldering contests ever at Mt. Woodson in the early '70s. Would like to know more about that. Didn't some of these contests bring down any Stonemasters from the LA area since they were some of the first B. contests ever?
Me climbing, with Tim Umstead (my Poway HS bud and most often climbing partner) and Keith Brueckner watching. Tim represents the quintessential climber look of the '70s.
Man those were good times. We even camped/bivied on Woodson a few times bringing the Coleman lantern, Dungeon's and Dragons, and a special herbal tea (I swear I never inhaled honest. Scouts honor. Well there was that . . .) A thousand locks on the bottom gate could not keep us from driving to the top at night and hanging out. All you had to do was push the gate hard and the bar slid easily out. What the hell were all the locks for? Any Woodsonites remember that? But always remember to close the locked gate after you. Wouldn't want anyone to know the secret.
Vogel's description of your book and Mt. Woodson guides:
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Feb 25, 2006 - 02:45pm PT
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Yeah, this isn't really the thread for that discussion, probably the closest any of us ever came to Stonemasterhood was a little reflected glory on our upturned faces. I think you overstate my importance vis-a-vis San Diego, I'm just the guy who had the chutzpah to write a guidebook. As that FA list will attest, I've never been any more than an average climber who just loves climbing, and any claim to fame is just by virute of showing up. Feel free to email me or start another topic.
btw, Werner Landry was the guy behind the bouldering contests, he'd be a great source if you're interested in SD climbing history.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Feb 25, 2006 - 11:27pm PT
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Rescue the Stonemaster IV!
We'll talk San Diego climbing history in another thread sometime hopefully soon. I'm really enjoying the Stonemaster thread . . .
In honor of the Stonemaster bouldering reunion at Rubidoux, this is what Google Earth is for (now everyone is doing remote sensing). If you zoom in really close you can see someone doing something with a goat. Hey, I always say - don't ask, don't tell.
Size OK?
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TC
Social climber
Claremont, CA
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Feb 25, 2006 - 11:49pm PT
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A Stonemaster and apprentice. Rubidoux, lower parking lot.
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Wonder
climber
WA
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Feb 25, 2006 - 11:53pm PT
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i dont see any empty swimming pools. sorry thats what i use goole earth for. yeah stonemasters step up. many more stories out there. lets jog our memory to the max some more.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 26, 2006 - 08:30am PT
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Middle Cathedral, High on Stoner's Highway 81'/82'
Stonemaster Disciple below is: Too Tall=Dave Nielsen
photo RCM
'Could be that JL will tell us a tale of the first ascent after a bit.
Dave Nielsen was part of the second wave, and hailed from an itinerant Idyllwild Crew, all pretty much present by 75'/76' or earlier, so they were a cultural factor and would have some good stories. Nielsen (Too Tall), Fed East, Greg Thill (Igor), Scateboard Roy, Kelly (Troll), Clark Jacobs, Kojac, Franky Lee, Jim Wood and more.
Hey Wonder,
(skateboard roy=punk roy)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 26, 2006 - 08:42am PT
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Stonemaster Acolyte Mari Gingery, circa 81/'82:
Vampire, pulling into the crack after a thin traverse from the mantle.
photo RCM
We were still climbing in Eb's, but here it was already 6 years passed the time when the griddle was really hot at Taquitz.
I believe the first free ascent of The Vampire is chronicled in JL's "Three Little Fishes"?
All movements are followed by a period of consolidation, so in this picture, we were enjoying doing the standard routes freed or set by Stonemasters.
I climbed with Mike & Mari during this time from the end of the 70's through the early 80's and learned a lot about precision and boldness from them. Mike Lechlinski and Mari Gingery could often be seen together, nearly inseparable, swiftly walking toward their next route on their tick list at Suicide. Mari liked to sew; many of us used her chalkbags.
These 2 climbed quite a bit with Long and then Bachar. The day of the hangover going free, probably like so many FA's in Idyllwild in the last years of the Stonemaster push, was really witnessed by a lot of people who were nested in to the scene. You can often hear sounds of parties up on Taquitz really clearly. My first ear shot of Lechlinski was something like: "Hey Largo, you gotta come up here, you can do this thing!!". So some aerial bouldering took place and they freed The Hangover. The sense of a connected group of people, all on different routes, somewhat able to converse between lines, and attending to the final scour of FA's. This was something and you could often hang at lunch rock and give cheer or a watchfull eye on the happenin'.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 26, 2006 - 10:01am PT
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Upthread, Spencer mentioned Wet Dreams
E=Erick Erickson(thanks e)
So this is Erick Erickson on W Dreams.
late 70's photo by bullwinkle: who gave me a stack of extras for a college proj
Eric is a very well rounded and accomplished climber; still going strong. He was at the end of the 70's particularly helpful to some of us who came through in the wake of the Stonemasters, often getting us younger climbers out with him. E would frequently hand me the rack and cast me out on something good and challenging. I'm sure he still does that for younger climbers. What goes around comes around and I'm stoked to see E still at it.
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rmuir
Social climber
Claremont, CA
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Feb 26, 2006 - 10:40am PT
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Folks... Once the goods come off the scanner, yer not done! Use some graphic editing tool--commercial, shareware or freeware--and edit the file before you post it to the Web. Scale the size to something manageable and clean and adjust it. Take some time to identify the players and the route. Give a hint about the photographer, and when the shot was taken.
And how 'bout a new rule? Post a photo, tell a story. Photo of yore; story of yore. Pictures deserve a thousand words.
The Games Climbers Play...
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Feb 26, 2006 - 12:30pm PT
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Couple of loose ends to tie up on stories mentioned before:
The actual Tobin “noose incident” occurred around 1973-4, when a group, including Gramicci and Bachar, was doing a mass ascent of a climb called Damper, a 5.9 crack on Chimney Rock at Hidden Valley in Joshua Tree.. I had forgotten until Bachar’s post that Bachar was the one who led it (probably the last time he ever used a rope on a 5.9 at JT or anyplace else!). I am not sure, but it seems that JB was not well known to the others yet, and the genesis of this stunt may have been that Tobin was trying to have a little joke with the new kid, who was clearly a talent even way back then. Everyone was laughing and having a good time at the base of the route. The belay was set back so JB could not see the top-roped climber. Anyway, Tobin did, in fact, tie a noose around his neck and started climbing. Now this crack is pretty solid jamming and I am sure that Tobin had soloed it a few times before. I seem to recall no fear that Tobin might possibly fall on that crack and thinking to myself, “it’s really no different than soloing.” Tobin kept hamming it up for those on the ground, yelling up to JB, “up rope” and “ keep it tight”, etc, all the time with his trademark grin, from ear to ear. I have to think Tobin would be pleased to know that he got the reaction he wanted from JB, since this is a story still repeated 30+ years later.
Back to the Newport Beach Ski Mart stories in part one. It was also Tobin who won the rope for the first no-hands ascent of the boulder in the parking lot. He did it with a 20-yard sprint start so that he literally “ran” up the boulder to balance on the top.
Rob-I agree about the Unchaste at Tahquitz, a beautiful sequence of moves that Tobin and Gib did first in 1974.
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Feb 26, 2006 - 08:22pm PT
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Seems like an appropriate time for this story. The photo is included for evidence, we’ll call it exhibit “A”
Upon closer examination you will see this climber appears to walking up the rock. Must be third or fourth class at the most you would think. Not so...this the first pitch of three of a classic route on the weeping wall at Suicide Rock. Surprise is its name and Surprise this is the first and maybe the only no hands ascent. The climber is Rick Accomazzo and the route is 5.8, at least on all four’s it is.
We spoke in an earlier thread of Rick’s three hands, in this case he used his head. A thick wool ski cap gave the added cushioning need to support himself as he pushed up one leg at a time. That day this was pretty funny to watch and some of us shook our heads in bewilderment but really this was quite a feat! Pun intended!
MG
PS: if you don’t believe it I can also offer exhibit “R” a photo of the crux.
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WBraun
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2006 - 08:25pm PT
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I don't believe it, he never went to the moon, whoops wrong thread.
Ok cool Mike show exibhit "R"
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 26, 2006 - 09:48pm PT
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Hah, cool! We have classic no-hands route in SoIll called "The Full Moon Footdance". Hard start and with a desperate high step last move. No-hands is a little appreciated business and that's kind of surprising in this day and age of slacking...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 26, 2006 - 09:59pm PT
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Graham,
I got yer' back man, but don't want to blow the sequence before we see exhibit "R"
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 26, 2006 - 10:01pm PT
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Quite an impressive Surprise ascent, RickA.
OK Gramicci, we're still waiting for exhibit "R"...
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 26, 2006 - 10:32pm PT
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How about all those EBs in the pictures? Pretty impressive, some of the things that were originally done in them. Remember how much Fire's revolutionized the scene? I went bouldering in EBs a couple of years after Fire's came out. Damn near broke my shin when I skated off a boulder problem with an undercut start.
Hey, I know... Let's get Powell to break out all those brand new pairs of EBs he still has and we'll go do some routes in them. I'm pretty sure that he has enough pairs for all of us.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 26, 2006 - 10:56pm PT
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BUT,
KP, to sign us out with those H'EBee Gebee gems, will make us pledge that we start wearin' em on opposite feet, after we blow through the inside edge...
'Dude is hip.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Feb 27, 2006 - 01:38am PT
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Life was simpler when all you had to know was what size you wore.
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