Static Peak, July 1: Springtime tries for the Never Summers!

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Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 12:15pm PT
Good point and a question I begged as I was packing prior.
Our packs weighed just under 20 pounds each, with snowshoes inside.

 lightweight snowshoes with titanium claws (from Lisa's snowshoe racing quiver)
 lightweight 62 cm ice axes
 one collapsible ski pole each
 aluminum crampons
 25 m X 11 mm rope
 three cams, three slings, three carabiners.
 one cordalette
 short two inch tubular swami's (single wrap)
 helmet for Lisa
 minimal clothing (fleece vests & thin outer shells, no sweaters)
 64 ounces water each

Nine plus hours on the go.
(snowshoes stashed at the base of the peak for the climb)
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 01:01pm PT
With this coagulation of evaporative clouds thinning and our position about half way across Static Peak’s east ridge,
We decided to take a rest and enjoy the views into Rocky Mountain National Park.



Looking Southeast from our ridge line, which is itself the northern demarcation of the park:



South to Lead Mountain, 12,537' on the Continental Divide along the narrow chain of the Never Summers:




West to Mount Richthofen:



Straight down to the north, Snow Lake, 11,516 feet:



East to the Mummy Range and what I presume to be Hagues Peak, 13,560 feet:

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
After a short respite, back to the hustle:





Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 01:19pm PT



Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 01:22pm PT


Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 01:35pm PT


Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 01:41pm PT
Relaxing a bit on the descending rubble, American Lakes below, with a view to Iron Mtn, 12,030':



Relaxing a bit more just above Snow Lake, Nokhu Crags & just the top of Grand Central Couloir above:



After picking up the snow shoes & hastily slapping them on the back of the packs, a steeper slope to negotiate before strapping back in:

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 01:56pm PT
Thunder Pass, 11,331', the gateway to RMNP, caught in a halo of sweet light:

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 02:02pm PT
A lunch stop on dry soil at American Lakes just before one o’clock,
(From crampons at 8:45 to the end of the 3rd class at 11:10, the climbing/scrambling took ~ 2.5 hrs)



A last view under lovely skies up into the American Lakes, The Electrode, Mount Richthofen, Static Peak:


Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 02:08pm PT
Lisa, “smelling the barn” …



Beers by three o’clock, after 9+ hrs on the go:



Cornice on Cameron Pass seen during the drive home:

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 02:14pm PT
The NEXT DAY, training for the Pike’s Peak ascent race,
Early in the morning Lisa ran the 13 mile trail up Pike’s Peak … over 7000’ and 13 miles ...

‘Couple days ago she won a “training race” … here’s a video interview:
http://www.pikespeaksports.us/video/interview-with-lisa-goldsmith
TwistedCrank

climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
Jul 11, 2011 - 02:23pm PT
You guys might have had more fun if your equipment were made of galvanized steel, your clothes were cotton and you carried bricks in your packs.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 02:29pm PT
True, may have ... always room for improvement !!!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Jul 12, 2011 - 04:26pm PT
Really really great stuff Roy!

I'll have to go back and give it a second longer read away from the office, but it's always so great to have your voice on here.

Cheers!
Tom
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jul 12, 2011 - 04:38pm PT
25 m X 11 mm rope

I might have a 25m x 8.8mm that I could pass along, lighten your load for the next trip by a few grams. So long as you bring back more pictures.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jul 12, 2011 - 04:41pm PT
I blinked and missed yesterday's load of pictures, just going back through them now.

Obviously you don't follow my annoying practice of posting pics just one, two or three at a time.
BrianH

Trad climber
santa fe
Jul 12, 2011 - 04:42pm PT
That's some real life mountain climbing!!!

TFPU!
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jul 12, 2011 - 05:09pm PT
It occurs to me that if you'd scrambled up the rock ridge, you could glissade back down the snow slope. There must be a good reason you didn't do it that way.

That rock looks better than I'd have guessed for the Never Summers.
clode

Trad climber
portland, or
Jul 12, 2011 - 06:02pm PT
Now that's what I call seriously fun mountaineering! Potentially sketchy weather, loose, slippery footing, class 5 roped climbing, in boots! I'm really "lichen" it Tar-Baby! As ekat coined the abbreviation, TFPU!
spyork

Social climber
A prison of my own creation
Jul 12, 2011 - 08:04pm PT
Cool stuff! Looks like more fun than I am having!

Steve
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