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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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.... my bad!
That BD full set of cams I had for you, Bummer, looks like you are on the Naughty List
common marty take me off ur bad boy list!
marty if you could write only a few sentences then maybe ESL students like me could understand that this is about selling gear and not some religous rant. pictures explain better than words.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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It's ok to have your head in the clouds as long as your feet are planted firmly on the ground. There is no big hurry to get rid of your worldly possessions. You really don't need to feel inadequate in the face of God. Give things time to settle and patience is a very useful virtue. I wish you the best Marty, for you have accepted a big responsibility. Live Upfull.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2011 - 02:26am PT
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Time for more fun!
Let's see how much you know about climbing history!
These 7 items shown below each have a simple question to be answered.
I will post the answers this Sunday night.
Unknown #1: What is the name of this cam monster and why was it made?
Unknown #2: The three carabiners below are Royal Robbins/Salewa, Salewa West Germany, and Otto Wiedemann.
What do all three of these carabiners have in common besides the visual obvious?
Unknown #3: What is this thing? What was it made for?
The carabiner is included to show the size.
Unknown #4: This item has been seen by tens of thousands of climbers. What is this historical climbing item?
Unknown #5: What year was this chalk bag created?
Unknown #6: The superstar climbers were feeling a little weak that year and I was able to win the Gold Medal.
What year is this Medal from?
Unknown #7: Who created this set of piton and rap anchor?
Good luck friends!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Unknown #2: All of the carabiners are made from hollow aluminum rod.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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unknown #5
I have a gear sling with that label...I'm sayin '76 or '77.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I bought my dolt chalkbag like that, new, in the yosemite mtn shop , spring '77. I'm guess ing it was made about then.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2011 - 11:54am PT
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The first time I met Dean Potter was just after he speed solo'd a route on Half Dome. In the photo I had, Dean's hair was shaved off and he was zipping through an area of the route known as the Zig Zags. The photo gave me the impression that he was just as tall as me, a few hairs above 5' 10." I searched and searched the trade show hoping that I could find him to shake his hand and land his signature. At some of these shows there is a lot of people running around in the isles and at times, you have to creatively get through them to get to one place or another. I kept bumping into this shaggy-haired dude that was wearing his name tag backwards. I must have bumped into him a dozen times or more as I searched for Dean. Yes you guessed it, once it dawned on me, that guy was Dean. I felt like such a heel.
Dean's hair had grown back and was quite long. I could not believe how tall he is as he towered over me. He smiled at me with a look in his eyes like saying "you again" when I asked for his signature and shook his hand. I know that many people look at Dean as bad boy who likes breaking the rules, but to me he was always really warm and awesome when we saw each other at the many trade shows following. Dean has brought climbing, slackening, soloing, climb-base jumping to a new level. His spiritual center is stronger that any other climber I have met.
Steph Davis is a different story. Steph was easy to identify at the shows, I mean, how could you miss her? Steph is really beautiful. She always hung out with the other girls at the 5.10 booth whom she is sponsored with. At first Steph shook my hand and gave me her signature, but for years following she insisted on me leaving her alone. I believe on one of my photos of her, she wrote "This is absolutely the last one." Steph is an amazing climber especially when she is climbing cracks. Some of the photos of her really give me goosebumps as the exposure is so extreme, she has no rope, but yet she looks so peaceful and calm. Eventually she warmed up to me and will sign anything I have of her.
I remember one show where Steph brought along her dog named Fletcher. Fletch is a sweet dog which seemed kinda out of place probably thinking "I hope somebody does not step on me." The show was quite crowded but Steph did a great job guarding Fletch from injury. The day was winding down and it was the usual "Beer-30" time where free beer flowed at many of the booths. At this time my collecting friend Robert hastily works every booth across the entire show collecting beer glasses from the manufacturers. Robert would find me later to show me all of his beer glass trophies, at the same time forgot to even have a beer for himself. I however saw my opportunity to be with Fletch.
I grabbed a Five Ten sticker, peeled half of the back off, and hung out with Fletch using the sticker to pet the dog. The sticker wadded up with hair which I was hoping that it did. Fletch was loving the attention and I received many dog kisses from it. I remember stopping with the petting for a second, looked up at Dean where he and Steph were sharing a look of WTF, and then both would stare down at me. Steph went back to her conversation with the girls and I exclaimed to Dean "You just don't know," "You just don't know." Dean said back to me "Yes I do, Yes I do." The dog hair was placed into the museum.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Pate get a calendar, man. vedauwoo is precambrain, way before mammoths,, the wyde abides....
btw isn't #1 a yates? used one like it on the fa of Lucille, '88, still on my rack. Perhaps made for excalibur? used it there too...
and yeah those biners are hollow stock.
don' know about that other shit
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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#1 Yates Big Dude, as to the why it was made.... capitalism.
#3 Giant Air Voyager for helo slingloads.
#4 Ankh on some hippy that is a famous climber with an acid induced shirt.
#7 Raffi Bedyain (sp) ???
Side note: That dog hair story is really kinda creeping me out.....
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2011 - 12:40pm PT
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Klaus, You have been dangling that chrome plated Dolt hanger "carrot" in front of me for over a decade. I know your treasure means so much to you that why do you even offer to sell it? Put it on your key chain and show your prize to the world and never sell it! I am taking a guess that you are the amazing Eric Kohl. Eric years ago you sent me a double gear sling that you signed and can be seen on the front cover of Climbing Magazine #162. Your climbing accomplishments are incredible! In this climbing issue it shows pictures of you hooking up the Porcelain wall which is a wall that has no features. I am surprised that there are even edges for you to hook on. Absolutely terrifying!!! I told myself that I will never climb with this guy since it would only prove that his balls are ten times bigger than mine. You would leave me crying in the fetal position for weeks from the fear I would have encountered. Your double gear sling is going to the Yosemite Museum soon, where it belongs.
I do not remember the shape of your chrome plated Dolt hanger, but Jim Bridwell came through for me back in 2000. You are totally awesome Eric, and please be safe out there on your adventures.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Marty, I wish you'd write a book. You have some great stories to tell and your enthusiasm comes through so strongly. Love it!!!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2011 - 01:04pm PT
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I was thumbing through a Climbing Magazine years ago and came across this advertisement for a new company called the ASCA, which stands for the American Safe Climbing Association. This was a new company who's mission was to replace old mangled bolt hangers on the massive walls in Yosemite National Park. At that time my biggest passion was collecting different bolt hangers, since I did not have money to buy sets of cams for my collection. Bolt hangers were relatively cheap and I assumed that there were not many different hangers manufactured in the world. This could be an easy monopoly to achieve. A piece of metal with two holes punched through it, that is bent in half. I called the ASCA and a kid named Chris McNamara answered the phone. I asked if there was any way I could obtain the trash hangers he was pulling off of the routes while he was replacing the new bolts.
Chris said no problem, he was throwing them out anyways. When he told me that, I almost fell over in shock. There were not many bolt hanger manufacturers from 1940 - 1975, so basically everything was homemade. Homemade like using bed frames to create the hangers out of, and basically if it was a piece of metal that two holes could be drill into it, it was made into a hanger. By todays standards yes these look like junk, but to me these hangers were created by the climbing Gods themselves. Chris and I decided to make a deal and I sent him boxes of new hangers and he sent me the removed trash hangers back in return. I instructed him to keep track of were the hangers came from by stapling a paper to each hanger and also send me a paper stating it was authentic. Chris developed the letterhead for the ASCA paperwork stating each hangers authenticity. Thank you Chris again for going through all of this work for me.
During this time I finished writing my guidebook to Queen Creek Canyon in Superior Arizona. Climbing Magazine did a book review on my Queen Creek Guidebook and totally slammed it stating that it did not make sense that I wrote such a "tome" to a nothing area with just 30' routes. Within a few days the editors at Climbing Magazine were swamped by hundreds of letters slamming the magazine on what they had wrote. It was obvious that somebody that had never been to Queen Creek Canyon wrote the negative review. Queen Creek Canyon was also was the home of Jim Waugh's annual Phoenix Bouldering Contest which drew over 600 competitors, and 1000+ spectators. In apology, the editors decided to dedicate the entire editorial section in the following magazine to the Queen Creek Guidebook. Four complete magazine pages were all about my guidebook. Climbing Magazine went one step further and stopped reviewing all guidebooks due to the problem. For years following, the only book reviews were for only fiction and non-fiction climbing books.
Chris McNamara was becoming a big name and was really tearing up the Yosemite scene. He became front cover magazine news and was becoming so fast at aid climbing, I am sure he was on Hans Florine's heels. Chris started writing his first book "Yosemite Big Walls, supertopo first edition" which he came to me for advice on how to create it. When the book came out it was amazing!!! His route topos, photos, pitch charts, etc were all futuristic compared to the older Yosemite guides. What an amazing body of information he put into that book. Chris you are awesome! He sent me a free copy of his book when it was completed so I could check it out. When I flipped to the acknowledgment page, I was blown away. My name was in the top four mentioned people that he thanked, just under Tom Frost's name. Then below that was 20 or so names of all super famous Yosemite climbers that also helped him on his book. I am still honored to this day for what he had done for me.
Chris continued on his quest tearing up the climbing scene everywhere. Eventually we fell distant to each other as his fame grew and he turned the ASCA over to Greg Barnes, which I believe is still carrying on the rebolting mission to this day. Since then as well, the number of different hangers I have has topped 1100. No two hangers of the 1100 are the same. All different by shape, size, bolt hole size differences, and colors.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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so Marty, do you have old issues of Arizona Climber? Been looking for the Prescott Pump issue.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2011 - 01:58pm PT
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Royal Robbins is a major famous climber and it took a while for me to figure out how to approach him. I saw him many times at the trade shows, but he was always very busy and I did not want to take up any of his time. Royal Robbins had a company at the time named Royal Robbins Clothing. Finally I took a deep breath and warmly approached him. He looked at me and said sorry he was busy. Understandable since at the Outdoor Retailers Show, companies show off their new products to sell, and work on getting pre-season commitments out of the retailers who carry their products. This is an important show for manufacturers and I was just a fly-by climber just trying to say hello. I stopped by his booth the next day just to discover he had already left for home. I was left in disappointment but the game was on!
Six months later was the show again, and I had only four days to connect with Royal. The trade shows each are only four days long. I didn't want to pester him on the first day, nor did I want him to escape the show without me shaking his hand. I decided that the third day was going to be my approach. During the first two days of the show I made sure I went by his booth to make sure that he was actually at the show. He was there! Yes!!! Finally on the third day I saw a moment to sneak into his booth for my greeting. He said hello to me, asked why I was there and gave me a handshake and then started to walk away.
I was devastated that he was walking away from me and was being kinda rude. I however understand the importance of the trade show, and I was the one that was hindering him from getting his job done. But this time I exclaimed "Royal just one more thing." I put together a climbing gear photo foldout to show him, just to see if there was any way I could obtain even one piece of his gear for my museum. I assumed my foldout photo display would create curiosity to him, but it didn't. He threw it to the side and said "that's nice," and walked away. I felt as though my girlfriend just told me she was breaking up with me as I stood there in my puddle of dismay.
Six months later was the next show and I found a great photo of Royal to get his signature on. The game is on again! This time he was warmer to me as he signed the photo, smiled, and once again swooshed me out of his booth. Wow! But this time there was no puddle, since I was getting used to the "dumped" feeling. My friends said that maybe his ego is so huge that I was just the little person. I disagreed and stated "He just does not see me." So I changed my plan of attack.
Ok here we go again. Six months later was the next show, he is present at the show, let's get him on the third day, etc. My technique was dialed in but this time I noticed that Liz his wife was at the show also. Hmmmmm…… I just so happened to have this photo with me, of Liz and Royal standing on top of Half Dome. My answer was now clear.
I waited until "Beer-30" and saw Royal over by the La Sportiva booth talking to many friends. Liz stood behind him like a fly on the wall and nobody was talking to her, but ten or so of Royals friends were talking to him. I approached Liz, introduced myself, and had a conversation with her like she had just come across a girlfriend that she had not seen in many years. We were laughing loudly and were having fun, as Royal would occasionally look over his shoulder to see what was going on.
Eventually I asked for HER signature which she was blown away when asked. This really made her day! I exclaimed to her on how great it was to meet her and to share gut busting laughs with her at the show, then I started walking away with my back to Royal. I waked 15', turned around and noticed Royal was staring at me in my eyes. I exclaimed to Royal in front of his friends that "I guess while I am here I could get your signature also." Royal's shoulders shrieked as he saw who I was. Since that moment Royal knows who I am and we have shared many laughs together at the shows.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2011 - 01:20pm PT
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People, I have noticed that many posts on this Marty forum have been removed. Please note that on all of my posts on every forum, I have not removed any of my words, or changed what I had to say. Please note paragraph 11 in the Marty story states, "If everybody would just talk out of their heart, everybody else would hear their message. Many peoples words have no weight to them so they are just shooting off at the mouth. In Arizona it only takes 20 minutes to purchase a gun. I can get that 9mm, or 44 mag, or the Judge hand gun Sweet!, that shotgun or anything that is on the store shelf at the sportsman's store in just 20 minutes. That seems scary to some, right?
Not to me because I find guns are fun to play with. Shooting at people is not what I like to do. I do not think that people understand that the words they are using on these forums represent the bullets that are fired from the gun, not the gun itself. So your words that you are leaving continue to scar others for life over giving inspiration. A very wise man once told me that if you are very mad at somebody and feel the need to send them a vicious letter, wait 24 hours before you mail it. If you notice, 99% of the time the letter does not get mailed, and you tear it up saying, "What was I thinking!" This wise man was my dad. These forums are fun but so many people only wait two seconds to "mail" their letter, over really thinking about what they are doing.
I do not mind if you wish to shoot your words at me on this Marty thread. I welcome it! I mentioned that I am wearing a suit of armor that cannot be penetrated. In the end, yourself and THOUSANDS of others will see that you were only scarring yourself with your own words. In the future you will look back 10 years at the posts you were sending and they will all still be there reflecting the true person that YOU are. Your new girlfriend will see them, your family, your parents, your new boss at work, your grown up kids, your close friends……..everybody!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2011 - 01:31pm PT
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So Far - HISTORY LESSON VOL 1
Unknown #1 - Yes Jaybro / Russ, Yates Big Dude but this is a bigger Dude. Still the question on why was the bigger one made?
Unknown #2 - Mighty Hiker nails the correct answer and in fast time too, nice!
Unknown #3 - Russ, I will have to check into this further to see if your answer is correct. I was told it was for something else similar. Mfg by who?
Unknown #4 - Russ -Yes yes but from where and who.
Unknown #5 - Wade I will say your answer is correct at 1977. Mine 1978. Good Job!
Unknown #6 - No guesses?
Unknown #7 - Not Raffi. But who?
THE ANSWERS WILL BE REVEALED TONIGHT (SUNDAY) AFTER DINNER, AZ TIME.
Photos for these questions are shown on the pages previous of this post.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jul 10, 2011 - 06:28pm PT
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hey marty give ur gear to these future rock stud's.
they climb at stoney point!
cheers!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2011 - 09:02pm PT
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Pyro, The Stoney Point smiles you guys have are worth more than my entire collection. You guys are awesome! I am feeling that Pyro actually has a bigger heart than his "boaring" (which should be "boring") first posts showed of him. With you keeping your integrity of leaving your posts here, you are doing a good job of redeeming yourself back to the "Nice List." Hmmm...
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2011 - 10:00pm PT
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HISTORY LESSON VOL 1 - ANSWERS
Unknown #1 - Question: What is the name of this Cam monster and why was it made?
Answer: Jaybro is first with the Yates, and Russ mentions Big Dude first, but this is only half of the answer. These Yates Big Dude monster cams were created for Greenpeace for Ingrid Gordon, and used to scale up cracks on a building in Canada in assisting to hang protest banners. John Yates created only 6 of these monster cams and they are classified as size #9 compared to his Big Dudes #6, and #7. Circa 1990s. Ingrid made a point of giving me a huge hug at every climbing show. She is an awesome person! Ingrid has been in jail more times that anybody I know because she believes in what she is doing is right for the environment.
Unknown #2 - Question: What do these three carabiners below have in common besides the obvious?
Answer: Mighty Hiker nails the answer in a quick time, nice! If you cut them in half you will see that the carabiners are hollow. The manufacturers wanted to create lightweight but yet strong carabiners so they created a hollow carabiner by using aluminum hollow rod stock. I am not sure if there are any hollow carabiners manufactured today? Not exactly sure on the circa, but late 1960s / early 1970s? I know that the SMC rappel ring is still mfgd out of hollow aluminum stock.
Unknown #3 - Question: What is this thing? What was it made for?
Answer: guesses yes, and Russ gets close on the answer. Created by Yates, which I think should be named an "extreamer." Russ mentions for Helo slingloads where I was told they were used to tie down airplanes on Navy aircraft carriers while transporting the planes to the lower decks. Originally the Navy was using chains on the elevator tie downs but the "non-giving" chains were causing cracks on the planes fuselages as the boat swayed to and fro on the ocean swells. The Yates huge screamer pulls apart when jerked over its breaking limit. Circa 2007ish.
I will see John in three weeks and make this answer solid for yous that are curious.
Unknown #4 - Question: What is this historical climbing item that has been seen by tens of thousands of climbers?
Answer: guesses yes and Russ is onto the right idea. Russ says: some famous hippie wearing acid induced shirt. But this answer is not solid enough for me so I am giving it one more round. But lets look at it from further back. Hint: Historical Yosemite item.
Unknown #5 - Question: What year was this chalk bag created?
Answer: I am going to give this one to Wade Icey at circa 1977. I was told 1978 but that is besides the point. What I wanted to show is that William "Dolt "Feuerer committed suicide around Christmas 1971. Pre Dolt symbol had a piton design to it, and after beginning 1972 Dolt label was changed to Capital Letters shown here. Doltpatch from Tom Taber, DOLT Patch from Greg Grant. Greg created climbing cartoons in some of the early Climbing magazines.
Unknown #6 - Question: What year is this medal from? No winner, no guesses, hmmm… This was an easy answer to Google.
Answer: Year 1995.
The first X Games was named the "Extreme Games" and was in year 1995. From June 24 through July 1, the Extreme Games was held in Newport, Providence and Middletown, R.I., and Mount Snow, VT. Athletes competed in 27 events in nine sport categories. 198,000 spectators attended the first Extreme Games. After enthusiastic response from the athletes, organizers, spectators and sponsors, ESPN decides to hold the event the following year, instead of every two years as originally announced. In October, it is announced that Rhode Island would be the location for the 1996 event.
In January 1996 the event name Extreme Games officially changes to the "X Games." The primary reasons for the change are to allow easier translation to international audiences and better branding opportunities. The medals shown are samples which were donated to me by Jim Waugh (1995) and Sandy Draus (1996). You can see that there is no strap holder loop attached to the medals for them to be hung.
Unknown #7 - Question: Who made this piton and rappel hanger? guesses yes but incorrect.
Answer: Doug Black 1966.
Doug black was an Arizona resident and he and Bill Forrest (Forrest Mountaineering) created the Arizona Mountaineering Club (AMC) in 1964. The club still exists today. The interesting clue to this question was the stainless steel rings and welded area on the angle piton. Not many manufacturers welded the top of their angles together. This was a tough question, but many of Doug Blacks hangers still can bee seen today in the mountains throughout Arizona.
We still have Unknown Question #4 alive for the history gurus to figure out. Hint again: Yosemite historical item. Seen by tens of thousands of climbers, and seen still today!
Next weekend I will post HISTORY LESSON VOL 2. Don't forget to check it out.
Good answers to all who played.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Jul 10, 2011 - 10:06pm PT
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#4: FA of Sea of Dreams talisman, worn by Bridwell, with that same shirt in the pic from Yosemite Climber. (where the team was purportedly on acid for the photo)
edit: do you have that F'n shirt?????
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