Do the Wide with Pride

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Cracko

Trad climber

Quartz Hill, California

Nov 12, 2008 - 10:38pm PT

I've avoided reading these "wide" posts for too long. I have now seen the light, and understand the "metaphysical" significance of partaking in the "wide". Take me to the promised land Russ and Jaybro !!!!!

Cracko

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Dec 22, 2011 - 12:35am PT

Where the taco started for me, style bumparoony!

scuffy b

climber

heading slowly NNW

Dec 22, 2011 - 12:34pm PT

I can't see the picture in the first post. Is it that heinous stack
at a roof with chalk flyin through the air?

scuffy b

climber

heading slowly NNW

Dec 22, 2011 - 10:22pm PT

Thanks, I guess my memory was playing tricks about the chalk flyin thru
the air.

scuffy b

climber

heading slowly NNW

Dec 22, 2011 - 10:26pm PT

Hey, I couldn't find anything about this climb over at Wide Fetish.
Is it a climb I should see?

Russ Walling

Gym climber

Poofter's Froth, Wyoming

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2011 - 11:18pm PT

It is a boulder problem out by the Saturn Boulder....

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Dec 1, 2013 - 01:16pm PT

back from a Valley day-trip yesterday, we made a point of getting on Generator Crack, Gary, Bela and I, first time for Bela I think...

I thought I hadn't done it in a long time, and I was right, last time, according to my log, was June 14, 2009... I have been recovering from a back problem which my non-OW climbing friends all attribute to OW climbing, to the derisive denials of my OW climbing friends...

...I had a sort of epiphany lately, about the role of Generator Crack and Valley OW climbing... the old dudes all say get on it and be able to climb it with ease, left-side in, right-side in, straight in, any and all ways.

Now the neophyte following this advise blindly might think it prepares them for all the Valley OW, and they would be very wrong, and find it out quickly, as the specifics of Generator Crack are very different from the other 5.10 OW cracks.

However, if they have truly followed the program, and this is where the epiphany comes from, they would have become conditioned, physically, in a way that helps on most of the 5.10 and 5.11 Valley OW problems.

I came to this contemplating how to train for OW at home... and realized that all the exercises I thought up pointed back to getting up Generator Crack. I'll probably do many of these exercises at home, but getting on Generator Crack as much as possible will greatly accelerate the OW conditioning.

As for technique, there are a lot of suggestions scattered throughout this forum over the years, and probably all of it is good, and all of it should be done. As with anything, start with what works for you, and when you get that down, expand out and explore the other techniques. You're doing your body good by taking it easy at first and upping the intensity as you become proficient.

Like your mother insisted: "practice, practice, practice" thanks Mom, how come you're always right?

[oh, it went well, from the block at the bottom, put a hand stack high, right foot on the outside of the crack, and "calf/foot locked" the left high, released the stacks and went higher, lifted the right foot higher, reset the "calf/foot lock" on the left higher... repeated to the left knee lock and changed to a right leg heal-toe... keep going until running out of gas but that was pretty high. Flayed a bit when it got wider, but Gary reminded me to use foot-stacks, which were the ticket around the flake and up to the top... at least for me on that day... looks like I will be doing left-side in until everything gets strong enough to switch... that was me yesterday, I will probably be different in the future]

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Dec 1, 2013 - 02:23pm PT

" get in generator crack, do it right side in. do it left side in. down climb it. solo, night and day, till your 'get' it!"
Sez this guy, day before yesterday

Trad is Rad

Trad climber

San Luis Obispo California

Dec 1, 2013 - 09:15pm PT

i think we should have a wide thread on the main page at all times

Mimi

climber

Dec 1, 2013 - 09:24pm PT

For those who haven't read the start of this thread regarding taping policy.

>By the way Russ, what in gods name is that white stuff on the fingers? Looks like AID to me! >

Yep.... tape is aid, if:
You are taping for size.
You are taping to protect UNDAMAGED skin.
You are taping for a better grip.

Tape is not aid, if:
You are taping your pant leg down.
You are taping a detached tendon.
You are taping anything that a doctor would call an evulsion.
You are taping a head wound.
You are hiding a protruding bone from your squeamish partner.

Russ

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Feb 15, 2015 - 05:34pm PT

Stylee bump....
Ymmv 💩

nature

climber

Boulder, CO

Feb 15, 2015 - 05:54pm PT

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Feb 15, 2015 - 06:11pm PT

Laying down hell, Grug can climb the Wyde in his sleep!
And I don't think its the tape......

Phantom X

Trad climber

Honeycomb Hideout

Feb 15, 2015 - 06:24pm PT

That does look like some hard core lying down! How would you rate that mattress?

BLUEBLOCR

Social climber

joshua tree

Feb 15, 2015 - 06:29pm PT

dude look at the direction the rope and gear are hanging

okie

Trad climber

Feb 15, 2015 - 06:59pm PT

Looks like a corpse wedged in a crevice. Poor stiff has a lot of good booty on his gear sling though...

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Feb 15, 2015 - 07:01pm PT

That thing is a roof! It's a climb called Bell crack, now rated 5.11b. Back in '79, when there was less of a consensus, it was rated, 5.10. One of my first "5.10" leads💩!

Here it is w/o Crug
In the back there, on the left...
Unfortunately for Grug it rained, "Like a tall cow pissing on a flat rock," ( reference, anyone?) thwarting His efforts.
So don't be dissing Grug!
But be radiant, like Aya!