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cowpoke
climber
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Jun 29, 2011 - 11:31am PT
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YeeHa! great share
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 29, 2011 - 12:02pm PT
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ghost -whoa dude, vasques.....
Yes, but with the front half resoled with C4. (I kept the raised and lugged heel).
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Jun 29, 2011 - 12:50pm PT
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Climate Change skeptics? [ot] might as well bump
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 29, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
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Sorry if my comment was out of line. Like I said, good work on that.
I've been involved in similar situations at my local crags, and my approach has always been to get it done with as little visibility as possible. It's not that we're exactly hiding from anyone, but my instinct is to be discreet.
Carry on...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 29, 2011 - 05:08pm PT
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Anyway, so long as we do this stuff responsibly there dosn't seem to be too much opposition
And consider the alternative: how responsible is it to leave a death block poised on a popular route?
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jewedlaw
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jun 29, 2011 - 05:33pm PT
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I thought we stopped calling them "Death Blocks" and were referring to them as Ralstones now.
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bmacd
Social climber
100% Canadian
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Jun 29, 2011 - 05:35pm PT
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BC Parks doesn't have enough budget to sustain an internet connection let alone direct policy. It's clear the actions of JFrimer and his pals are well guided and pro-active. Government intervention is totally unnecessary.
I'm sure they will be taking care of the split pillar tree problem under the cover of darkness to preempt detachment. Trundling the block Anders is suggesting down the Apron onto the highway would be utterly foolish.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 29, 2011 - 05:56pm PT
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I did not for a moment suggest trundling the block, of which I posted a photo. I was merely pointing out that in terms of climber and public safety at Squamish, there are some obvious things to deal with. It might be logistically complicated to take care of them, and involve some bureaucracy, but that's neither here nor there. The tree at the base of the Split Pillar is very far from such a threat.
Anyone removing that tree without thorough prior investigation and consultation, and the consent of BC Parks, should be charged under the Park Act. A few climbers at Squamish seem heedless that the Chief is in a public park, and that although BC Parks has limited resources to manage the park (unfortunately), and so largely leaves climbers to self-manage, there are limits to behaviours. They're playing with fire.
When a real threat to the park arises, e.g. the gondola proposal of 2003, climbers need all the credibility we can get. (Which issue has, in effect, reappeared.) Unless we self-police, a few climbers behaving as though they own the place, and aren't accountable to anyone, can cause a lot of problems for the rest of us.
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bmacd
Social climber
100% Canadian
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Jun 29, 2011 - 07:12pm PT
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lol - Well if credibility is an issue then Anders shouldn't you and Peder be up retro-installing the south summit "via ferata" in that case? Might look good on your resume when BC parks starts hiring again, then you can be an official spokesperson.
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JFrimer
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2011 - 07:54pm PT
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Since you seem to have an inside scoop, Anders, what exactly is Parks' real stance on tree removal in the Parks for the purpose of keeping routes safe and climbable?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jun 29, 2011 - 08:09pm PT
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Beacon Rock's south face sits directly above one of the busier sections of rail traffic on the west coast and so trundling anything significant there is a big deal. We have to contact the park rangers, they contact the railroad, who then arranges a train stoppage and an onsite work crew in case anything hits the tracks. Rangers and volunteers block and man all possible access to the south face, the rail guys show up to observe, we get positioned on the face, everyone has radios, and once we get the word from the railroad guys that the trains are stopped the clock starts ticking.
We trundle and even if nothing hits the tracks the track managers don't trust their own onsite crew's word for it and instead send a computerized machine down the track to measure everything. Once that corroborates the onsite crew's report the track is reopened.
However, the Washington State Department of Transportation made a similar temporary closure deal with the railroad last year for a day which due to WDOT's fault ended up stretching for three days and backing up scheduling all the way to the east coast so now the railroad is making it very hard for us to get their cooperation if we needed to do another trundle.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 29, 2011 - 08:13pm PT
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Thanks, Joseph.
I don't have any inside scoop with regard to Parks, but have worked with them on a variety of things over many years, and so perhaps a bit of a feeling for what they'll tolerate, and won't. I doubt they'd have any problem with the Birds of Prey project, and putting on my legal hat for a moment, there's a pretty good defence of necessity/public safety. Some other activities over the last few years - no names - seem pretty close to the edge, whether in terms of flouting the Park Act, endangering the public, or both. Parks has historically allowed climbers a fairly free rein, but with enough provocation that seems likely to change.
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bmacd
Social climber
100% Canadian
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Jun 29, 2011 - 08:38pm PT
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I'm available to hump loads up to top of south gully for the via ferata retro-fit starting tommorrow Anders.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 30, 2011 - 12:58am PT
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Anyone touches the periwinkle (or whatever it is) will be sleeping with the fishes. A lovely little rock garden.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 30, 2011 - 02:02am PT
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^^^^^^
What he said. Saxifragile. Yeah, that's it.
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Jun 30, 2011 - 10:37am PT
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Nice Trundle!!!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 30, 2011 - 10:16pm PT
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Bruce: mea culpa, mea culpa! Although the amount of vegetation that I've removed from climbs at Squamish has been modest compared to most, and the routes I've cleaned/restored have generally proven to be popular.
Perhaps I've learned from what I and others have done in the past, and I now try to minimize the cleaning I do - unlike some I might name.
I left several respectable shrubs in Penny Lane, knowing that they might disappear, but hoping otherwise. Likewise I left a nice tree belay at the end of the fourth pitch of Slab Alley, which provides welcome shade and a nice stance. Plus a good crack for those wanting other anchors. Trauma counsellors will be standing by, for commercial climbers and other pathetic souls who can't figure out a belay that doesn't involve bolts. Call 1-800-382-5633.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 30, 2011 - 11:32pm PT
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For all transgressions real or imagined, I confess that I pulled an innocent (though soft) plant in the vastness of the WOODS and wiped with satisfaction.
Damn! This gave me a major inspiration! Remember that thread that was up over the last few days about the video of those weird dudes that were apologizing to all women "on behalf of their gender"? [I think it was "How not to get laid"]
I think we should make a video of Anders apologizing to all plants on behalf of his species. F*#kin' hell if that wouldn't be a fine thing to do.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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You guys are just full of good ideas. When will the "flogging with devil's club" event be occurring?
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