Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
wayne burleson
climber
Amherst, MA
|
|
There has always been something magical about Crucifix!
Dare I say, more so, than her siblings A-man and R-rum...
|
|
David Wilson
climber
CA
|
|
holy sh#t Dan - that's an epic picture ! was that from the lip of the big roof ? let's go up there and do that thing. did the NEB a few days ago and looked over. awesome rollers in the orange rock
|
|
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
|
|
count me in David, i'm into wyde again, and go'in to work on wyde all winter. yes i took the shot from the lip of that big ass roof, kinda exciting up there!
|
|
wayne burleson
climber
Amherst, MA
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2012 - 02:58pm PT
|
Bump for the awesome photo 3 posts upthread...
|
|
Studly
Trad climber
WA
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2012 - 10:55pm PT
|
Thats an amazing photo. What a crack.
|
|
msiddens
Trad climber
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2012 - 12:00am PT
|
Dan-- looks amAzing.
Marc
|
|
snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2012 - 12:04am PT
|
SICK photo on one of my favorite TRs ever.
That climb is the real deal
|
|
snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2012 - 01:17pm PT
|
It's true, there are several hundred more feet to the ground below the bottom of the frame.... that would be a sweet shot for sure!
|
|
nature
climber
Boulder, CO
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
|
When you find yourself surrounded by a half dozen naked men in their underwear and all you can think about is pizza and wanting to soak in a vat of Neosporin, it's time to take inventory of all the life choices that led you to this.
time for contemplation i suppose...
|
|
Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
|
|
Shino [tahoe523] left this forum? She had a lot of passion and enthusiasm
|
|
snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
|
|
this tr definitely inspired my jaunt up the crucifix- hope shino is still lurking
|
|
Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
|
|
for me inspiration was The Warbler FA story:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=391916&msg=726280#msg726280
and and this Dan's photo of P3 above in this tread
my favorite passage from there:
A couple of days later he woke me up early and off we went. I don't know who was carrying what, all I remember is when we got to the base and dumped out the gear I was shocked again. "Is there another rope?" I asked? Underneath the looming 1500 ft unclimbed wall of Higher Rock he replied "No, why?". There was one fuzzed out red and blue 150 ft Edelrid 9 mil that looked like it was salvaged from a food hang in camp. "It's fine. What's it gonna do, break?"
No pins, no bolts, no hammer, no food, 1 quart of water. Doubles on some hexes, not all, nothing bigger than a 10 hex and a few stoppers.
I was 18 years old, an upstart, and he was the wise Valley Master. I assumed this was the way it was done, and questioned no more.
#10 BD Hex: 55.6/75.2 mm, 2.19/2.96 in
#3 BD Camalot: 50.7-87.9 mm, 2.00-3.46 in
So they had one or two pieces about blue camelot size which is not walkable. 150-160 feet long pitch , I remember to use BD 2#4, 3#3 and 2#2
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
Who first freed the roof pitch at the start of Crucifix?
I think it was Peter Mayfield who first freed the last pitch of Crucifix.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
I read the FA story again - gold!
I believe Mark and Max freed the upper aid bits, but maybe Peter Mayfield did it before them.
Peter Croft freed the start.
Shino mostly posts on facebook these days.
kingtut and I got to shout up to Shino and my son Skyler on A-man when we hiked up North Dome gully in October.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
That's right ... Croft.
That little roof at the start is horrendous ......
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
Wow, that does sound pretty worthy.
Here are a couple of views of some guys climbing the first pitch,
as seen from the traverse on the NE Buttress.
I think I see where some of those blocks were on the FA!
|
|
shylock
Social climber
mb
|
|
Gosh, why is this route so intimidating!? even after getting on it, yikees
this variation looks fun. i remember looking down and left from the Crucifix P1 belay, face is definitely featured and cool looking.
Does anyone know what's up with the continuation of the crucifix crack? like if you don't do the big traverse on the 3rd pitch. Sloan says it's 5.11. He also says it's how you access the Gravity Ceiling but that's pretty obviously not the case.
So much cool stuff on that wall.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
The continuation crack looks nice, and some people climb a bit of it when they are not sure when to traverse right.
But it leads to the huge roof, well right of the free version of Gravity Ceiling.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!