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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 17, 2011 - 06:40am PT
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I'm in Iran with some internet time. Coz, I have never been interested in 8000 meter peaks- different strokes for different folks. Jan, your comment about things people do to get them thru the night is great but I don't think it applies here. Using such tactics to set speed records seems to be about recognition and not personal satisfaction, just my take.
edit: Since there is nothing intrinsically valuable about summiting a mountain, the style in which you do so becomes all that more meaningfull.
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Mister_Roborto
Trad climber
Queensland
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Jun 17, 2011 - 10:21am PT
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Hi Mr. Donini:
I'm a couple weeks new to climbing and have a couple of your stunning FA's on my dream list. Given your awesome climbs, I am much interested to learn a little more about your goodself - I note you state 'horses for courses' when it comes to 8000 metre peaks, nonetheless, have you attempted a few 8000 metre peaks?
I agree that style is everything - I sprayed on the net that I'd followed/climbed up Ruper in Eldo Canyon; but truth is I fell on top rope when heading across a traverse, pendulumed from that 'fall' and then gained holds on easier terrain. Climbing 'achievments' since doing Ruper last week have shown me the intrinisic value of going back to climb Ruper honest.
Hope to see you in El Chalten next Jan/Feb and probably ice climbing in Ouray late this year. Bummer you are not in Boulder as we've plans to climb the 1st Flat Iron by torch and near full moon tonight.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 17, 2011 - 10:36am PT
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Does a sprinter take personal satisfaction from breaking the WR in the 100 meter dash while secretly taking steroids or is he more interested in fame and fortune?
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Mister_Roborto
Trad climber
Queensland
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Jun 17, 2011 - 10:46am PT
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Mr. Donini:
The answer to your question is.....both.
If everyone else in the 100m final is doping, then no big deal to some. That said, all who are in the final are likely faster even when running clean then the rest in the aspiring fray.
I was a little confused when reading the amazing Steve House's book where he mentioned rapping off the stuff/(junk?) left behind by others on Nanga. Ethics/style seems a blurred line I've trouble understanding.
I've learnt the benefit of following in others footsteps. Indeed, just the other days we moved far quicker on Dreamweaver, Marthas, Dragons Tail and Halletts because we'd the (previous days) steps of others to follow. Should I return to do those routes again? - only for the intrinsic value of enjoying the trip as my intent was honest and the steps followed the obvious route to safety and success.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 17, 2011 - 10:54am PT
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Ethics/style are often blurred but some things are clearer than others. Using oxygen and having OTHERS fix ropes for your ascent shouldn't cause ethical judgement problems for too many people.
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