Donini says "hard to fall out of a chimney" proof otherwise?

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 72 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
May 19, 2011 - 02:26pm PT
Hey Couchmaster I remember that route. Can't quite remember the name though. "Big Bill's Tight Squeeze"? ;-)

Jaybro, Give me a call when the weather breaks. I'd love to take a walk on the wide side with you guys....I think.

I fell out of this chimney.

mike m

Trad climber
black hills
May 19, 2011 - 06:03pm PT
Scruffy B, you are probably right, but in the Needles there literally has to be thousands of Chimneys, and most of the routes that are long almost always seem to have them. I seem to do everything wrong on these and take everything but the kitchen sink, but they seem more enjoyable when you are quite sure you will not die if you should fall out. They all have tons of crystals that stick out and you would be crazy not to use every one you can becouse they will scrape you raw if you do not. Anyway I like them.
scuffy b

climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
May 19, 2011 - 06:22pm PT
Actually, Mike,
I was just describing how I managed to fall out of a chimney last year,
didn't mean to be preachy or anything.
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
May 19, 2011 - 06:24pm PT
How long did it take for your tailbone to feel better scuffy?
The Lisa

Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
May 19, 2011 - 06:31pm PT
This is The Crevice at the Mohonk Preserve. The tourist route goes along the bottom with ladders to climb up at the end. However there is often such a backlog it is easy to faceclimb/stem your way out - to everyone's horror.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 19, 2011 - 06:35pm PT
The Crevice!
lot's of memories of stemming over the heads of the tourists to get down from climbs, always suspected that it may have been a factor in the reduced access to Sky Top...

scuffy b

climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
May 19, 2011 - 06:40pm PT
Not as long as yours, Nutjob!
No, really, all I can say is that I banged it up July 4th weekend
and I was climbing chimneys a month later.
I don't think the tailbone was as big a factor as apathy.

I hope you heal fast and well.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
Oakland -> SLT
May 19, 2011 - 06:43pm PT
You could drop straight to the bottom of this Pinnacles chimney.
But it's got a good soft cushioning surface to land on, ages of some sort of $hit that feels like your walking on woodchips or something.

This guy is a great partner for anyone in the Santa Cruz area, btw.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
May 19, 2011 - 07:05pm PT
Scruffy not taken as preachy, brobably need to go back and read the thread. But your still climbing chimneys right.All three of these have some great chimneying on them.Haven't done this one yet but it looks kind of evil I think it is called Terrorcractal
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
May 19, 2011 - 07:14pm PT
About 10 years ago I pulled one of those Scuffy maneuvers on p3 of Reeds (just below the start of the crux) and earned a headfirst/backwards dive out of the thing when a hold broke, ending up face to face with my belayer.

Moral of the story: Don't try to bypass 5.7 chimney moves via 5.11 crimping on potato chip edges. I've got a slide somewhere of the cam lobe bruises the fall put on my back when I slammed the wall with the rack between me and the rock.

Here's a fun one in Josh you could fall out of:

scuffy b

climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
May 19, 2011 - 07:19pm PT
Ouch and ouch again.

Mike, you're right that I'm still climbing them, but I'm not necessarily
climbing them right.

Actually, for me a true squeeze chimney is desperately hard, much worse
than off width. About a number and a half harder.
The Lisa

Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
May 19, 2011 - 07:20pm PT
Ha ha, Ed, I never thought of climbing DOWN the thing.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 19, 2011 - 07:22pm PT
Nice shoes!

Will do, The Larry! Going out tomorrow...
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
May 19, 2011 - 09:45pm PT
Getting up them is climbing them right as far as I am concerned.
Al_T.Tude

Trad climber
Monterey, CA
May 26, 2011 - 05:46pm PT
In "The Hitchiker's Guide To The Galaxy", Douglas Adams describes a technique for flying: "Throw your body at the ground...and miss."

Perhaps this technique could be adapted to prevent falling out of chimneys.
wayne burleson

climber
Amherst, MA (currently in Lutry, CH)
May 26, 2011 - 06:21pm PT
The Crevice at Mohonk was arguably my first rock climb.

I was 6 and at a church camp in High Falls from which you
could see the Mohonk Tower.
That was summer of 1966, and they sent lots of kids from NYC
out into the country because they were afraid of racial riots
breaking out like Watts in LA the previous summer...

I think all chimneys in the Gunks are just loaded with horizontals.
Has anyone done a sort of convoluted cave/chimney 5.2 thing on the
right side of Skytop. One of my first lead climbs. I was way
scared, but falling out wasn't going to happen.
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
May 26, 2011 - 06:39pm PT
The Crevice at Mohonk

The Lemon Squeeze

The ladders count as aid, I would think...
The Lisa

Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
May 26, 2011 - 11:52pm PT
Nah, you do not have to use the ladders, thereby avoiding 'aiding' the exit (or the downclimb). It does narrow at the top so chimneying is feasible.
I need to start practising holding chimney poses in my office building's elevator....
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
May 27, 2011 - 12:33am PT
lock. load. thrutch. repeat.
melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
May 27, 2011 - 11:33am PT
if you must venture into chimneys ,,take lyn ramono,,,shorts,,no knee pads,,and not a scrape,,,proof technique helps,,
Messages 41 - 60 of total 72 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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