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John Morton
climber
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May 14, 2011 - 01:42pm PT
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John-Appears Lloyd Price is on 4 of those ascents in 66 so perhaps he's the culprit responsible for the similarity? Don't know, I am just the messenger.
And a fine messenger you are, too.
Loyd's ascents were in June-Aug., and that handwriting ends at Sept. 21. Imagine someone sitting on Coonyard copying out all those entries (from the damaged originals?). Or taking it home and returning with it later ...
One thing that suggests Loyd is that his named is spelled correctly.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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May 14, 2011 - 08:24pm PT
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Joe: Read this yesterday and forgot to post my appreciation. I just read & bumped the original ascent article, and find it awesome that you can still repeat that route.
Cool!
Dude!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 15, 2011 - 09:44pm PT
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Bump for bookends...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 15, 2011 - 10:44pm PT
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Fine set of sealegs on that pirate! Harrrrrrr! Me Bucko...
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 16, 2011 - 12:10am PT
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Too F*#KING cool!!! What a wonderful inspiring post! Thanks Guido.
Luke and I actually got benighted after doing Coonyard and I left a knot in the rope on the rappell of the crux(?) pitch. Luke being awesome re-led the pitch and we continued down. We're there in Nov 69, or was it March '70?
You know I may have photos of that trip. Of course Luke led the hardest pitches.
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tom Carter
Social climber
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May 16, 2011 - 01:22am PT
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Dr Woo
Nice work. Thank you very much.
TC
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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May 16, 2011 - 01:28am PT
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This living history is wonderful, Joe.
And thanks for putting up an awesome route! I made one valiant attempt, took some big sliders, and look forward to a day when I can sit on that pinnacle.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 17, 2011 - 01:03am PT
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bump
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 12, 2011 - 11:49am PT
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Hard-soled Bump!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jun 12, 2011 - 04:28pm PT
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Great thread! Thanks Guido and All.
Zander
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Bump for Apron adventure stories...
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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A really fine climb. Did it circa '77.
On my To Repeat list. Might try to continue to the Oasis......or not.
Anytime I get high on the Apron is a delight (not necessarily a delight getting there!)
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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It's weird, but there is a certain "vogue" that some climbs or types of climbs seem to fit into, depending on the generation.
Each gen "re-discovers" what a previous gen "discovered."
These repeat ascents then engender new routes or variations on old routes.
This has happened on The Apron.
And they all end up in a register, which means registers are EXTREMELY IMPORTANT HISTORICAL ITEMS/DOCSUMENTS. So how do we treat them? We use our worst possible handwriting, but it's hard when the wind is blowing, hun! It's so funny/ironic.
I noticed my friends Cowboy Larry and Andy Cox were there, both before me. My turn came just a bit later. I felt right at home up there, once I got there. Never took a fall. Never saw a fall. Naturally-superieur mouse tech-an-eek, I guess. I don't recall a register, though.
My partners up there were many: Tim Harison, Cowboy, the Rev, two of our HS classmates, one a tweet=bus driver at the time, the other an out-of shape PG&E lineman (Throwpie knows), not to mention brother-in-law Ike, Patrick Stewart, Dick Ellsworth, Adrian Rosenthal, and even the dweebish and maligned David Yohalum (DY was a good friction climber, BTW.)
Ike and I made it a single pitch from the Oasis in just a few hours and had to race a storm out of Little Yo back down to the ground. We got soaked as soon as we touched down--fastest raps on record or off, I'm prettty sure.
Not kidding about the memories. There are many. And it's a thinking man's game, too. You really need to see where you want to go next, then find the key.
Thanks a bunch, Guido. I owe you for these memories. See you at Facelift and I'll try to even the score.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jun 10, 2018 - 09:47pm PT
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Bump for meeting Calderwood today and hearing how much he also enjoyed getting back together for this climb!
Maybe I'll have to try this route now.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jun 11, 2018 - 06:43am PT
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I climbed Coonyard in the early 80's with Dennis Kemp.
Dennis provided much of the material for Meyer's yellow book Apron topo so knew where much of the fixed gear was.
Dennis got excited when I found a fixed pin that he didn't know about so had to take out his topo and add it in.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Jun 11, 2018 - 07:33am PT
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Thanks for this TR!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 11, 2018 - 07:39am PT
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Sweet...fun read! Missed this the first time around.
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Jun 11, 2018 - 07:55am PT
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Bridwell-
“Too much slab climbing and you’ll grow tits..”
Or something to that effect.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 11, 2018 - 07:59am PT
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That’s what he said and a few years later she said...” it goes, boys.”
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