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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Feb 10, 2019 - 05:52pm PT
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Looking down from the 2nd pitch on Grand Central North Buttress Cathedral Peak
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Feb 10, 2019 - 10:52pm PT
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While you might find yourself looking at a slider, it's nice to not worry about falling onto lonely and loose Leeper hanger, hanging off a bent 1/4" button head.
I might have missed this thread the first time around. But replacing those bolts is going to take the adventure climbing out of the apron.
I have vague nightmares of wandering around somewhere between Monday morning slab and the oasis. Trying to locate/decide what crappy bolt to belay off of.
If that rusty pin, earlier pic, on Goodrich right is the one I think it is, I have more specific nightmares of being 100 feet runout on it when I didn't realize the bolted line was off to the right. And that was when I wasn't a very confident 5.9 slab climber.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 11, 2019 - 03:00am PT
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Merced R. canyon, from near the Generator.
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bbbeans
Trad climber
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Feb 12, 2019 - 04:53am PT
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Above Photo: Goodrich Pinnacle, right.
"First ascent: Royal Robbins with his wife, liz and T.M. Herbert, 1964. "The problems are challenging, but never harrowing. And, although one must risk a long fall in two places, it's not a death-defying matter. The result of a slip in these places would be 30 to 50 feet of rolling and bouncing down smooth granite slabs" - R.R. "
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Feb 12, 2019 - 09:01am PT
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Scanned slide from the pre-digital archive, Table of Contents, Sept 1988
Cornucopia, Photo by Eric Collins
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Feb 12, 2019 - 10:16am PT
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That picture of Cornucopia reminds me that yes, Darrington is noteworthy for the slab aficionado.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Feb 12, 2019 - 10:19am PT
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Oh, and here's a shot of slab mecca
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Feb 12, 2019 - 08:16pm PT
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perswig
climber
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Feb 13, 2019 - 03:16am PT
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Dale
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 13, 2019 - 05:02am PT
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TY, Throwpie.
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sheepdog
Trad climber
just over the hill
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Feb 13, 2019 - 06:52am PT
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from the wayback machine
tuolumne_tradster finishing Crest Jewell
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 13, 2019 - 06:59am PT
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^^^^Most excellent!
--Wild Stallions
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Feb 13, 2019 - 09:15am PT
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Thanks for posting that Sheepdog...we had a lot of fun that day.
Here's a scanned slide of you on the Apron from the pre-digital archive. Not sure if this is Sailin' Shoes or Ochre Fields? We were with Eric...he would know what route this is...
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 13, 2019 - 09:37am PT
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A thread from "Our Wee Powder," a slabby if ever there was one.
Love ya, Powder Girl!
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2633812&msg=2633812#msg2633812
couchmaster
climber
Jun 3, 2015 - 06:52am PT
Thanks Clint and Roger for replacing all those bolts on Lucifers! Coonyead to the Oasis has 2 bolt anchors each pitch now Karl. Fun route.
It's been years since I've done Lucifers, although it use to be a Glacier point fav getting there via the Point Beyond/Angels Approach way and I did it all the time. It was my most liked long Apron route. Only tried it to the Oasis once though, a stupidity which was never repeated. The old Meyers book listed a pitch someplace above Lucifers as "5.7", but it seemed harder than any of the others below which were clocking 5.9. (Meyers also listed the fist pitch of Reg NW face of half dome as 5.9, and it seemed hard until the next guide came out and called it 5.11) Coupled with being @ 60-80' from the anchor with no pro between you. Partner and I were both getting up hard 5.10 slabs at the time, and although we both tried it neither of us had the stones to pull the moves. Neither of us thought we were on route, but now I'm not so sure. It was along downclimb for us both, and we had unwisely chosen to climb that day with only one rope as we'd "heard" from a friend confident there was a new single rope rap from the Oasis. It was pretty knarley sh#t getting back to dirt without 2 ropes on hand, and rapping off single 1/4" bolts is not something I suggest for anyone.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 13, 2019 - 10:21am PT
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Here's one from Joshua Tree bitd. Anyone I.D. the route?
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bob
climber
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Feb 13, 2019 - 10:54am PT
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^^^^^^^ Sexy Sade ^^^^^^ to try and answer Ksolem
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 13, 2019 - 12:03pm PT
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Bob nails it.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Feb 13, 2019 - 01:18pm PT
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Rad thread. Nice shots Bob.
Here's a contribution or two.
Tollhouse Rock near Fresno. My favorite crag on earth.
And another. From my days living in the South.
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crackedribs
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Feb 24, 2019 - 08:49am PT
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