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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Jan 27, 2006 - 12:25am PT
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Werner, now I have Alzheimer’s on that east butt climb. I beleive you and dale did the 4th ascent?
Ron, stranger than fiction this must be the missing link I thought for sure Tobin had done it right after us (5th). I believe I may have a shot of that very rope tied off at the top of that pitch. That was definitely the season for that climb. Never though that rope was rigged for reverse engineering only. Wow! So the story could be true. That could have been quite a ripper. You probably would have hear the screams all the way to Utah. Twice
Hear the route goes clean now, yet people still want to pound sawed off angles into it.
I still remember putting 9 rurps in a row in the grove amonst the fixed and of the 35 porter put in.
What a place!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jan 27, 2006 - 12:44am PT
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I fixed the first cabled rurps on it and then showed the remainder to Yvon. His subsequent cables were thinner though.
Didn't heard any screams, but then I was in Colorado and thats a bit farther...
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2006 - 12:44am PT
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I didn't get around to doing the Shield till 1977 but even then--and moreso now--I can't imagine just slapping the jugs on some phantom rope and start chugging over the Roof. I swear Tobin is the only person who would ever consider doing that.
JL
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Jan 27, 2006 - 12:54am PT
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Na, John wasn’t freaked he had already done trip the season before. Could have been me being the third man out one of us had to free jumar. I thought I’d have a little fun and I kicked myself off the wall for a little extra swing! OMG when I finial stopped swinging I took this shot of Kauk laughing at me.
Point of the photo here. There is the infamous rope tied off just as Werner described it
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 27, 2006 - 12:56am PT
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Hey Mike where the phuck is Bachar now? I know for sure he's lurking, common John, post up!
:-)
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jan 27, 2006 - 12:59am PT
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Surprised you got the photo.
That's how Trevor found the rope (but not how he left it.)
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jan 27, 2006 - 01:02am PT
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I suspect he'll be in Utah this weekend.
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Jan 27, 2006 - 01:05am PT
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Yeah, Werner its the good ole Outdoor retailer show this weekend. going myself tomorrow.
bye
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 27, 2006 - 01:06am PT
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Say hi to all the bros for me, Mike
And about that Sheild, it don't matter if one did the first ascent or the last. That's one hell of a wild place to hang around for a while.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Jan 27, 2006 - 07:57am PT
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Joe, that's a no-brainer. It's EEEEEEEEEEEErickson. He was also the guy holding the rope when Tobin led The Edge. I think it left an impression on the poor boy..LOL
It seems there were only a few guys who have been tagged with the original moniker of Stonemaster. Since the only qualification was to lead Valhala at Suicide, there were many folks who would be considered Stonemasters but not part of that inner clique. But back then (I arrived on the scene in 76) there were quite a few folks who had led it by then and didn't seem to be part of that inner clique. At least that's my take on it. So, lets see who was in that first tier group.
1st tier Stonemaster roll call, and you guys please correct me if I am wrong or omitted anyone
John Long
Mike Graham
Ricky Accomazzo
Tobin Sorenson
Richard Harrison
Jim Wilson
John Bachar
Gib Lewis
Bill Antel
Rob Muir
Erik Eriksson
Once these guys started showing up at in the Valley, the name sort of became synonymous with both the No Cal guys and So Cal guys.
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mastadon
Trad climber
Seattle
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Jan 27, 2006 - 09:54am PT
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Werner,
The beauty of Alzheimers is that you're always making new friends.
I think it might have been Love Supreme or something like that. It's to the right of the trail up to the Phobos area. We went up there and tried it long before anyone had ever successfully done it. We were both scared s###less of the nasty swing.
It's funny, the stuff you remember and don't remember. I remember, with total clarity, seemingly insignificant scenes from 30+ years ago in Yosemite and/or C4. Smells, sounds-just about anything can trigger these memories. Makes you wonder, as you wander through life, whether there are certain moments in your life of total clarity that you won't realize till later. Insignificant moments, like just walking down a trail, where maybe you're close to the surface of something.
Then there are whole seasons that are blank. Maybe we were doing too many controlled substances those months.
Gramicci-don't get me wrong. I liked Dale and did stuff with him but he, at times, REALLY pissed me off.
The trench, in those days as it is now, was a real soap opera. There were always little dramas, and dramas within dramas. You'd think you could escape it by getting off the deck but that only presented different dramas. Camp 4 was a teeming, festering drama. It used to make me laugh. Now I can walk through there and be totally detached, but I can still recognize the current kings and queens of drama.
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Jan 27, 2006 - 10:28am PT
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Pat, As Largo put it up top. It is really a frame of mind. I couldn’t count that high to list all that aspire to maintain the style and the respect for the rock as much we enjoyed to. Erik is a poster child of the ideal, with his ability and soft spoken word.
Mastadon, I hear you. Dale could really Piss me off too but I really love picking him up every time I see him.
Werner, I’ll catch up with everyone for you out in Utah.
Signing off
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2006 - 10:40am PT
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Jobee--
I still remember that night at MC's house and the big turkey and also a lot of beer and of course all the gorgeous girls. One of the greatest things about the Stonemasters was the way they interacted with girls, or rather, how the girls stepped in and sorted things out and kept the balance. It would have been boring and hopeless without the girls, who were heros to put up with us waving turkey legs around and taking up all the space. Most all the Stonemasters were pretty rustic and unformed back in the day, but all were kind people in their own way.
JL
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mastadon
Trad climber
Seattle
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Jan 27, 2006 - 10:43am PT
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Thanks Donnie!
So much for anonymity.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Jan 27, 2006 - 10:45am PT
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I agree Mike, it's much more a tude or lifestyle so many of us adopted back then. I think it's pretty cool you guys set a cultural standard that was aped by monkeys around the world.
I think it's kind of amazing what Erik is still doing..at his age:) So many of the old dads are beached now, but E is still going strong. The dude is as whippet thin (largoism alert) as he was 30 years ago.
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mastadon
Trad climber
Seattle
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Jan 27, 2006 - 11:08am PT
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Donny,
This must be what it's like to be outed.
I feel like I've been violated!
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Ditch Trad
Trad climber
CA
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Jan 27, 2006 - 11:21am PT
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Whippet thin means 2 bucks and a nickel, right. Or did i drop a dime?
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Jan 27, 2006 - 12:19pm PT
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I’m back for a minute just to say
MastaDON you have been outed!
Don Harder , how are you!
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 27, 2006 - 12:19pm PT
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Bad bad Donny, revealing the mastadon :-)
But you're right Don, Dale did piss people off at times, even he knew it. Bridwell blew him off on that Zenith deal because Dale wouldn't let Schmitz in on the "Team", because Dale thought he wouldn't get enough leads, (3 is to many). Dale started the second ascent while Bridwell and Schmitz were still on the wall doing the FA. I think he got Deaglman for that.
Don you still runing some Ski area in Tahoe?
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Jobee
Social climber
El Portal
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Jan 27, 2006 - 12:23pm PT
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JL and the gang:
Wow! Great stuff Thanks a bunch for this thread it goes deep. 1978 I arrived in the Valley. Still here..sort of and it's impossible to tell you what an influence/force all of the "Stone Masters" had and still have on me. There was this core of ferocity, something of a "Power". It was prevalent and it was real.
I am moved.
Met Yabo in 78, it was like meeting some kind of entity, every encounter like standing infront of the Burning Bush.
Billy in 80's, he had it too underneath that soft demeanor a "Wildfire".
John...honestly you are nothing but "Great" be glad you've got it as well. Certainly character is not something one could call an imposition.
To every one on this thread...a hearty thanks..you've made a diffence in my life.
For it is not the arrival, it is the journey that matters. -montaigne
More tales please,
jow
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