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Brandon-
climber
Done With Tobacco
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Highwaystar. OS. Holla!!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Stonegroove, 1978, on hexes and stoppers. It was burly and very exciting and similar to our crack climbing back home in Leavenworth.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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After Six. Started up around 1:00, IIRC, and finished after dark. Enough after dark that even the bar was closed, and we went to sleep hungry. I had no idea that we got schooled. I just thought it probably always went more or less like that.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
Oakland
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It was about a year ago right now and I think it was Stone Groove. I flailed a bit but got up it.
Then we did a few pitches of Reeds Regular then we did the Direct! Not too bad a first day in the Valley.
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Sonic
Trad climber
Central Coast, California
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Royal Arches in 2009!!!!!!
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Dolomite
climber
Anchorage
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Munginella late on the day of arrival and then Braille Book the next
day; BB seemed . . . stout!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Aunt fannies pantry
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Trad
Trad climber
northern CA
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Arrived in Camp 4 and found a partner to climb Bishop's Terrace. It went well and was only 2 pm so we concluded there was time for Braille Book (ha). Then we botched the approach and found ourselves at the base of East Buttress Middle instead, where we misread the topo (pre-ST days) to think it was only 5 pitches. By then it was 3 pm but still seemed like plenty of time.
Climbed the last few pitches in the dark with El Cap looming across the valley, which was pretty cool, but it was late September and on top over night I wished I'd worn more than t-shirt and shorts. I learned a lot on that trip.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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That's pretty impressive, steelmnkey. Doing a wall for your first Valley climb is, too, but I thrashed around in daylight the first time I got down from Sentinel. I can't imagine trying to do it by headlamp, particularly finding those third class slabs to the east of the creek.
John
Thanks. Yeah, it was kinda hairy, but slow and easy worked pretty well.
As we'd been out of water since before we topped out, I was SO happy to find that creek. My buddy wouldn't touch the water, but I dove right in and filled up. No ill effects later, I'm happy to say.
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Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
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West Face of Rixons Pinnacle, 5.10a, 5 pitches in 1981 at age 19.
Climbed it with a guy I met the night before via the Camp 4 message board. It seemed soft at the time, but then I was used to North Conway 5.9+.
No one had warned us about the rope eating cracks, so the rope got stuck on the rappel and I had to climb a bit of the South Face to free it. A great intro to the Valley.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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warmed up on sunnyside bench and then we climbed the Royal Arches and it went up and on forever. Descent in the dark- total stumble down the north dome gully. When we got back to camp at about midnight we ate an entire bag of chocolate chip cookies and then slept like the rotten log
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Captain...or Skully
climber
The Seas of Stone.
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See? Random Bulletin Board Dude Strikes Again!!!one
That guy is everywhere...
Seriously chic turtleneck BrokeDown. Awe doesn't even come close.
Diggin' the stylins'...
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Brokedown.... please more.
May 74. I had been climbing for 16 weeks.
I was very happy to climb "After Six"
Killer topic
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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El Cap Chimney/KP Pinnacle, November, 1963
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herm
Trad climber
Bishop
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Serenity crack, Peruvian Flake, and Hoppy's Favorite, and there was still a milk carton in the cave at the end.
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jfs
Trad climber
Upper Leftish
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Bishop's Terrace and then The Nose. That's all I've climbed in the Valley ...so far...
That will be changing this year...
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adam d
climber
The Bears, CA
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I'd climbed in the Meadows a fair bit before I ever climbed in the Valley...time of year, avoiding crowds, whatever the reasons were it took too long.
First climb in the Valley though was the E Butt of Middle Cathedral.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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1980: After Six including the top 5 pitches most people don't even know are there. I carried every hex and stopper I owned - as well as every hex and stopper my partner owned. The rack was fuggin huge - we must have looked like such doofuses with all those carabiners all neatly assembled. On the top pitch I dropped my SMC Figure 8 and watched it go ping-ping-ping down the manure pile. There were no bodies lying at the base, which was a relief.
Did After 7 (first pitch)and Nutcracker the next day. I was so stoked. I thought the Manure Pile was the center of the universe and we were such badasses.
What was the name of the walk-in campground across the river from C4, below Sentinel? I stayed there for a month or so before moving uptown to C4. They closed that campground a year or two later.
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Royal Arches in 1977 with Bob Landfear . . . my first ever visit to the Valley also.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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