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John Butler
Social climber
SLC, Utah
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Nov 15, 2012 - 09:41am PT
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If you have picky feet, then get the ones that fit the shape of your foot and accept whatever design flaws go with it.
for me that means TCs...but I'd like to try on the new Evolves just to make sure that they fit me as poorly as every other Evolve shoe ever made
:-)
btw... As I resole the TCs I find that they feel like I would imagine a high-top Mythos would feel
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2012 - 10:47am PT
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This thread is kind of old. I ended up with TC Pros and like them a lot.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Nov 15, 2012 - 10:54am PT
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If you're not sure, and aren't going for an FA, just look and see what the FA party wore.
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Byran
climber
Yosemite Valley, CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 10:58am PT
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The Grandstones are more of a wide-crack specialty shoe than an all around "trad" shoe. They're super stiff which gives you good support when you're bridging or stacking your feet in an OW. They stand on edges ok, but I wouldn't choose them for a climb that had a lot of slab on it. They don't get into thinner cracks that well either.
But they're good OW shoes that won't break the bank.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Nov 15, 2012 - 11:17am PT
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Regardless of the age of thread.. good discussion.
The 5-10 Grandstones are now my ONLY go-to shoe for ALL climbing. Sport, trad. It's a great all around shoe IMO.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
member since 2002
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Nov 15, 2012 - 11:24am PT
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they are not board lasted
Does anyone make a board lasted shoe anymore?
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 11:41am PT
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Currently running TC pros, 2nd pair, had to get them warrantied. Bad batch of leather failed at the pull on loop just as I got them broken in, now I have a fresh pair waiting. I didn't expect sportiva to replace, I expected and feared a repair instead. Stoked.
that said, they're awesome and all, but Scarpa makes a better product and is due to fill the hole in their lineup with some sort of desirable cracky shoe. Technos were garbage, helixes are great price point shoes, but arent a performancy/comfy cracky shoe. Come on Scarpa and make a competitor to the TC, evolv did. I know five ten makes a couple of high tops, but never again five ten.
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 11:45am PT
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Craftsmanship and quality. Straight up.
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 11:45am PT
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Modern footwear please.
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Matt's
climber
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Nov 15, 2012 - 11:47am PT
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buddha stalin-- the same thing happened to my TC pros-- the leather split in two, starting in between the pull tabs and going all the way down the back of the shoe. The split is not at the stitching of the leather, but right next to it (!)
It's still pathetic how I get a more durable rand put on the shoe by a resole than was originally put on by la sportiva-- unfortunately I really like this shoe...
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 11:49am PT
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Thats exactly what happened to mine. Take them to the dealer you got em from, have em contact the cust svc guy dan salazar (?). You should get taken care of...and theyre not backordered anymore either, mine happened quick.
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 11:51am PT
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Just imagine that sort of shoe put together with proper craftsmanship and tighter standards.....Designed by Heinz. Come on scarpa, take my monies
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 11:57am PT
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Only issue I have had with mine was the thing that helps cinch the heel up with the lace broke on one of mine. Pretty damn good shoe, especially if resoled with Five Ten rubber...incredibly thin toe profile.
Depends on your foot and what you like to climb in. To me it was a poor-fitting mythos with an unfortunately placed grommet at the toe, too soft, thin, and stretchy. Im not a mythos fan either.
Besides, we're paying top dollar here, I want it to come out of the box right the first time, especially with prices the way theyve been going up. TC's are 180 goddamn dollars, at least theyre right right out of the box.
One thing Ive noticed with new shoe technology and modern climbing habits is folks not using crack type shoes anymore, using sporty or slipper type shoes, people like crack climbing in moccasyms for instance, but many of us dont. I think technology helps, but some of us still get crammy tight foot jams, thin shoes dont let me crank it in there. Need some cows butt and midsole. I dont care about board lasted anymore, it just needs some sturdy midsole in there. Technology has given us more options than the old full board last. I loved em, but the new sh#t is the sh#t.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Nov 15, 2012 - 02:09pm PT
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Mythos mods for ankle protection. The suede spat works very well. The tape is just for laughs.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 02:11pm PT
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"wide wednesday" sighting up above, but it's subtle!!
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Norte_Caroliņa_Climber
Gym climber
BigWall Baller From the Holler
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Nov 15, 2012 - 02:16pm PT
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Are those shoes like off-road versions of Mary Janes, Melissa?
I demo'ed those Anasazi velcro high tops. Kind of weird. Didn't really like them, can't pin down why, but something about the way the straps were positioned.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 02:17pm PT
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^^ Wide Wednesday... That's the first thing I thought when I saw those chair legs and the taped ankles!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 02:23pm PT
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I'd been using my 1980's vintage Fires, re-soled with C4, with pretty good results. I just got off the DL after my Achilles tendon surgery none months ago, however, and discovered that my affected foot doesn't fit particularly comfortably any more. I will try everything available, but I was wondering if anyone had any info on the Evolv Astroman.
Thanks.
john
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