The Disciples of Gill

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Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber

Fruita, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2011 - 02:35am PT

John was amazing with his feet on delicate balance problems
where upper body strength wasn't an issue, only good footwork.
I bouldererd with him at many locations, but one of our first
outings to Split Rocks I was a bit astounded by how well he used
his feet and the really difficult foot problems he did. There
was one where he stood up like nothing on the tiniest edge, and
I could barely see it and barely stand up on it. Yet he liked
the overhangs where he could do those pull-ups and one-arm things.
His abilities are, though, by no means limited to upper body
strength. I don't think anyone, including Holloway or any other climber
I've spent time with in the last several decades, can do it better,
when it comes to footwork. Even my friend Tom Higgins, one of the
best at footwork (Kamps too was one of the best) will attest to
Gill's transcendant technique.

Thanks to everyone who has sent me positive feedback about the film.
I am about to finish the second film, Gill Across Time. There was
far too much stuff to fit into the first film.... and I realized
the subject deserved much more. I work on this film in and around bouts
of despair and chronic fatigue... Keep sending me your good
energies. Something has kept me going, I'm not sure what, but probably
the good spirits of my friends...

Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber

Fruita, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2011 - 03:26pm PT

I better bump this up there again, just to make sure word stays
fresh on the dvd of "The Disciples of Gill." To order it, go to
my site, patament.org
I have been getting good feedback on the film. It won't
be easy to make the second film that good, although it
seems to be developing into a very different kind of creation....

Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber

Fruita, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2011 - 03:28pm PT

Maybe a few of you would send out the word to some of
your friends. That would surely help. Anything with
Gill's name attached to it is a good karma sort of thing...

phylp

Trad climber

Millbrae, CA

Mar 10, 2011 - 12:38pm PT

My copy arrived yesterday! Can't wait to watch it, Pat.

Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber

Fruita, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2011 - 08:47pm PT

If you can't wait, then why didn't you watch it yesterday!!
(haha) (you know I'm joking)

The Lisa

Trad climber

Da Bronx, NY

Mar 12, 2011 - 08:41pm PT

Well I have had my copy for two weeks now and am finally settling down to watch. Just came home from bouldering at the gym so this is timely.
Beer in hand (Brooklyn Lager chocolate stout and I have earned it!) I am so glad to finally press 'play.' Later!

Rick A

climber

Boulder, Colorado

Mar 12, 2011 - 10:03pm PT

It's a great film and this is a great thread. Every climber should have Pat's film in his or her collection.

As for this thread, thanks to the contributors, who are a pantheon of bouldering history, including Gill, Goldstone, Ament and Long.

Heel hooks and fancy footwork only for sissies! Who knew?

Rick

Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber

Fruita, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2011 - 05:24pm PT

Rick,
You are just the best of the best and always have been.
I cherish our climbs together. I wonder if sometime
you'd take me up something easy in Eldorado, you
know Pseudo Sidetrack to the last part of Anthill... easy
but has that Eldorado exposure...

The Lisa

Trad climber

Da Bronx, NY

Mar 14, 2011 - 11:46pm PT

I thoroughly enjoyed your film, Pat. It is very sweet your daughter is in it along with all the great climbers.
It is interesting to read the above discussion of John Gill and 'no hands' climbing as that is not what I was thinking when watching the film - that seemed to be practically 'no feet' :)
We are just home from the gym having been inspired to work on 'no feet' campusing and traversing. Whew it is hard, yet fun!
There was some heel hooking performed tonight. I did not knw that used to be a bad thing ;)

Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber

Fruita, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2011 - 12:42am PT

Not a bad thing at all. There simply are certain
routes where John would define his goals and impose upon
himself certain rules. He envisioned how
he wanted to perform a certain sequence. Ripper Traverse,
for example, is done with "the Eagle Move," a lovely
horizontal positioning of the body, and lever move, and he
wouldn't feel right to use some other form of
"jungle gymnastics" just to get across. Many routes
can be done... in whatever way you can get up or
across them. Other routes require a certain form,
some stylistic idea... such things of which John is a master.
On some other route, though, a heel hook would have been
the right thing, the most elegant way for a problem
to be done. It's a fine distinction, not simply
all encompassing negation of heel hooks or footwork.
No, that's getting it wrong and missing the point.
Anyone who has climbed with Gill knows he has footwork
that is as good as any climber's ever was. We've spoken
about his no-hands routes, some of which the best climbers
of that day couldn't repeat using their hands... but there
are countless other routes he's done that involve some
remarkable footwork.

Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber

Fruita, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2011 - 02:38pm PT

Just a hint, if you don't order the dvd within the next day or so,
you'll have to wait to the next run, as I'm just about out...

Best to all,
pat

Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber

Fruita, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2011 - 03:59pm PT

It's just such a silly thing to do, really, no one paid
much attention. Anyone knows he has incredible footwork,
as good as anyone ever had.

The Lisa

Trad climber

Da Bronx, NY

Mar 15, 2011 - 04:12pm PT

DMT, maybe everyone is struck dumb by your audacity ;)
It is nice to have a civilized discussion, I do agree.
A recent issue of 'Climbing' magazine has an article about the importance of footwork - duh, obvious - but it is humorously written and one of the top 5 indications your footwork may be lacking is:
'You climb as hard in flipflops as you do in your rock shoes.'

Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber

Fruita, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2011 - 08:48pm PT

no bad feelings. We're all in it for fun. I do
not belittle anyone for thinking Gill is a show
of muscle. Lots of people have thought so through
the years. But as his partner for many years and on
countless outings together, you get a different look.
I quickly realized it wasn't his strength that made
him so great. That was just a nice addition to
phenomenal climbing ability. He could out footwork
about anyone on the planet on the most delicate of
slabs.

Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber

Fruita, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2011 - 08:50pm PT

Just a tip to anyone thinking of ordering the dvd.
The price will go up after this initial run. You will
note, for example, the $25 dollar price on other dvds
that aren't even as long as mine. Through the retail
market, the price undoubtedly will go up. But for the time
I've offerred a low price, really, since it covers shipping
as well. But that won't last forever... I suggest go for it
now, if you can.

rgold

Trad climber

Poughkeepsie, NY

Mar 15, 2011 - 10:20pm PT

Footwork at work: Fenton's Corner, Hagermeister Boulders, Estes Park, CO.

Picture from Pat's Disciples of Gill blog, before that from Pat's Master of Rock and originally from one of Gill's albums.

Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber

Fruita, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2011 - 02:54am PT

Do I have a blog? Where? I didn't know. Or do you mean this one
here, Rich?

Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber

Fruita, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2011 - 02:56am PT

By the way, that photo of Gill at Hagermeister... He looks so
relaxed and casual, and you just try that route. You need a
microscope to find a hold anywhere, and it's about 5.13 or
something... He walks up it.