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426
climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Appendectomy Crack. Short but good from my spotty memory...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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The inquisition, did you see the recent video on the fetish of that guy floating it onsight? or the epic drama of Will and Russ there? Remember Pamela running up and down the pivot like 8 times that one day?
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2011 - 10:45am PT
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Pamela is a goddess. She schools us all on OW's.
And yes Jay, saw that video. That's what got Steve so motivated to want to try it. That guy sent it but with a lot of work. Now it's high on his list...will take time but the Inquisition will be a place to find us for at least the next year as he works it.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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You should see the photo portfolio of climbs she had at OR!
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Climbing Bump
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Beth, hit me up next time you see me and I'll show the THE list. 99% of the wide cracks in Josh sorted first by area, then by rating. Don't have an e-version, it's just handwritten on a sheet of paper hanging out of one of my guides.
Oh, and Jumar of Flesh, crux is hands over a bulge at the very bottom before the chimney, chimney is about 5.7+. Save a #1 camalot for the exit moves from the crack.
TR Six Pack crack while you're there, it's 6' to the right.
Jumar of Flesh:
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Hey Fluoride,
Check out Huge and Choice on the Castle.
Mega classic, completely overlooked 15 foot roof crack with hands, fist then burly OW lip encounter. By far and away my proudest Josh FA (not that I did many)
PB
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gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
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Jumar of Flesh looks cool.
Stay away from Mushroom Crack. That thing is a piece of sh#t. Bad rock, etc. Instead, do the other climb (not an offwidth), right next to it (Physical Graffiti). Its stellar!
Good, the Bad and the Ugly isn't too bad. The actual bad section is only like 12 inches of really annoying groveling.
Centurion is cool. But has a really intimidating entry (the crux). Its strenuous and if you blow it, you might splat on the slab under it.
Both Kamikaze (5.10c) and Modern Warfare (5.10a) look awesome, but I haven't done them, so I can't comment.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2011 - 04:07am PT
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Will, thanks for the beta on Jumars of Flesh.
e-mail me the list shillidaybeth@gmail.com. Or any weekend, head out with Steve (Cho) and I and we'll do some major OW'ing. That's our main focus these days and I know you're totally dialed in.
Chief - thanks for the suggestion!! Will check it out.
Good OW times ahead!
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2011 - 05:19am PT
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Riley just say when. We're there every weekend and would be happy to have another OW fiend on the rope.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Beth:
Don't have an e-version, it's just handwritten on a sheet of paper
e-mail me the list shilli...
Ummm....yeah.
Riley, back to weekend warrior status as of this week...3 day weekends every other week though, including the one after this weekend.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Take a picture of list?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I never did...
If you guys get to GBU this weekend, have a good ! As I recall, the bar on the fun meter was set pretty high there.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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bonus for the z-clip.
dbl bonus for the tube or 2x4, have to wait until i get home to the big screen to work out which.
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Never heard of Plummers crack or Matrix Cove.Where are they?
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WBraun
climber
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Off-width roools.
It's the one of the most difficult climbing disciplines to master.
It will shut down most modern sport monkeys on any day.
They will run away just at the very sight of a wide crack.
Pussies .....
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2011 - 05:10pm PT
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I'm trying to remember what Jay said that was so hilarious both me and L were cracking up. Cause I am in stitches in that pic.
And yes, GBU will likely go down this weekend or next. Been studying the pics I took of you guys sending that day. It looks as heinious today as I remember it being then.
How are GBU and Championship Wrestling rated the same? CW is straightforward with good right feet into the wide. GBU just looks like hell. Crack to roof to traverse to curving OW. Not even in the same league as CW skillwise.
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