Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
JacksColdSweat
Mountain climber
midwest
|
|
|
Jan 11, 2006 - 01:08pm PT
|
didn't he 'knowingly' use the wrong sized cams?
rumor.
JCS
|
|
handsome B
Gym climber
Saskatoon, Saskatchawan
|
|
|
Jan 11, 2006 - 01:14pm PT
|
Wow, a lot of rumors going around. The first piece that blew was the wrong size. The crack (Ruby's Cafe, Indian Creek, Utah) takes yellow metolious. The first piece that blew was a blue metolious. The second piece that blew was a Trango Flex cam, and you can see for yourself what happened to it.
|
|
TradIsGood
Trad climber
Gunks end of country
|
|
|
Jan 11, 2006 - 01:21pm PT
|
I can't tell for sure from the pictures, but did the rock you landed on act as a "shock absorbing lever", i.e. did the side you landed on rock down? It would help explain the smile!
When I was a kid I was about 15 feet up a ladder over an A/C unit, painting shutters. Bottom of ladder slid away from house (downhill). No place to jump, so I rode the ladder down in the position I was in (leaning sideways). I "landed" still on the ladder between the A/C and the house, softly, since the long end of the ladder seesawed up in the air.
No broken gear to display, but I was covered in black paint! Thank fully none of it hit the white siding.
Hope your belayer was treated royally afterwards. She did a great job!
|
|
poop*ghost
Trad climber
Denver, CO
|
|
|
Jan 11, 2006 - 03:17pm PT
|
Falling! Errrrrrr - Ping!
Falling Again! Errrrr - KaFloughie!
Still Goddamned Falling - Errrrrr - Dirt!
that guy walked away from an ankle breaker or worse.
jason
|
|
mark miller
Social climber
Reno
|
|
|
Jan 11, 2006 - 03:56pm PT
|
I hate falling when you can yell " falling " 3 times and your still falling.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
|
Jan 11, 2006 - 04:32pm PT
|
I was belaying my friend on the half dollar pitch on free blast, when;
The rope went slack and started falling toward me. He got out a
"Falling, it's gonna be a big ONE!" in increasingly shrill tones as he shot past me.
|
|
Cloudraker
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Jan 11, 2006 - 06:58pm PT
|
Holy shit!!! Those are awesome photos!! Glad to see the guy is alright.
|
|
Elcap102
Sport climber
Durango
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2006 - 03:22pm PT
|
Is that Nick Iverson? if it is you Nick Email me (Ben Ryan) Elcapitan102@hotmail.com I'm gonna head out to the Creek soon
Peace
|
|
Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2006 - 03:55pm PT
|
No pictures...
but I took my first "whipper" at NIGHT last year.
It was the C2? pitch off of Ahwanee ledge on WFLT.
Kinda wierd just seeing only the rock that the headlamp illuminates, go wizzing by.
But not as scary as being able to see the exposure!
|
|
BKW
Mountain climber
Central Texas
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2006 - 04:21pm PT
|
Awsome photo sequence. Great to see the last shot and the climber was ok.
|
|
guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2006 - 05:09pm PT
|
In the third frame you can see the "whip" of the cord. Then the "decking"....So this is a whipperdecker.
Great series of shots...
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2006 - 05:24pm PT
|
That's an incredible sequence. Never heard of that many cams blowing out. Fricking belayer deserves a trophy.
JL
|
|
WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2006 - 06:15pm PT
|
Kinda makes me want to go back to pins.
|
|
billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2006 - 06:42pm PT
|
Okay,
I took a 35+ footer past the belay on the nipple pitch. I was trying to back clean a bunch, and the last thing I had clipped was the top bolt on the ladder leading off the belay. I was reaching out to clip the free belay, so I could back clean more, when I levered the cam out. Quite the whipper. When it was all over I looked down and couldn't find my belayer anywhere. Then I look up and he's been pulled a few feet up past the belay. He's all freakin' out saying (well, screaming), "I fell up! I fell up!" I had to tell him to chill out, so I could get back up there and continue on with the pitch. Needless to say, I backcleaned a whole lot less that I had originally planned and I did not re-attempt to climb the free belay. By the fall factor calculator on Petzl's site I took about a 1.15 or 1.2 fall.
|
|
Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2006 - 08:38pm PT
|
I'll take POP-POP-POP for fifty feet, Alex.
He blew a fixed head, pin stack, fixed head, pin, and four Screamers 2000 feet up El Capitan.
What is "Me on Tribal Rite"?
Correct. Go again.
No thanx.
|
|
billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2006 - 11:23pm PT
|
Nice one! We should get Dave Turner to chime in; didn't he take some big one(s) on the new routes he put up? Also, I heard rumors about Kate taking a big, big one...like 130 feet or something???
|
|
Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2006 - 11:58pm PT
|
Hey Billygoat - 120 according to the bros behind me who measured it, not including rope stretch. Broke a rivit hanger and ripped the pitch, which was a rivit ladder. Ugh.
Fun times.
-Kate.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2006 - 12:13am PT
|
as the Metolius Pres once told me in a nice letter when my cam pop'd on a concrete crack...
you have to have hard enough material to deform the metal
sandstone is scary
oh, and to kman's original point- Salathe, Roper, Bridwell, Holmgren, McConachie Bros, all climbed in Pinns, that's good enough for me.
|
|
billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2006 - 02:09am PT
|
Alright, I'm with bulgingpuke...Kate takes the boat.
Kate...you gotta fall factor on that one? Sounds like it was close to 2.
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2006 - 03:49am PT
|
Here's the some discussion on RC of that decking fall above.
My take on it was that, once all the cams were rotated up and to the horizontal and the top one popped, it put all the others in play. By "in play" I mean each succeeding cam in turn had to first rotate back down in order to hold the fall. That process of "rotating down" essentially put all the cam lobes in motion against slick creek sandstone with only the hope that they would somehow manage to re-engage, re-grip the rock, and stop the fall. In reality, once the cam lobes are moving [at some speed] against that slick stuff the odds are not all that bad they'll simply keep moving and pull. People tend to be pretty casual about slamming cams in splitters (without paying attention to their depth), then short slinging them and hoping for the best. Most of the time folks get away with it, but this guy got bit on the ass for it.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!