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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Goleta, California
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Jan 22, 2011 - 10:44am PT
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That's awful. However, I can't see Rolo taking that sitting down. To arms, Sir Italian Knight!
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Disaster Master
Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
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Jan 22, 2011 - 11:01am PT
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Oh, boy. This is bound to bring out bad behavior on all sides...
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jan 22, 2011 - 11:11am PT
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I hope that other sponsored climbers realize that this guy is crapping in the nest of the goose that laid the golden egg. Sportiva supplies him shoes. I'd really hate to have to quit buying Sportivas, but I'll definitely be looking at other brands if the bolts go in.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Jan 22, 2011 - 11:15am PT
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Well said, rgold...
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altelis
Mountain climber
DC
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Jan 22, 2011 - 11:46am PT
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as to mcreel's post....RB should definitely get flack. But it's also not surprising that they would either be blind to the real issue here or just wouldn't care.
However, Lama's other sponsors, his climbing sponsors, should certainly be held to a much higher standard.
Let them know as well!
Mammut:
"Our aim is to offer the very best alpine products, assume our social responsibility, including social responsibility towards our partners, and leave behind the best possible ecological footprint. So that future generations can be mountaineers as well." Contact Mammut
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 22, 2011 - 12:15pm PT
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I sure like this one from; The great Russian alpinist Pavel Shabalin
//“Alpinism was exceptional and sacred because it was closed to the masses. And now it finds itself in the same historical situation as is love.
When love was poetry, it was exceptional and sacred. When mass media put love in TV and magazines, it became pornography.”//
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Double D
climber
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Jan 22, 2011 - 12:19pm PT
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Werner...that's classic.
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e9climbing.blogspot.com
Mountain climber
Alps (Euro trash )
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Jan 22, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
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I just got an email from a friend down in El Chalten. The Lama fiasco is on and they are old school aid climbing to put a man on top... Then top roping/rap bolting. What bunch of of f*#king out right idiots.
I mean we all know a few who are partly stupid and even some who are plain stupid but totally (100 per cent) idiots are rare to come a cross.
I would however not be to worried that they can pull this bull sh#t off. There is quite a few down there with ethics and more on the way. A knife and a blade is light weight and fist fights for free.
Looks like great potential for a punch fiesta. Or getting lots of nice gear for free... I guess polluting can be defended if its a nice cut off haul bag...
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Reuben
climber
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Jan 22, 2011 - 12:32pm PT
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"I am upset, and I don't know what to do about it."
Be creative. Come up with a plot bigger and more beautiful, encompassing more of the human experience than just sending a dream line, but that also gently includes that dream in a re-contextualized way: a plot that will included the discrepancies but also resolve them, perhaps something that involves all of you. Then pitch that plot, because they are, after all, making a movie to make money. And what's socially viable is economically viable. Ask Rolo- I don't know, but it seems like it would be like asking the spirit of those mountains itself.
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Shiny Nuts
Sport climber
Boulder, CO
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Jan 22, 2011 - 12:34pm PT
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Dear Red Bull,
While I can understand that you'd want to endorse an athlete whose field of expertise falls into the category of "extreme sports," it does you no good to attempt to market a person such as David Lama to anybody who loves the sport of rock climbing. I can assure you that the fiasco he and his crew perpetrated in Argentine Patagonia last season did nothing but arouse anger within everyone who, in the worldwide climbing community, value sustainability and responsibility.
It is with this in mind that I urge you to please curtail Red Bull's sponsorship of David Lama in his attempt to free climb Cerro Torre and, before funding other projects of the type, learn about the type of irreversible environmental impact such endeavors have on a pristine location like Patagonia. Surely you can understand the wrongheadedness of paying to sully the name of Red Bull.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 22, 2011 - 12:35pm PT
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If it goes at mid 12 or below, it will be the most popular route on the peak.
French free a crux or two, then fire. People will love it.
Sad, but true. It's how we are.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jan 22, 2011 - 12:46pm PT
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Calling Ken Nichols .....
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Ricardo Cabeza
climber
All Over.
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Jan 22, 2011 - 12:55pm PT
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It's a drunken tattoo on the most beautiful temple we've found.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Jan 22, 2011 - 12:55pm PT
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Cerro Torre is situated inside of Los Glaciares National Park. Is it difficult to transport all of your equipment inside of it without breaking any of the laws of the National Park?
"Daniel and myself will be carrying all of our stuff into the park and out again. Transport flights are forbidden, but it’s not in our interest to leave any traces anyway."
Will the project be documented?
"The entire expedition will be documented by a film crew and by a photographer, perhaps even from a helicopter. The crew knows exactly what they are doing and beyond that they will be supported by guides, so that the two of us can concentrate exclusively on climbing."
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alexandre
climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Jan 22, 2011 - 04:11pm PT
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Does that mean that they will rebolt what rolo has chopped already?
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ncrockclimber
climber
NC
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Jan 22, 2011 - 04:34pm PT
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I said something similar in a previous thread, but I think that it is worth repeating. Some places, challenges and mysteries need to remain unchanged and not suitable for mass consumption. Not everything is supposed to be filmed or blogged into submission. If this route as special as the Llama and his guides claim, then maybe they should care less about filming it and more about preserving and respecting it.
I have always believed that the style in which you climb is just as important as whether you succeed or not. If getting to the top is the only goal, then it logically follows that chipping and gluing on holds are acceptable alternatives. Bolting Cerro Torre is just the beginning. The total lack of respect Llama and RedBullshit are showing for an iconic route is beyond contemptible. They are not just breaching our communities values, but they are destroying the rock for future generations. I sincerely hope that someone put's a stop to this.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 22, 2011 - 05:31pm PT
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LOL ^^^^^
Didn't we used to do that here in Yosemite Valley.
And then all these whinny SuperTopo bitches started screaming foul .....
:-)
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