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Mountain climber
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Jan 28, 2011 - 10:42am PT
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I've been busy climbing and skiing, so it's taken weeks to get to Full Value.
Bump for Haan, and for Alpinist! Excellent issue and excellent article, Peter. I would love more.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 28, 2011 - 10:45am PT
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Well done Peter!
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Buju
Big Wall climber
the range of light
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Thanks, Peter, for a SPECTACULAR read!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 23, 2011 - 02:08am PT
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Bump this.
I loved the descriptions of the climbing, of the times and of Peter's thoughts. I want to point out about that w.r.t Basket Case, if Peter had problems with a holdless subtle overhanging flair, it was f*#king difficult. That was his strong suite from what I saw, and he just walked up those.
I've never seen any photos of Basket Case or for that matter of any side of the Hour Glass. Are they out there?
Also: what Hartouni said, the whole issue is good.
Darwin
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Mar 23, 2011 - 03:53am PT
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The Hour Glass thread either had photos, or the description was so bone-chilling you didn't need any.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Mar 23, 2011 - 04:16am PT
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This thread just motivated me to order a subscription to the Alpinist!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Mar 23, 2011 - 09:32am PT
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No Dar, there have been photos of the Left Side up for years. I took a group of images in 2000. It seems there are no photos though of anyone actually climbing the first pitch (or any of the pitches) from what I can tell. Here is one of the links to see those yr 2000 images:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=199688&tn=0&mr=0
I did have a camera back then but I couldn't bring myself to take it to the Hourglass then (1971) because "everything had to be perfect"--- I knew the lead would be so dangerous, all things had to point upward the whole time I would be leading it, and to go deepest, I couldn't have a camera around, looking at surfaces. To this day, that lead---although not the hardest climbing I have ever done---was by far the deadliest, given how it couldn't be protected with the methods of the time.
A very recent finding regarding the Left Side is that Rik Rieder, Bridwell's partner on the second ascent of the Left Side, has stated Bridwell established a hanging belay just below the roof---- like 40 feet off the ground and thus broke the first pitch into two forty to sixty foot pitches, dissolving the pretty hard problem of clipping and turning around at the one bolt starting the roof. And obviously providing a giant rest there too.
The actual article I began in 2002 or so is now in editing with Alpinist for #35/Summer edition, by the way. It will be incredibly interesting to see how Katie Ives works with this piece; I think I will see the first go-around in about two weeks. I spent so many different times writing and rewriting the thing, winding it tighter and tighter....
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Mar 23, 2011 - 06:03pm PT
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Peter is one of those writers whose strong energy gives to writing
an exhilaration and excitement. I will never forget an evening with Peter in the early 1970s when he brainstormed with me, as I began to compose my piece "Nerve Wrack Point" with Tom Higgins. It amazed me how clever and imaginative he was and inspiring. I was more or less a beginner at the
time, and I learned a lot as I listened to his spellbinding comments...
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