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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2011 - 12:52pm PT
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Lynne, your call made a good argument for joining you guys Sunday. I'm caught up in trying to finish something though, so we opted for another day at Woodson. Sounds like you guys had a good time, I'll have to check the place out...
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Unfortunately no pics of the Sail. I'll have to head back out there soon.
We did set up two TRs on the Sail. One that follows the obvious dishes and crimps up until you have to make a move right to a xenolith. I think that's the standard route.
We also set up a TR to the right of that. The start was heinous and would take a lot more work to figure out but I linked some sharp crimps and side pulls from about 7ft. off the ground.
Is that Bedfords route? There might have been another route to the left of the standard one too?
I just realized the solo is on the east side of the boulder with the chasm of doom landing. I opted for the west side with the manzanita spiked landing.
Much more to come, Woodson season is here...
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Uhhhhh....I ran into Eliot, et al at seminar wall as well and have absolutely nothing positive to report but that I felt like a fat pig...you got a problem with that? Hmmf!
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REIGN 1
Social climber
Carlsbad, Ca
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Yeah that route bedford put up on the sail has some hard moves at the start and stays good for a bit with crimps and side pulls. He had a talent for verticle crimping bitd. Haha
I think it's solid 11.c
And I had hennys back when he set up the sail. At least I would have called someone to go find him when I got home that night if he failed on the solo lol
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
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I got a million good Woodson stories that have not seen the light of day ... We are all ears.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Anyone heading up M - F ? I'm free from 0830 - 1430.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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D. Hensel, Hope you guys accomplished your mission ...... or at least had fun at giving it a go. A guy came into Nomad Ventures, Temecula yesterday and described you guys to a t. He was at Woodson and was pretty amazed at how you guys were firing. He had no clue :D He and I had a good chuckle when I mentioned some of the stuff you all have done. Cheers !
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blr
climber
socal
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Here you go Eliot. The only picture I took all weekend.
I had to let Eliot know about the large bone that we found directly underneath him as he was soloing too.
Mungeclimber, that helps explain some of the noises I was hearing... heh.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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A few notables up on Woodson today...
Pat Goodman on his third attempt...
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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I must say I was fully astounded by the quality of the stone.
Equally astounding was how attractive a few of the 20 or so female prisoners were that passed us on the way up.
Three hikers told me that I made the robbins crack look hard!
You have to try pretty hard at woodson.
Thanks for the tour B!
Mucci
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2011 - 10:56am PT
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Nice. Keep the pictures coming...
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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No photos Eliot?
Edit: Texts received from Eliot, "Batteries were dead, sucks!...Got on Hard As Nails, so amazing! My new favorite climb!"
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gonamok
climber
aging malcontent
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Cool! What better way for the confusion over woodwards arete to be settled than by jonny himself coming down to spank that thing and send it home to mama. Good to see you on the hill, JW!
Erosion has lowered the ground around some problems at woodson by 3 feet or more in the past 20 years or so, especially on the north slope, where some really huge boulders are so undercut they appear ready to roll.
You used to start top secret file by grabbing chunks on the right side, planting the left foot on the slab and hucking onto it. The ground is now so low you cant reach the chunks, and the left foot smear is about chest high. If it goes, its way way harder now.
Does anybody know if its been done recently?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2011 - 02:07am PT
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I don't know of any Top Secret File repeats. Never seems to have chalk on it either. But, I do know it has been tried a couple of times and that on at least one occasion it was close to being repeated.
I suspect that the comment "If it goes, its way way harder now." is very likely going to amp the guilty party back into action for the repeat. I guess we'll just have to wait and see if the bait is taken.
(Edit: Wait, thinking about it I believe Bedford said he's repeated TSF. Still, I'd guess no more than a couple of repeats total. Then again, if Bedford could do it, there's probably been a stack of people who... hehe)
It was cool wandering around up there with JW. He had a good time, I wouldn't be surprised to see him come back if he gets a chance. I get the feeling he'd like to spend some time putting up new problems.
Thinking about JW's arete I came up with a question. What other bouldering areas have as many good arete problems? The TV screen has 2, just by itself. And I can think of quite a few others that are similar, not to mention the ones like Slap You Silly that are rounded. Other areas have aretes, but it seems that Woodson has proportionately more - is that a true observation? Where else is there as high a volume of good granite aretes?
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Can't forget this gorgeous arete!...
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Gonamok, how has the start to Top Secret File eroded so much? That's currently a project of mine and I've just been starting it with my hands on the flake and feet on the adjacent rock...first mantling onto the flake and then stepping onto the window pane that is the slab itself.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Oh, and word on the hill is that it has seen a couple repeats.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!