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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Nov 26, 2010 - 10:42pm PT
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The vertical mulch concept is still your best option. It requires only a small long term investment in a post hole digger.
As for the horse sh#t, if you ever run out, just invite your buddy AC over.
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go-B
climber
Matthew 25:40
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Nov 26, 2010 - 11:40pm PT
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Knowing the pH of the soil, acid to alkaline, a neutral of 7 on the scale or midway between the two is best.
You need to test your soil to see what pH it is, and you can change to the other side by adding sulfur to lower the pH and adding lime to raise the pH.
Soil texture from clay, sand, Loam, and hardpan, effects the drainage, organic soil amendments, compost to peat moss can help the soil.
We used a 3' times 2" drill bit instead of a post hole digger to vertical mulching mixing fertilizer and peat moss and filling the holes the way TGT said (minus the roundup / herbicide, LOL) worked good, as well as aerating the soil at the same time!
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go-B
climber
Matthew 25:40
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Nov 27, 2010 - 11:26am PT
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“Pruning is one of the best things an arborist can do for a tree but one of the worst things we can do to a tree.” Alex Shigo
You should have a need and a reason for what you do to your trees!
It's best to (leaf) them alone, for no other reason!
(Most trees in the urban setting are not in their native environment)
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sempervirens
climber
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Nov 28, 2010 - 07:33pm PT
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My knowledge and interest is mostly in identifying plants and their ecology in nature, rather than in horticulture of any kind. But I find this topic interesting.
In my part of the world - Northern California - Sycamores are usually in riparian habitats, floodplains, seasonal drainages, etc. In western Oregon I've seen 'em thriving in city parks and along streets, leading me to think they can tolerate a considerable amount of soil compaction. In dry, high elev. (or 6000' elev) N. Mex I'd guess they are either riparian or they are watered. Maybe they'd only need watering during the dry seasons of their first couple years. But if they were showing signs of fungus then less watering might be considered. Conversely, if they are young trees (like less than 4 or 5" diamaeter) they'd probably need watering in the dry season.
Can you arborists chime in on potential disease problems, watering regime, pruning, signs of deficiencies and diseases that Norton can look for. Thus far the trees have been determined to be Sycamores, Pines and Cherry.
Just some info from wikipedia:
Old sycamores can have massive trunks. They are often planted as shade trees in cities and city parks.
Propagation and pests
The American sycamore is a favored food plant of the pest sycamore leaf beetle.
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Diseases**
American sycamore is susceptible to Plane anthracnose disease (Apiognomonia veneta, syn. Gnomonia platani), an introduced fungus naturally found on the Oriental plane P. orientalis, which has evolved considerable resistance to the disease. Although rarely killed or even seriously harmed, American sycamore is commonly partially defoliated by the disease, rendering it unsightly as a specimen tree.
The disease makes its appearance soon after the leaves have expanded, appearing in the form of small black spots which lie close to the veins. As a result, the half grown leaves turn brown, shrivel, and fall. It is very common in early July to see these trees putting forth their second crop of leaves while the first hang brown, dead, and unsightly on the ends of the branches. This greatly shortens the effective growing season for the plant.[1]
As a result of the fungus' damage, American sycamore is not often planted; the more resistant London plane (P. x hispanica; hybrid P. occidentalis x P. orientalis) being preferred instead.
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Dropline
Mountain climber
Somewhere Up There
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Nov 28, 2010 - 08:13pm PT
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From Norton in the original post.
Anyone have experience with this kind of horticulture? Yes. I'm a teaching faculty member at a major horticultural institution.
Is it really necessary to supply chemical nutrients to otherwise healthy looking trees just to insure that they stay healthy? While there are exceptions, the answer is almost always no.
Last thing I want to do is stop the treatments and then catch hell if a tree starts to get sick. They may get sick and die whether you stop the fertilizer injections or not. Trees are not like people other than, like people, trees grow then some day they become sick and die. Sometimes we can do something about it, sometimes we can't.
Any expert opinions? Unless there are unique circumstances, like preventing Dutch elm disease in elm trees by injecting a fungicide every spring, then micro-injection (or any other kind of trunk injection) is generally not a good idea.
As for diagnostics, online self diagnosis of tree problems can easily lead one astray. A site visit by a qualified professional would be of benefit. Soil analysis would be of benefit. Foliar analysis might be of benefit.
To eliminate conflicts of interest in diagnosis and recommendation of services, hire someone who will not also be selling you services, other than consulting. There are two sets of senior qualifications for diagnostic work you might need: ASCA Registered Consulting Arborist and ISA Board Certified Master Aborist. If you google these terms you'll be able to find lists of RCAs and BCMAs in your area. They will most likely be very short lists. ASCA has lots of members but few RCAs. ISA has thousands of certified arborists, but very few BCMAs.
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