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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2010 - 01:44pm PT
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Who needs a solid gold frame when you have a solid gold heart?!?
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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You guys seem to have sorted out the technical equipment issues in my absence just fine! ST (and guys like RDB and Steve G) is a veritable dictionary of knowledge of such things.
Regarding the comments from those who were inspired, I can only say I'm innocent of any ideas that the old visions of alpine sugarplums that danced in my head in those days would resonate with you simply weren't within my cognisance. I am happy though, to read your stories.
-JelloVeil
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10b4me
Ice climber
Happy Boulders
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Jello was way head of his time
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marv
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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those tools look prehistoric. what's it like to stick a tube pick?
speaking of tools, was the Black Prophet the state of the art circa early 1990s?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2011 - 03:52pm PT
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Looks like that covershot was just too good to see only one cover!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2011 - 06:10pm PT
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Heroic Jello Bump!
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Barcus
Social climber
San Luis Obispo, Ca.
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May 15, 2011 - 06:25pm PT
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Steve, you are on a roll!
Thank you x 10
Keep bumpin!
Marcus
Evil too!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2011 - 07:14pm PT
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Check out some of the threads on page four...
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 16, 2011 - 11:03am PT
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Maybe Jello will tell the Scott Fischer story,..
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steve shea
climber
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May 16, 2011 - 12:35pm PT
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I remember Hummingbirds, very innovative tool. We had been using whatever was available and news traveled fast in those days. The tube pick seemed like a no brainer. We had been using Lowe Drive Ins and a variety of other ice gear and the drive in was everyone's favorite for strenuous steep leads cause they went in so fast from the elbow hang. But no one had fallen on one so we took it for granted that they would hold. You drove them in and screwed them out. Any way we were all excited to get some tube picks. I got some early ones from Jeff or Greg, can't remember who. They performed as advertised, incredibly easy to place in plastic, wet or brittle ice. The only shortcoming was that they would load and be very difficult to clean in certain conditions but most of the time worked well. We eventually found though that the tube would dent or deform if you hit a rock and make it more difficult to place, they were not good for mixed so most of us went back to blades. Terrors. Also the only injury I ever had ice climbing was when I decked after a tube pick broke. That was doing some 3rd classing at the RR tracks in Aspen. Went about 20'. Also access to Bridalveil back in the day was easy. It was a roadside attraction cause you could drive right to the base. Gordon Smith and I did it in 76', I think. We used blades and found it very sporting.
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Barcus
Social climber
San Luis Obispo, Ca.
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May 16, 2011 - 02:28pm PT
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Bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
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Bump to go with BMcC and Ed's TRs!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
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May I please have another Sir!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 31, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
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Mega, mega thread!
Thx Steve!
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Aug 31, 2013 - 08:05pm PT
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I remember when they climbed that and the pics came out. I was in high school and Jello was my hero.
Got me climbing, so thanks.
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More Air
Trad climber
S.L.C.
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In 1979 Rick Wyatt and I arrived in Telluride to attempt Bridal Veil falls.
That morning we ran into Greg Lowe, David Breashears and Henry Barber. We were told that fixed ropes were on the falls and that Jeff Lowe was being filmed there. They said we couldn't do the climb...we were just a couple of young scrappy unknowns. Breashears, sensing our disappointment, quickly recommended another climb for us to do...Ames Ice Hose. Although being thinner than on the first ascent, we managed the first 2 pitches, thanks to Rick. Satisfied, we left for home (Salt Lake City) vowing to return.
A month later, we were back. That night, we slept on the ground, at a pull out, just outside of Telluride. In fat conditions we made the climb. During our ascent I noticed the ropes of the film crew, frozen deep into the ice. Twice, I was able to clip into these ropes and use them for protection. Much better than the old screws we were using....I guess our ascent was aided a bit! Jeff was the one we looked up to.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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back when shitt wasn't played-out
real
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2014 - 06:08pm PT
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Classic early Jello Bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2015 - 09:12am PT
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Jello will always be my hero!
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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May 25, 2015 - 10:24am PT
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I moved to Telluride in the late fall of '77 at the age of 23. Heard about Jeffs climb in the bar that night. I was a climber of sorts... Yosemite rock and Pac Northwest alpine ice, but had never been on waterfall ice. That winter we made a few excursions to try it out but my shitty tools (Forrest verglass axe and Molnar hammer) only succeeded in blowing out huge dinnerplates which either cut your face, smashed your knuckles or washed out your front points. Plus my dauchstein mits and single boots lead to screaming meanies. ha And I was working for minimum wage running lifts so my budget only barely covered my new skis, no funds for better ice tools. Still have the molnar and my ridgid SMCs stuffed somewhere in my closet.
Anyway never got proficient on ice in that era. Came back to it 10 years ago or so with modern tools and wow.... whole new game. Even girls can do it now. :)
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