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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Dec 19, 2005 - 10:23am PT
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You cannot trust any image you see online, in the papers, magazines on the tube or the movies. Climbing mag altered pics, the LA Times has done the same and with MR's access to the best editing software in Hollywood, the same applies to his pics.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Dec 19, 2005 - 11:11am PT
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People say the photos can be staged. I say prove that.
Let's see a staged photo of someone on Eqinox above the crux,
without a harness. Then we can start calling on MR for more proof than meer photos.
Edit: I saw that Star Trek flick where Krik was "soloing" El Cap. Looked fake as all get-out, even with all the Hollywood jiz.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Ca
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Dec 19, 2005 - 12:38pm PT
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How can anyone who was around Bachar in the old days say he was not self promoting?! I think the only reason John isn't thought of this way is that he was SOOOOOO far above the rest of us, but we don't think of MR this way. Bachar was bigger than life and got away with stuff no one else can today. The only other climber to come close was Largo.
Now, I am not saying there was anything wrong with that, then, and I know all of them pretty well, but come one! Don't change the past to fit what you want to believe today.
Levy, call Mike up and go climbing for christ's sake! It's not like you don't know each other.
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Dru
climber
HELL, BABY, HELL!
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Dec 19, 2005 - 03:06pm PT
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A couple years after Tomo Cesen's claims of Lhotse and Jannu were exposed as being likely fraud, he soloed a 13c sport route at one of his home crags in Slovenia before witnesses....
Point being you can be a very good free soloist and still lie about some of your ascents. Seeing one hard climb done does not mean that all other claimed ascents have been done.
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Wheatus
Social climber
CA
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Dec 19, 2005 - 04:17pm PT
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Kofi Donny Annan Wrote:
"bullshzt, wheatus
has anybody amongst the *known* climbing community seen MR solo Vampire, Turbo Flange, Romantic Warior, or any others close to that difficulty?
nope. just sub-men like yourself saying a friend of a friend of a friend....
all lies"
Gee, what have I done to Kofi to warrant being called a "sub-man" (ouch! I think my manhood will never recover!)? I don't even know Kofi or care to know him now. Tooo cold!
By the way, I am known in the climbing community but not for climbing solo or sending 5.14. I am just a climber for the past 25 years who loves to climb and could care less about proving anything to anyone but myself. I won't reply to Kofi's slander toward me just as Michael Reardon should not care about infantile comments from people how don't even know him. I work for a living and support a family so my climbing is limited to holidays and weekends. I have not personally witnessed his recent solos but I stand by Mr. Reardon. To call him a liar based on a "gut" feeling or jealously is just slander. Provide proof of MR's lies or just get a life.
When Croft soloed Astroman how many people witnessed this accent? Were the witnesses close enough to see if he pulled on any fixed gear? I doubt there is any debate about Peter's solo. I have never seen Peter solo harder than 5.10. Therefore, according to Kofi I should reject Peter's claim. However, I know Peter and believe him implicitly.
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T-2
Mountain climber
Baldwin Park , Calif.
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Dec 19, 2005 - 04:30pm PT
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Climbing has a long history of taking a person at his or her word. Fakes have a way of being uncovered with the passing of time. Without real,un-biased proof we should give MR his due. It dosen't really change me or how I feel about my climbing whether or not it is true. Is it possible that there are some bent egos out there? Where do we draw the line on this slippery slope.
Tony
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Dec 19, 2005 - 06:40pm PT
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Temple, Gayley, Sill. Car to car 19hrs.
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mtwoodsonguide
Big Wall climber
San Diego
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Dec 19, 2005 - 07:07pm PT
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What about Temple to Galey to Sill in 19 hours?
Thought it was 18
This is interesting to me because if you can do that traverse in 18 then multiply 18, 19, whatever by 4 or 5 and thats about how long it would take to do the Palasade Traverse if you have enough stamina.
So do the math, 23 hours would mean running across 4th and 5th class choss in the dark, after doing it for the past 18 hours, hmm.
I could do Temple to Sill in 18, but can't fathom the Palasade Traverse in 23. What I'm curious about is was he taking his time waiting for someone else? he seems to be proud of that Temple to Sill time the way it was let be known.
Right Ski Track and Butterfly Crack HAA HAA HAA HAA
I could do both of those in my approach shoes in the dark naked carrying a water melon, and I'm a frickin nobody. The question was ANYTHING HARD.
If I had to solo a 11d in the Needles it would be Atlantis, If I had done it 100 times I still wouldn't do Romantic Warrior or Turbo Flange, scary.
I'm not questioning the technical climbs, but I do question the Palasade Traverse because I was on the middle 5 peaks 4 days after him and saw no souvenirs.
My theory- I think he attempted it, bailed off Polmonium and just said f-it I can do it I'll come back next year and then decided to say he had done it, because in his mind he knows he can.
If you can go that far you could finish, but 23 thats pretty crazy fast.
Course maybe I'm wrong, a fool, and have no vision, imagination, whatever.
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Dec 19, 2005 - 07:45pm PT
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mtwg said
"I could do Temple to Sill in 18, but can't fathom the Palasade Traverse in 23. What I'm curious about is was he taking his time waiting for someone else? he seems to be proud of that Temple to Sill time the way it was let be known. "
Duh! He was waiting for me!
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mtwoodsonguide
Big Wall climber
San Diego
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Dec 19, 2005 - 07:57pm PT
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Ok,thats what I figured, still having trouble imagineing a full traverse in 23
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Dec 19, 2005 - 08:34pm PT
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mtwg said
"I could do Temple to Sill in 18,
Right Ski Track and Butterfly Crack HAA HAA HAA HAA
I could do both of those in my approach shoes in the dark naked carrying a water melon, and I'm a frickin nobody.
If I had to solo a 11d in the Needles it would be Atlantis, "
If you can do all these things you are a bad ass mofo. No one will deny it. But it still wont get you shoes for life. I will give you my shoes if you pull off the watermellon climb.
Wes
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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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Dec 19, 2005 - 09:07pm PT
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If I had to solo a 11d in the Needles it would be Atlantis
well, you don't have to-
so i take it that you haven't then, isn't that right?
and yet when you say that, it's as if to diss the guy that's pretty clearly soloing quite a bit harder than you are, isn't that right? (so it's a soft or secure 11d? god forbid he would pick a light 11d...)
so you cannot fathom the palisade traverse in 23h?
can you fathom the nose in less than 3? i can't.
again, whatever, i am not on a mission to defend the guy and his issues are not mine, but let's all step back and examine what is really going on here. to me it stinks. if you dislike the mags, don't read them.
edit: hans has/had a line on his speedclimb.com site stating that if you lie about your time, you are not cheating anyone but yourself. i agree w/ that.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Dec 19, 2005 - 11:20pm PT
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I've only recieved one call about the free shoe challenge (he declined when he found out it was without ropes) I guess nobody wants free rock shoes for life....oh well. They don't have to be Acopa either (I'll buy you whatever brand you want). Maybe I should offer money instead?
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 19, 2005 - 11:30pm PT
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Sh-it John, when's this Reardon guy coming to Yosemite and going to solo all that crazy sh-it you did.
I'll never forget the flow you had on the rock, one of the most beautiful sights to see.
You're a ledgend you know, and a living one to boot, so don't stop climbing bro, so that we can all still see the magician in you.
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wildone
climber
right near the beach, boyeee (lord have mercy)
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Dec 20, 2005 - 12:31am PT
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Jody, I might be interested in those 13s. Are they small 13s? I take it they are? If so, they'd be perfect for me. I had 12.5 5.10 ascents (fit great) and I run super tight Muiras at 11.5.
How much are we talkin'?
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