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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Oct 31, 2010 - 12:30am PT
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yeh it does huh duh. i forgot to look in my old Jensen guide for cliff house. im thinking maybe the crack the new schoolers are calling Fingerbanged is the Old Man And The Sea ?? -possibly a nice piece of history. thanks for sorta reminding me Munge!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Drunken-
Nice website, Old man and the sea is that crack, usually sand dependant and very sporty from below the crack.
There is a old bolt as mentioned above the big roof just N of the man made retaining wall, That bolt hosted 4 routes the hardest of which was on the right side.
Putting names on those problems is cool, But that cave and most of the beach has been "developed" for over 30 years.
Have any of you been to the pyramid rock? Just out from the tunnel after the baths is a large triangular rock, 2 bolts at the top.
Way steep and loose, 3-4 routes, all TR's.
Mucci
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Ah, the pyramid rock, eh? That's the one I mentioned looking at earlier. yikes.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Drunken- it's muir at point reyes. I bet it shows up on google earth.
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benbro
Sport climber
San Francisco/South Lake Tahoe
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BUMP - this is a great thread!
i moved ot the city from tahoe 5 months ago, and i've been loving exploring the climbing around here - especially glen park and beaver street. There are plenty of fun options to keep you busy on stone in the area...c'mon its a city so you can't expect classics, but enough to keep even a tahoe kid psyched with the regular trip to mickeys or castle rock added in.
Heading to ocean beach this afternoon to check out that chossy pyramid rock thing- came across it a few weeks ago with no prior knowledge and with a cam and/or sling back up and those two rusty bolts (really don't look old - just rusty as hell!) should be a safe(ish) horror show best accompanied by beer.
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frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
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Cool thread Peter, never knew there was any climbing at all in The City.
And what a beautiful city it is...
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Beaver St. Wall climbing is now apparently by permit only.
Just FYI.
(apologies in advance if this was posted elsewhere in another thread, but this seemed like a good place to mention it to the locals.)
There is a sign posted at the top and bottom of the cliff about climbers damaging the rock, which is apparently a very rare "slickenside" or fault mirror, possibly the "largest example in the world". See: http://geology.about.com/od/geoprocesses/ig/slickensides/slickendbeaver.htm
There is a number for SF Park & Rec. posted on the sign. No idea yet on what is involved in obtaining a permit. Anyone else?
I was surprised to see the new signs, but then not so much when I noticed there does appear to be accentuated chiseled holds on the right side that I don't recall seeing in recent years. Didn't get a chance to sample the climbing there, as I have in the past, on those chossier grainy slopers (5.11ish?, but it definitely looks easier now. Very unfortunate if indeed some selfish climbers decided to deepen the holds and possibly lead to the signs appearing.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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I took an old friend out there to Beaver Street in December.
I hadn't been there since high school, but everything appeared as it used to be. There were some new chains attached to the fence, but the routes were as good as ever, and I didn't see any new chipped holds.
As for no climbing signs, I seem to recall those from when I was a kid. One of he guys we used to see there told me that he looked up the actual civil code and said that the ordinance cited simply meant that we couldn't be there after dark.
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Glen Park mid 90's
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2014 - 12:48am PT
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I always wondered about that feature. I kept thinking it was far beyond ordinary. It was so insanely mirror-finished.
I would say a wet polish at 3000-5000 grit diamond. Like glass. That it might be the largest such natural one in the known world actually doesn't surprise me. But how cool!! It was a freak even to me at 14. We need a modern picture of it. Very unique and beautiful.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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... that feature ... It was so insanely mirror-finished.
I would say a wet polish at 3000-5000 grit diamond. Like glass. There's a crater near June Lake CA you can drive to, and entering on foot you see an overhanging wall of pure obsidian. I remember looking closely at it, and fingering some low holds.
No doubt a cake-walk for modern boulderers and old school hard men.
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Met a guy and he talked about showing me some of the climbing in the city. Sorry that I never got to see it. Got a laugh from some of his stories at least.
perch,ance bump
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Chris Cunningham
Trad climber
San Francisco
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The sign claims that preserving the rare "slickenside" rock feature is the motivation to restricting climbing at the Beaver Street Wall. I don't believe this. It is true that almost all the climbable features are pin scars: see the pictures earlier in this post. Rec and Park has been ripping out rock and grading all over Glen Canyon and Corona Heights in the last couple months. One of the senior Rec and Park field guys told me they don't rip out rock. I showed him my pictures; he knew he was nailed lying.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Apr 10, 2014 - 12:58am PT
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Thanks for posting the pics Chris. Where was that rock pic in Glen Park? I've noticed all the stair "improvements" in recent years. Wondering when the handrails will go in and warning signs about the dangers of rock climbing there, which has seen an increase. I'm seeing more and more folks, with their bouldering pads.
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