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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Great to see this again.
I hadn't noticed the Bruce Cooke piton before.
I remember trying to convince him to make me a few, but I was unsuccessful.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Yosemite Facelift
9/26/2012
Washburn Point
More fickle than you can ever imagine.
Thank you, Baby. Thank you, BooDawg.
Quite a story. Quite an adventure.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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originalpmac
Mountain climber
Timbers of Fennario
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Great post.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2017 - 07:11pm PT
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It's very interesting to see this thread pop back up on Page 1 here because recently I been in touch with 2 different distant cousins who have been going to Yosemite for years and who are related to my great grand mother, Hattie Muth McCoy from whose family photo album I posted here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2062581/YOSEMITE-CIRCA-1931-Who-else-be-Holdin-WAY-Old-Imagery
When I first met the 2 cousins nearly a year ago, we decided to stay in touch, and I invited them to come to Facelift this year which they did! Lisa and I spent 2 days with them picking up trash and enjoying each other's company immensely. It is Eric Egli who is my 3rd cousin, I think, and his wife Peggy keeps tabs on the Muth family tree.
Below is a pic of (right to Left) Lisa, Eric, Peggy, and BooDawg.
And here is one of Eric and Peggy during one of the raffles.
Here's my grandmother, Ida McCoy, from her mother, Hattie Muth McCoy's photo album.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2018 - 08:30pm PT
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Recently, some climber friends of Lisa and mine, Josh and Miranda, who live nearby got married, and we gave them a present of historical rock-climbing equipment. We felt that they might enjoy climbing hardware more than additional house wares since they are well beyond their 20’s. Here is a picture of the hardware collection plus a row-by-row explanation of each piece of equipment.
Congratulations on your Wedding, Josh & Miranda! Since you are both rock-climbers, Lisa and I thought you might enjoy some historical climbing hardware more than housewares…
Row 1, Left to Right: 1) Cassin (Italy) soft steel, spoon “horizontal” (1950’s); 2) Stubai? (Austria) soft steel, “vertical” piton, purchased in 1960 by Ken’s father for our 1961 ascent of Yosemite’s Mt. Lyell. (1950’s);
3) Chouinard, flame-cut chromoly (chrome-molybdenum alloy) “Bugaboo” (early 60’s); 4) Chouinard early die-forged thick-long Lost Arrow (mid 60’s); 5) Chouinard later die-forged thick-long Lost Arrow “horizontal” piton (later 60’s); 6) Chouinard later die-forged thin-long Lost Arrow piton (later 60’s), never used; 7) Dolt prototype D-eye piton, used on Ken’s 8th ascent of Nose, 1968. D-shaped eye was meant to reduce leverage under load; 8) 3/16” bolt hanger, made by Dennis Hennek & Ken Boche, (mid-60’s); 9) Dolt ¼” bolt hanger (late 60’s); Leeper ¼” bolt hanger w/ Rawl drive stud (late 60’s); 10) SMC ¼” bolt hanger (late 60’s)
Row 2, Left to Right: 1) U.S. Army oval carabiner (1950’s) [Note: larger diameter than Bedayn (and other ovals of the time), plus no manufacturer’s marks.] 2) Bedayn oval carabiner (60’s-70’s) [Note: TCG on gate are Tom Charles Gerughty’s initials. Flip carabiner up to reveal Raffi Bedayn’s manufacturer’s mark.] 3) Chouinard later “D” model carabiner whose D-shape allowed gate to open when loaded with climber’s weight, useful in aid climbing. (Late 60’s) [Note: KB (Ken Boche) on gate; Flip carabiner up to reveal the Chouinard manufacturer’s mark.]; 4) Chouinard RURP (Realized Ultimate Reality Piton). This is a later design with 2 holes for slings (late 60’s-early 70’s); 5) Dolt “Bashie,” a soft aluminum “piton” which could be hammered into irregular “cracks” and hold a climber’s weight during aid ascents. 6) Chouinard #2 “Stopper” (early model, 1972); 7) Chouinard #1½ “Stopper” (later model, 1970’s).
Row 3, Left to Right: 1) Chouinard 2” chromoly bong (Late 60’s); 2) Chouinard 1½” chromoly angle (Late 60’s); 3) Chouinard 1¼” chromoly angle (Late 60’s); 4) Chouinard ¾” angle, never used (Late 60’s); 5) Chouinard ½” Wedge angle, never used (Late 60’s); 6) Leeper chromoly Z-shaped piton (Late 60’s); 7) CMI off-set piton (early 70’s); 8) Chouinard stamp-cut “Bugaboo” knifeblade (Late 60’s); 9) Chouinard stamp-cut “Bugaboo” 2-hole model (early 70’s).
Row 4, Left to Right: 1) Chouinard 3” bong with lightening holes (early 70’s) [Note: Use a mirror to see the KB (Ken Boche) stamped inside the bong.] 2) Chouinard #5.5 Tube Chock (Early 70’s); 3) (above) Chouinard original #5 Hexentric (1971); 4) (below) Chouinard Polycentric Hexentric (1973 onward).
http://yosemitecloseup.com/stories/yosemite-news/
If you are a voter in California's 4th Congressional District, remember that it was McClintock that axed the proposed Visitor Center in Mariposa where a climbing history display could have been located. This would have helped local businesses and given climbing history a wider audience. PLEASE VOTE FOR JESSICA MORSE!
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J.F.
climber
MARIPOSA
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Ken and Lisa!
This is an awesome thread; great perspective and history.
You were right-on.. we already have a Jack LaLanne Power Juicer and two Foreman Grills.
Really, your wedding gift to us is absolutely spectacular, and we were just admiring it this morning.
It will always be cherished and is truly the crown jewel of our climbing collection.
We're very fortunate to be able to call you and Lisa friends!
We look forward to visiting with you folks, and seeing you around the Valley
Josh and Miranda
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2018 - 02:11pm PT
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Here's a picture of Josh and Miranda at their wedding.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Very cool! there used to be a cool museam at Devils tower with Fritz's rope soled shoes and some other bit of his gear from the FA and the stunt man rescue as well as some stuffed rattlesnakes and other cool tower hostory. It was all gone replaced by a cheesy gift shop when we were there in 2016
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