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billygoat
climber
Pees on beard to seek mates.
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Aug 30, 2010 - 10:27pm PT
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What Lambone said. Glad you two made the right decision in the end.
Oh, and billiegoat (no matter the spelling) is a horrible camp name or any kind of nickname for a girl. Seriously, they pee on their beards. How about Snow Leopard or some other majestic creature.
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billiegoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2010 - 10:38pm PT
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Lambone:
Your response made me feel fuzzy and nice, but most of all, encouraged. I've got the big wall fire in me. I told Jtree after bailing that I still felt badass just making the approach, in the dark Blair witch status.
Next step maybe some Washington Column action. Jtree and Billie go halfsies on a portaledge. It'll be like getting a dog together but better.
Much appreciation,
BG
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Aug 30, 2010 - 10:58pm PT
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Prolly 9 out of 10 Tower bailers never wall climb again. Be the 1!
And yes, the Tower approach is a bitch in the dark, even if you've done it before. I lol'd at the Blair Witch Project analogy. Definately been there!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Aug 30, 2010 - 11:27pm PT
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Pre-Spray is almost allways a bad idea.
Come to think of it, there did use to be some sort of manky fixed piece with a broken wire above that bolt.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Aug 30, 2010 - 11:33pm PT
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rawking!!!
BIGWALLLESSON#5: stand there long enough and your mind starts to play tricks on you. I looked at the ballnut, saw that most of the ball was showing and decided that it was a good placement. Bounced it, stepped up onto it, and then took a ride into space. As I was falling, it occurred to me that I knew that the ballnut placement was bad. I knew that the less of the rounded ball you see, the better. In this case though, my mind tripped me up and I made a bad choice.
This will carry you forward in that you will never, EVAR, make that mistake again. Since you didn't hit nothing on the fall, it was a good day.
keep it up
oh, and 'yer gunna die!'
cheers,
M
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Aug 30, 2010 - 11:41pm PT
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Ballnuts suck, a camhook almost allways works better.
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j-tree
Trad climber
bay area, ca
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Aug 31, 2010 - 12:15am PT
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assuming this is all true, i'd say by far that the most questionable decision you guys made was the one to pre-spray on supertopo.
@Ian Jewell
If posting to get info on a route that one is excited to get on is pre-spray, how can one elicit info without being considered spray happy?
Granted, being determined to walk to the base of a climb and see it yourself may come across as pig-headed, and continuing to be excited about the possibilities of being able to experience a climb even when others who have experience express doubt and misgivings can be seen as foolhearty, but I've always associated spraying with delusions about what one will do as opposed to being excited about what one could do.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Aug 31, 2010 - 12:18am PT
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pg1
We're doin' it.
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billiegoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2010 - 12:28am PT
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We're doin it = We're goin for it
I was excited and I wanted to think we could pull it. One day we will.
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j-tree
Trad climber
bay area, ca
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Aug 31, 2010 - 12:30am PT
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we're doing it
Can easily be understood as we're going to send it when taken out of context, understandibly.
I would hope though, that the rest of Billiegoat's posts would allow you to see that the same statement can be a response to being told not to try.
If she was spraying about sending it as a forgone conclusion, I don't think that it'd make sense in the context of her saying that we're completely prepared to bail if it's too hard/technical/scary/ or whatever else is an acceptable or unacceptable reason to back down.
Edit: BG posted faster than I could. Apologies for the multiposting
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j-tree
Trad climber
bay area, ca
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Aug 31, 2010 - 01:11am PT
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@ Ian Jewell
Imo, asking for beta is different from asking permission. In the same way, offering beta is different from offering permission.
Your own argument talks about the need for humility and perspective in action rather than words. Considering that the actions in this case concerned a willingness to back down if needed and the actual backing down, I find it difficult to find the part I would change next time out.
Unless our being willing to carry too much gear up a hill changes your day somehow? Or does our willingness to go look at something in the flesh (or rock) even if we've been told we shouldn't changes your climbing experience somehow? My partner and I got excited and then backed off when it got to be too much (or in this case, before it got to be too much). Should we no longer share our excitement with the ST community in your opinion?
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Aug 31, 2010 - 01:18am PT
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and don't worry if they call you "noob"
I don't see "noob" as a derogatory term. Nothing wrong with being a "noob" to anything. Everyone is a noob to everything at some point, there is only one way to become not-a-noob.
Whenever I talk to someone about bigwall climbing my suggestion is always to work your way up the trade routes before you get into the serious stuff. I have only been on a couple of routes that could be considered hard-ish aid, probably more moderate these days...and I was sure glad I had seen a lot to the stuff I'd been through on trade routes beforehand. Allowed me to climb with confidence and in better style (not the "best" style by any means).
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j-tree
Trad climber
bay area, ca
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Aug 31, 2010 - 01:37am PT
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The word noob is fine, though the context around it can change things.
I tell my students similar things in class, Everything you currently know started out as "I don't know" so don't worry about not knowing, worry about the steps you'll take to find out.
I'm glad that Lambone and others were able to point out the positive to be found. You should know that those things are appreciated.
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426
climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Aug 31, 2010 - 10:34am PT
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So, this is a TR of failure, a TR of learning, or just a TR. We’re happy with the weekend despite its unplanned result
We've all been there...sounds like a lot of lessons learned! And dont forget...
"If you want to climb it badly enough, you will. So... why bother ?" — Doug Scott.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Aug 31, 2010 - 12:51pm PT
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I think the #1 lesson of wall climbing is learning to roll with the punches. It's rare that things go exactly as planned. If you can adapt and continue smilling, even through a bail, then your ahead of the curve.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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You nailed on P1 of leaning tower.
BIGWALL LESSON #1 DO NOT NAIL ON ESTABLISHED CLEAN PITCHES.
Unbelievable.
Back to the boulders for you two, but with small nuts this time.
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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I really like the grim-reaper style photo of you pointing at leaning tower.
The beauty of this situation is that you got to have the mental (and physical) experiences that you wanted to have... puzzling over placements, testing/using the barely workable, and solving wall-specific logistical problems, all without having to risk decking on the first pitch of Roulette. Location, location, location...
Id say most agree that every time you push yourself on aid in the future, its going to feel just like leaning tower felt. Only as you get more tools in your bag you will learn that you can solve about any problem based on past experience.
Thank you for sharing your trip report. I think every one of us looks forward to the feelings that you're describing as we head into the next wall season...climbing slightly over our heads, puzzling it out, and walking the fine line between heading up and heading down.
-Kate.
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j-tree
Trad climber
bay area, ca
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You nailed on P1 of leaning tower.
Mucci, I'm going to assume you're talking about the tomahawk I mentioned. I hand placed that piece. No hammer involved. Does that still count as nailing? Or were you thinking of something else?
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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My partner and I are new to aiding and we're looking to climb Roulette This weekend.
Hilarious!
And the fact that you got shut down by the easiest pitch in the world makes it even funnier, thanks for the laugh!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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"Mucci, I'm going to assume you're talking about the tomahawk I mentioned. I hand placed that piece. No hammer involved. Does that still count as nailing? Or were you thinking of something else? "
Sorry for the confusion. Placed and hand placed are two different descriptions.
I hand place beaks on every route. Good you were thinking along those lines.
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