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steve shea
climber
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Apr 24, 2011 - 04:18pm PT
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Steve, I landed in Aspen in 67/68. Met Chris Landry on a construction job. We were carrying hod for stone masons on the 110' tower on the Chapel of The Prince of Peace. The two masons were alcoholics and fell off the wagon. They did not show up for a few days so the foreman gave Chris and I the job to finish. We finished up and drove to cali. We made a lot of dough so took off for the Valley that fall. The weather had been great and our first and only climb was the right side of La Cosita. The next day the weather crapped out and it puked. I think a meter of snow fell in the high country over night. We hung out any way and witnessed the epic rescue on SF Half Dome of Rowell and Harding I think. We were hooked on the valley though we realized we needed more experience. That next summer we climbed hard around Aspen and did our first wall together, D7 on the Diamond. After that we felt ready for the Valley and had some great trips there. We had an opportunity to go to Woodstock but stayed in Colo. to climb. We were on the Diamond while our friends were in NY
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 08:46pm PT
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Thanks for the background Steve.
Climbing or Woodstock...What a dilemma! LOL
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Wee Jock
climber
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Oct 21, 2011 - 08:35am PT
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Steve Shea ... did we not do Bridalveil together in 1976?? Did you take any photos? I gave up climbing ice after Bridalveil ... took to climbing snow-covered and verglassed rock instead as more ... intense! Saw you tumble down some ski-hill on Ripley's many years ago and was relieved to see you stagger up and stagger on down!!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Oct 21, 2011 - 09:48am PT
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steve shea mentions jack dorn. The same jack dorn as the pot plane crash?
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steve shea
climber
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Oct 21, 2011 - 10:01am PT
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Aye, Gordie me boy, good to know you are out there. I stumbled across this site not long ago after a long hiatus from all climbing. I'm now back in touch with a few old timers. My 12 year old twins have shown an apptitude for climbing so I've gotten off the couch, bought a new rope and have been teaching my kids the basics. Yes, we did the second ascent of Bridalveil Falls in Teluride in 76'. Mid Dec I think. If I remember correctly we cruised it, swinging leads on a very cold day. Each of us with twin "terrors". I've got photos. We drove my old Saab right up to the base. I have a photo of Larry and the huge fire he started with the Saab at the bottom of the route. If you want some photos I'll go through the archives. It's been awhile but I can find them. I last saw you in Chamonix in 77'. I remember we were planning a route you had spied on the Plan but the meter ran out on my plane ticket thus a sudden departure. In 78' I camped and climbed with Black Nick and got caught up with Gordon Smith stories and then lost touch. Now living in Wyoming and New Hampshire. If you come over get in touch. Let me know about the photos. Best,SS
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steve shea
climber
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Oct 21, 2011 - 10:02am PT
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Yup, same Jack Dorn. Great guy, taught him how to climb when he lived in Aspen , Co. Lou Dawson and I had a little climbing school then. I remember Jack as being enthusiastic!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2013 - 05:20pm PT
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I went looking for Larry Hamilton's chalk article and found this classic Aspen period piece in Climbing September/October 1974.
Brad Udall, John Searles, a fellow named Tony and I did the North Face route under normal conditions shortly after these guys had their fun. About halfway up we stopped to look over to the left where these guys had gone. After a short bit of discussion, an impressive a volley of rockfall swept the area.
I can still see a steamer trunk-sized block spinning its way down the wall clicking and grinding and smell the cloud of granite dust.
Point taken...
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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The north face of Capitol is in a gorgeous cirque, but it’s a long slog in, even in summer. Hard to appreciate how impressive this winter ascent was unless you’ve been back there. A grand adventure, indeed!
Wonder if Lou Dawson climbs anymore? He is a professional back country skier these days and his blog, Wildsnow.com, is excellent. Those Aspen guys of the 70’s, Shea, Dawson, and Kennedy, are remarkable in that they were world class climbers, and at the same time world class steep skiiers.
I believe that Dawson was the first to descend the other side of Capitol as part of his skiing the Colorado fourteeners project.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Michael is the man....climber, father, husband, writer and one of the nicest guys you'll ever meet.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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A recent tragedy in RMNP illustrates the dangers of winter mountaineering in Colorado, of the kind described in Kennedy's article on Capitol Peak. There is precious little tolerance for error or delay in such conditions.
https://avalanche.state.co.us/acc/acc_report.php?acc_id=499&accfm=inv
Condolences to the family and friends of the lost climber.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2014 - 10:30pm PT
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Bump for the better side of valor...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2014 - 01:03pm PT
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Christmas in Aspen Bump...
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steve shea
climber
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Dec 25, 2014 - 03:28pm PT
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Hi Steve
Ya Christmas in Aspen BITD was nice. I remember going ice climbing in Redstone on Christmas day. It was kind of a tradition for a few of us. Today in JH was one of the best I can remember for pow though! No bah humbug here.
Happy holidays to you! Thanks for keeping ST entertaining for non cali, old, over the hill alpinists. SS
Lou was the man Donini!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2014 - 06:25pm PT
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Keeping far flung and estimable stalwarts like you engaged on this forum is my pleasure.
I finally met Lou Dawson this year and he is as described and one impressive talent in a fabulous crew. Just add mountains...
So much perfect snow, so little time to find it. Glad you did.
Cheers!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2016 - 01:56pm PT
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A bump to get Shea back in the stadium...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2017 - 09:52am PT
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Shea bump...
A mutual friend Chip Chesteen told me some stories of going drinking with you where knee pads were standard issue for the trip home. Give new meaning to the phrase Pub Crawl. LOL
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steve shea
climber
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Jun 25, 2017 - 12:45pm PT
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It must have been a post climb drink up involving Barber. He brought drinking to a new level in the old mining town.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2017 - 08:54pm PT
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In the finest traditions of British climbing is he...
Sheridan Anderson drawing
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