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o-man
Trad climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Eric was a guide not a Ranger. Sorry for the misinformation.
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the goat
climber
north central WA
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O-man, I stayed with Eric in a house in Boulder for a couple of weeks in 76/77(?). Charlie Fowler and a few other guys were living there too. Chinese pull-ups were required after dinner activities before retiring to the roof with beer in-hand to watch the evening pyrotechnics. I didn't realize Eric spent the whole year (2?) there.
This might have been the same trip I did AF in Boulder Canyon with the illustrious Mr. Cilley, he might have been living in the same as well. Now we're really shakin some cobwebs...........
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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I'll never forget that Athletes Feat.
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o-man
Trad climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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the goat, Eric moved into Charlies house when he moved to Boulder. That was a very famous house and you never knew who you would run into when visiting.
Very cool times in Boulder back then.
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todd morgan
climber
vancouver
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Jun 15, 2011 - 12:38am PT
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I met Eric when I was sixteen in 1977.My brother Stephen was a friend and climbing partner of Eric's.Stephen passed away at the age of 27, months before Eric died.All I knew about Eric Weinstein for years was that he was my older brother's best friend,very sweet,rather eccentric,always polite,never leaving the house without complimenting my moms cooking and thanking my dad for letting him stay over. Eric never left my mind.He had a huge influence over the music I still listen to today.Finding out recently about his fame jarred loose a lot of beautiful memories of my brother and his friend.Thanks Eric.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2011 - 12:43am PT
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Todd,
Thanks for your post, very touching and sad.
If my memory serves me right, I recall meeting your brother Stephen more than once and had no idea of his untimely passing. Belated condolences and best wishes.
PB
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jun 15, 2011 - 12:48am PT
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sentry box.
great climb. one move in the middle. slight but real chance of hitting a slim but career-changing ledge.
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bmacd
Social climber
100% Canadian
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Jun 15, 2011 - 01:39am PT
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Eric really plucked the early plums of Squamish. One of my favorites was the * North North Arete 5.9 FFA Eric Weinstein, Dave Vernon 1973 - It's no epic, nothing but super fine splitters in a very cool setting. Vernon was my partner for it and he hadn't climbed it since the first ascent.
Thank you Eric !
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 16, 2011 - 03:33pm PT
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Thanks, Todd. I did quite a lot of climbing with your brother Stephen (we called him Steve), in the early to mid 1970s, but lost touch with him about 1980. I'm sorry to hear of his early death. Here are one or two photos of Steve.
Bump, for Eric and Steve.
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mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
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Jun 16, 2011 - 05:36pm PT
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Anyone remember who Eric did the 2nd ascent of the PO with? I seem to remember it was Dave Anderson and Erik Ziesche....
Dave Anderson once told me a story of getting one pitch from the top and taking LSD and camping for a day on the wall and being totally freaked. Seems to me it was the PO with Weinstein....
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 16, 2011 - 05:38pm PT
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Eric did the PO with Daryl, Greg Child, and another Australian whose name I forget. Spring 1977.
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mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
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Jun 16, 2011 - 05:42pm PT
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So much for MY memory... Ha!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 19, 2012 - 01:48pm PT
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Lunch yesterday with the Weinstein family, including Edward (father), Stella (sister), Sara (niece), Jason (Sara's spouse), Marlo (great-niece), Dave Nicol, and yours truly. A poignant occasion.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Feb 19, 2012 - 02:31pm PT
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I can still remember meeting Eric at the Washington Park Gym in Denver where I used to train fanatically while getting my Ph.D. in English lit and Classics at the University of Denver. Yes, Pat Adams used to frequent the place as did Olaf D. ('OD') Mitchell, who I believe posted above. I used to manage an apartment house known to its post-hippie residents as the "Yellow Submarine" where such great eccentrics as 'Crazy' Mary and Bob 'the Cat Man' rented little cubicles. Eric used to come over and party with me and Mary into the wee hours. And, no, Eric wasn't working in a creamery yet, but rather was scraping the killing floor of a local slaughter house with a shovel for a $grand a month. I can still recall vividly when his next door neighbor at another Denver apartment house snuck into Eric's room and stole all the cash he'd been saving for Yosemite that summer. This was just before I did my dissertation defense so had a lot of free time that spring for me and Eric to drive all over Colorado looking for new cracks to climb. One cold day that March we drove off into the S. Platte and found "Return to Forever" (5.10d) on the back of the Sphinx Crack Rock. We also did something Eric named, "Fingertip Control" (5.11a) above Split Rocks on the way to Estes Park. We were doing everything with hexes and stoppers and remember how Eric could hang out forever without weighting and still place those things very securely. We'd heard from Victor Creazzi in Boulder that the 'hardest crack climb in Colorado' was waiting to be done up behind Gem Lake on the Crescent Arch Wall in Rocky Mountain National Park. A whole host of people had failed on it before, so we drove up there in Eric's little Datsun with the Panda Bear sticker listening to Toots and the Maytalls' 'Pressure Drop' on a bubba deck. Eric did it first try and named it after the song. It sure wasn't the hardest crack in Colorado, but it was certainly a proud send for the day. I remember that I messed up on my area exam and had to do 'remediation' before DU would grant me my Ph.D. and let me get the hell out of there, so Eric started climbing and partying with Olaf while I worked as a night watchman at a singles apartment complex in the south of Denver (Sure wish I could get something like that today!) Ran into Eric later on in the Valley in the early 80s after he'd cleaned up his image and gone back to school, but that was shortly before he got sick. I remember saying to myself, Eric Weinstein has now gone professional! Wow, what a change! But he still seemed the same soft-spoken guy with an ironic sense of humor that I'd known four or five years before in Denver. I do remember that he seemed to be a very, very dedicated athlete who could climb cracks like no one I'd ever met before. He opened my eyes to new route possibilities. For someone who died so young, he certainly touched and changed many lives with his noble example and heroic deeds.
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the goat
climber
north central WA
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Feb 19, 2012 - 07:24pm PT
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Thanks for the update and bump Anders, wish I could have been there with you. I definitely see the resemblence with Stella and Edward. The more I think about Eric, the more I miss him and wonder what more he would have accomplished in his life. It's safe to say he made the most out of what time he did spend with us......RIP Eric.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 22, 2012 - 02:36am PT
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The account of the second ascent of the Pacific Ocean Wall in 1977, by Eric and Daryl (Canadian) and Greg and Kim (Australian). From Mountain 61, May 1978.
IIRC, it was then considered the hardest long rock climb in the world.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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May 22, 2012 - 01:05am PT
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Eric Weinstein Bump! Does anyone know much about the FA of Up from the Skies.. says in anders guide that they used the "a pitch a day siege tactics"
What a gnarly lookin line has anyone been on it?
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NigelSSI
Trad climber
B.C.
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Jun 15, 2012 - 04:05pm PT
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I finally got around to taking the photo Anders asked for. The few tidbits about Eric are pretty inspiring for me. Move just a few feet over, and a local crag is visible.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 15, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
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Thanks, Nigel - much appreciated. I forwarded the photos to all those of Eric's friends for whom I have e-mail.
Here's Nigel's photo of the church itself, Saint Mary's Anglican church near Fulford, on Saltspring Island. Eric is now buried there, near his mother.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jun 15, 2012 - 08:22pm PT
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I never knew him. Wish I had.
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