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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Jul 24, 2010 - 11:24pm PT
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The third 11d on Central Cottage is Killer Elite. Hard at the bottom and then continuous the rest of the way. We got on 12a last summer but
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 25, 2010 - 12:19am PT
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Never done Easy wind, Bob. Gotta get on it, been reccomended before.
Unlike that hippy, Werner, I always wear a shirt, on death crack...
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jul 25, 2010 - 02:07am PT
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Goldfinger looks stellar. Not 5.11 but definitely a front runner for a "Best 12 in Tuolumne" thread. Love the blue suede shoes in that shot as well. Full value BITD stuff.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jul 25, 2010 - 02:31am PT
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Jan - you mean Driller Elite - that wall gets a star just for the shade!!
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Jul 25, 2010 - 03:25am PT
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Al, it has been our new favorite wall the last 3 years, but I think Medlicott will take that honor this year. Shipoopi and another steep knob route in a black streak are on the agenda. Both in the running for best 11 in Tuolumne.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Jul 25, 2010 - 03:36am PT
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Seconding Handbook as up at the top. One of the few and far between Tuolumne splitters. Well worth the hunt.
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NinjaChimp
climber
someplace in-between
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Jul 25, 2010 - 03:49am PT
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It won't be on many other people's lists but it stands out for me because of the great experience I had on it...it being 'Soft White Underbelly' .11a on Pywiak Dome.
-Justin
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Jul 25, 2010 - 09:21am PT
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burning down the house- of course...
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2010 - 02:34pm PT
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Just back from a 2 day trip- did Death Crack, Handbook, Blues Riff, and Goldfinger among others.
Death Crack- pretty awesome route for sure- climbing, position, uniqueness for the area etc. I can't put it above sol or blues for personal issues- my knees are too big for #4 cracks....
Handbook- great crux pitch- junky top. Worthy for sure- but doesn't compete.
Blues- the first time I was on this I was way out of my league. This time it was pure heaven. I forgot how killer the position is and how beautiful the headwall is. Ellery bowl is beautiful (sol) but yikes- what a view from phobos/deimos. Oh yeah- the climbing is ridiculously good too. The beginning was not as dirty or junky as I had remembered. Bottom line- sol and blues are now tied....
Goldfinger- stellar stellar! but how did this end up in a thread about about the best 11? I know its rated 12a- but jeeeeez that route is hard. Clipping the bolt and the ensuing boulder problem exciting and great. The next 10 or so feet- which I'm assuming are the crux- powerful, sequential, and cryptic locks. Lots of big whips here for me as placing gear was, well you know. Eases to 10/10+ after but the sucker never really lets up! Maybe the best single pitch 12-? Haven't been on too many in tuolumne- ok this was the first. Are they all this hard/sustained? I am inspired.
Thanks to all- who knows when I might have gotten on death crack, handbook, or goldfinger if not for this thread!
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bob
climber
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Jul 29, 2010 - 08:27pm PT
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"Captain Fairview et al" 11a/b Fairview Dome. Good stuff.
Bob J.
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LithiumMetalman
Trad climber
cesspool central
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Jul 29, 2010 - 10:32pm PT
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Do or Fly is a blast!
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smoores
Social climber
San Francisco
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Jul 30, 2010 - 04:47pm PT
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Finally someone mentions Do or Fly! While not as amazing as Blues Riff, it's objectively easily as good as Tideline/Handbook/Black Angel, and better in my opinion. Also, the third of Sorcerer's Apprentice I did is rad (long story, but we bailed after the 5.11 pitch), but the single pitch of 5.11 on that route didn't blow me away like Blues Riff did - the crux is short, slabby, and slopey from what I recall. If we're talking 5.11 face, my vote would be the 2nd pitch of Shipoopi; although I'm assuming that the B-Y is of similar quality, I'm not qualified to vote on that one.
Edited: Threw out the wrong pitch of Shipoopi...
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jul 30, 2010 - 05:37pm PT
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Having spent over 100+ days there over the last 29 years, I feel I gotta weigh in here with my admittedly biased opinion.
1 ~ Speed Of Life
2 ~ Blues Riff
3~ Wailing Wall
4 ~ B & Y
5 ~ Shambles
6 ~ Sorcerer's Apprentice
7~ Blackout
8 ~ Arch Rival
9 ~ Immaculate Deception
10~ Scorpion
These are not in any specific order. They are all up there in term of quality & position. I am surprised that nobody has mentioned Arch Rival, Scorpion or Blackout yet! Those are great routes that would rival the best in any area. Shambles may be a tad dirty but the climbing is excellent & has alot of tough climbing over it's length.
Routes that don't count on the 5.11 list:
Goldfinger ~ always a 5.12 in most peoples book.
Shipoopi ~ The roof on pitch 4 is solid 5.12. Most people bail after the first three (5.11) but if you don't do the 4th pitch, you cannot claim to have climbed the route! Sorry!!
Heart Of Stone ~ Rated 5.11+ by some, rated 5.12a in the Falkenstein book. I did it in 1987 w/ Captain Buzzkill we thought it 5.12a for the pump factor.
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smoores
Social climber
San Francisco
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Jul 30, 2010 - 10:09pm PT
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Yeah Scorpion! Just got on that last weekend for the first time - was having a terrible day climbing-wise, but that thing felt hard!
Blackout was also really good, although I have no plans to ever lead it, so I tend to forget that it's out there.
And no, didn't do the 5.12 pitch of Shipoopi - both my partner and I are on the short side of 5 feet and we had heard that the last pitch was pretty reachy with kind of bad fall potential onto the belay. That's ok - the rest of it was incredible!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 30, 2010 - 10:16pm PT
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There are so many good 11's on our little crags in Ouray it would be hard to single out the top ten or so.
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Rankin
climber
North Carolina
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Jul 30, 2010 - 10:25pm PT
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I've done Blues Riff six different times. It never gets old. That wall looks so pretty with all those water streaks.
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Charlie B
Social climber
Santa Rosa, Ca
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Do or fly
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TripleS_in_EBs
climber
Poulsbo, WA
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Aug 13, 2010 - 01:31pm PT
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Blues Riff blew my mind - and I only followed it. What an amazing, beautiful route!
The "how did this dreamy thing get here?" flake/crack is visible by the black streaks above.
This thing is so steep that it's hard to get a good photo of someone latching onto the incredible flake that makes this pitch so, um... incredible.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Aug 13, 2010 - 01:34pm PT
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I don't think the OP is asking for the best 5.11, I think he wants a list of the best 11 routes in the Meadows. Man, have we let him down...
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