The Nose-Second Ascent 50th RR, Pratt ,Frost, Fitschen 1960

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Messages 41 - 58 of total 58 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2010 - 08:39pm PT
Those guys topped out last Monday back fifty years.

As part of the upcoming gathering, Tom Frost is going to be signing prints on Saturday afternoon at the Mountain Shop in Curry Village. In addition to his set portfolio, a set of select Nose prints will also be available signed. Royal has books to sign as well. The schedule should be available soon.

These prints are digital and very reasonably priced. Tom will also have some of his current portflio of fine art prints on hand. More on this portfolio soon.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Sep 17, 2010 - 10:02pm PT
this Saturday?
Sept 18th?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2010 - 10:45pm PT
No, Saturday October 23 as part of the Robbins, Frost and Fitschen Nose gathering. From 4 to 6pm as per the last schedule that I have seen.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2010 - 10:59pm PT
Reunion Bump! The latest schedule...

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1282982/50-years-ago
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2010 - 09:24pm PT
Big Event Bump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2010 - 12:25am PT
Two weekends away!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2010 - 09:42pm PT
Regularly scheduled Bump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2010 - 11:44am PT
And another...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2010 - 12:10pm PT
One week away!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2010 - 08:41pm PT
Four days away...Bump!
BASE104

climber
An Oil Field
Oct 20, 2010 - 09:44pm PT
Man, I sure wish I could make it to that event. An event to tie us back to that time when there were so many more possibilities in the valley.

The Nose might be the best rock climb on Earth.

I also find it damn amazing how fast they did the second ascent. You can still spend that much time up there with modern cams and stuff.

I can't see anywhere that Harding overbolted the thing, and the cracks are sculpted by the Great Spirit himself.

That must have been a magnificent (and may I add rather ballsy) adventure to just hop up there and do it in a push.

I only did it once, coming out of total retirement to do it with my brother in law, who had done only a handful of multi-pitch routes.

We had it to ourselves until an East German team caught us on the last pitch. It was the first East German team to do it, right after the berlin wall came down. Those dudes were STRONG.

And we got to the top and they shouted "Berg Heil!" with handshakes all around. Which I had heard before from americans but didn't know that the Germans really said it. Those dudes were unreal happy. So was I.

I'm sorry. The Nose is just an unbelievable route, no matter who you are.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2010 - 02:27pm PT
Proud Bump!
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Nov 5, 2010 - 07:17pm PT
A comment on Mimi's photo of Chouinard and Frost:

Yes, indeed, it is a Dolt photo, though it is shown "reversed" and it is of them as they began the East Face of El Cap. I have the original negs and even a two more (of Yvon) from the same ascent. I'll try to post them soon as "bumps" for this thread.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 5, 2010 - 07:34pm PT
Don, this one, that Steve posted (w/ Mimi's account)? To me, it looks like the base of the first pitch of the Nose, and the orientation looks right (a tiny bit of Sentinel Rock and Sentinel Dome faintly in background). It was printed this way in the 1975 Chouinard/GPIW catalog, on the "Chouinard Firsts" page 5. http://home.comcast.net/%7Ee.hartouni/GPIW/GPIW.html
(pitch location not exactly the same, but I needed a shot that was not from the morning to match the lighting a bit)

It will be cool to see the other photos you have!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2011 - 03:18pm PT
Bump for Dolt photos!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2016 - 04:36pm PT
Classic Bump...
aspendougy

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Jul 3, 2016 - 08:54pm PT
That photo of "Pratt in repose" is amazing!!

He passed on too early. It would have been instructive and interesting to see how he got started, and was able to do the 2nd ascent of The Nose after only three years of climbing. I wonder what he climbed, and how often, to get to that point in three years.

One thing I missed reading this before. I often think of climbing as being a highly individualistic sport, not a team endeavor. But Tom Frost yo-yo-ing up and down prusiking heavy packs to the point of exhaustion, doing the most unpleasant part for the team, that really says a lot about a man's character. What a great example
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2016 - 02:47pm PT
Tom Frost is the ultimate team player and the thought of hauling this way is heinous.
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