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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 29, 2010 - 04:21pm PT
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Thanks for posting, John.
Thanks for the writeup, Bill.
You did well to lower him unseen to the ledge.
Definitely good planning to have those 3 prusks with you.
And a very tough decision not to try to descend to him.
Could you have retrieved the other 2 prusiks if you had set up
an anchor with a Munter mule knot? (i.e. semi-standard belay escape).
It sounds like the main problem was no slack rope to create the Munter mule. With only the one sling, your options were very few.
Fortunately, what you were able to do with very little gear was enough to get him to the ledge; good thing he regained consciousness and got upright.
I hope Tom fully recovers - definitely a near fatality.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jun 29, 2010 - 04:53pm PT
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Whew, what a read!
Best wishes for a speedy recovery!
Whew!
-Brian in SLC
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Manjusri
climber
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Jun 29, 2010 - 05:56pm PT
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I'll add my thanks for the excellent write-up, and my wishes for a swift recovery. Definitely giving me food for thought on safety.
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John Black
Social climber
Boulder, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2010 - 11:44pm PT
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Bill reclimbed the route today and found a pretty clear indication that a hold broke in the exact vicinity of Tom's fall.
Details can be found here.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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donini may be pleased that the saving equipment was a #2 and a #3.5 camalot. Not quite his ideal #3 blue camalot, but very close.
Anyway, get well soon!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Ouch, Wishing you both the best outcomes
Peace
Karl
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yogiclimber
climber
NorCal
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Sending healing love and vibes to Tom for a quick recovery!
Mel
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ex-bouldergirl
Boulder climber
boulder, co
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Great goal
heal well...
take the time it takes
and pick up where you left off!
Sweet remarks by people who care: nice!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Wow.
Glad to hear both of you are on the mend.
Take care and get better!!!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, bill... was check in to see how your friend tom was...
will still pray...
*thanks for the link here,
wonderful to hear that bill's still there for tom...
god bless...
:)
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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That is a great write up.
I have to interject something here. I never wore a helmet unless I was in the Alps or BASE jumping with a camera. The rest of the time I let the wind into my hair.
Soloing on blotto, BASE, Walls, you name it. Never a helmet. Even ice climbed without one.
Now in my old age, I have a couple of friends who have received traumatic head injuries. It is awful. So that helmet may or may not have actually saved his life, but it saved his noggin, and let me tell ya, that is a lot.
So go wear your helmets even though you look like a gumby. A head injury is kind of like a massive stroke. I know people with one or the other, and it is very frustrating. The brain can recover to a point, but not all the way all the time. Or you could just be dead, of course.
I am so happy that he was lucid and will be out soon. Head injuries give me the heeby jeebies now.
100 pitches in a day is a hell of a lot of climbing. Even if they are 100 foot pitches, that is 10,000 feet of 5.9 and easier stuff. Over three El Caps. If the pitches are longer, it may be 4 or 5 El Caps.
The Eldo Ironman.
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hollyclimber
Big Wall climber
Yosemite, CA
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Tom - keep on hanging in there. You are in a world of hurt and it is going to be a long road, but you can make it! So many people are thinking of you and wishing you the best. I am so glad to hear you have made it this far.
Holly Beck
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Wow! Things are good until thet're not. Glad things worked out as well as they have
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eagle
Trad climber
new paltz, ny
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you guys are f*#king lucky as sh#t. stick to regular climbing.
now go play the lottery
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Is there a accident analysis thread I missed?
Or are people going to do that here in time?
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georgiegirl
Sport climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Wow what an intense experience! Mad props to Bill for remaining calm and doing as much as he could. Hopefully Tom recovers quickly and completely.
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Paulina
Trad climber
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Thank you for posting this detailed report, Bill. Glad to hear Tom will be ok. A very sobering story. Many many thanks to the rescuers.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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R-gold
I read your analysis on rc.com.
I though you were spot on.
I'm not sure what the etiquette is here anymore. Do you so analysis on the accident thread or start a new one.
Simul climbing accidents are rare. I would think it would be important to talk about.
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