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nature
climber
Tuscon Again! India! India! Hawaii! LA?!?!
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Dec 12, 2010 - 07:15pm PT
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Seen this before?
Who is the guy bouldering? MANY of you know him but not from Humboldt.
And a tougher one - who's the guy looking down (I've no idea!)
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senibar
climber
Bend, or
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Dec 26, 2010 - 09:38pm PT
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Hey Paul,
How goes it? This is Daniel, Humboldt '97-'00 ish.
I just saw a trailer from some new Northern California climbing video on 8a.nu. They are climbing on that big prow up at lost rocks and are claiming a FA, I could have sworn you had removable-bolted and climbed that a decade ago. Am I dreaming?
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senibar
climber
Bend, or
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Dec 26, 2010 - 09:40pm PT
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P.S. Jesus Christ, just saw your photos, that sucks.
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Disaster Master
Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2010 - 03:30am PT
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Hey Paul,
How goes it? This is Daniel, Humboldt '97-'00 ish.
I just saw a trailer from some new Northern California climbing video on 8a.nu. They are climbing on that big prow up at lost rocks and are claiming a FA, I could have sworn you had removable-bolted and climbed that a decade ago. Am I dreaming?
Hi Daniel!
I did indeed put up a route called "The Vanishing Line" on that fomation at Lost Rocks using Climb Tech's Removable Bolts.
Chris L. Put up a route on the harder side of the arete, although, in the vid, it looks like he climbs some on "my" side of the arete. No big deal. Chris used Fixe (?) removable bolts, which are like standard bolts, more or less. He took them out after a few months.
The hype (SPRAY) was a little fudged about "finding " what he was looking for, like no one had ever seen or climbed on the formation before. I wrote a reply about that which got published in Urban Climber, I think.
That's Publicity vs. Reality. Makes a cooler tag line.
Both routes are great. We tried to get the side Chris did long before him, but were not good enough to send at the time. (The bolts he clips on top were placed by me, replacing even older bolts that had been chopped.)
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Vgavinator
Social climber
Ladera Ranch, CA
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Feb 10, 2011 - 12:29pm PT
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I just scanned some old slides and thought i might post a couple
Another
and last
Hi Darryl I will get in touch with you.
Jeff
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goldencat
Trad climber
Las Cruces, New Mexico
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Apr 21, 2011 - 07:25pm PT
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Thanks for posting the article about Bob Crowell. I knew him well 20 years ago. I've often wondered what happened to him. I met him climbing in the Bay Area at Goat Rock. I visited Humbolt County many times. I was at one of those Joshua Tree New Year's Eves. I'll post a few photos from a trip to Smith Rocks in 1990, Bob Crowell, Bob Nolen and Terry Lyle.
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Nolen
Social climber
Bakersfield, CA
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Jun 22, 2011 - 11:47pm PT
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Love the photos, that was soooo long ago. Back in the days when drinking and climbing was the norm.
Bob Crowell is doing well, climbing more rocks with his truck than with his hands these days.
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Big Daddy B.C.
Trad climber
Palo Alto, Ca.
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RIGHT ON. Thanks Chris. Paul tell me whats up. The stuff all of you guys posted is so cool. The Smith rock pics where taken by a great woman and I thank you!!! I have to walk with a cane now. The neck has got a plastic vertbre and two plastic cushins with a titanium plate over the front. I still keep climbing ROCKS. Rock crawlin on the rubicon trail in my tricked out toyota 4x4. Live in Truckee Ca. Lots of snow this year so wheelin is tougher this year. How is Paul H.
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goldencat
Trad climber
Las Cruces, New Mexico
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Hey Bob and Bob! Glad you both found the photos and are still alive and kicking. That WAS such a loooooooong time ago to be sure. Good times.
B.C. - wow, sorry to hear about the neck. Glad you are still out there crawling over rocks though. You ever keep in touch with Troy?
I've been back in southern New Mexico for about eight years now. Haven't climbed in a very long time, but still get the itch to every now and then.
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His dudeness
Boulder climber
San Jose Ca
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Paul:
I was in Humboldt from 03-05 doing the college thing at HSU. While I was never a great climber or boulderer I still enjoyed trolling around the beaches for anything I could grip. I do vividly remember the day I met you, you had just had some surgery to remove lymph nodes and were recovering. I saw you playing a drum on top of one of the boulders at Moonstone as I was out there for the afternoon and ended up chatting with you for a good while as you watched me painfully creep through problems that you probably had no trouble with.
I loved my time up there and dug the fact that there were amazing climbers who weren't amazing a$$holes. The relative solitude of the climbing was also incredible, especially on those empty days at Lost Rocks. Even though I'm in San Jose now I still try to make it up for a few days a year. I haven't climbed in a long time, most of the routes here aren't too inspiring and it's a 45 minute drive to get to them. But whenever I do make it up into the triangle I bring my shoes and a chalk bag.
-Ian
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Disaster Master
Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 06:25pm PT
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I remember that day, Ian. Nice to hear from you. The cancer came back. Oh, well...
-Paul
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His dudeness
Boulder climber
San Jose Ca
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Sorry to hear about that Paul. Hopefully you'll be able to eradicate it once and for all.
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Rockmon
Trad climber
Arcata, CA
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Feb 10, 2012 - 12:04am PT
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RIP Paul. I didn't get to know Paul Humphrey well, but I knew him enough to appreciate the force of nature that he was in our climbing community in northern California. He has definitely left his mark. One of the first times I met him I had just groveled up a route he had set with Cedar Wright at one of our local crags, Castle Rock, called Buck Naked (5.12b) because him and Cedar allegedly got the FA while, well, naked. The climb is a long sustained pump sesh up sheer limestone with maybe one hold big enough to shake out on. Paul walks up, asks us what we thought of the route, then asks if we would mind giving him a catch on TR. Almost sheepishly he explains he doesn't want to lead it as he hasn't climbed in 3 months due to a broken back (he was notoriously injury prone, perhaps as a result of pushing his climbing beyond the realm that most of us feel comfortable). Somehow I realize this is someone who might take offense if I suggested that maybe he would want to warm up on something easier coming out of a long recovery like that. I figured this man knew his business. And he climbed the thing. I mean, the crux took him a few tries, but he climbed it. Man I was impressed. I have climbed in Humboldt for 7 years now, and am always impressed by the routes he has pioneered. It takes a special character to establish routes up here. You have to be willing to push your comfort zone, to get dirty, wet, and scared. I think Paul thrived in this. Thank you Paul.
Robin
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