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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2010 - 08:42pm PT
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Jaybro,
No, I haven't climbed outside much. I first started rock climbing with Blue at Castle Rock last year in July 2009. He showed me how to place a few pieces and build an anchor. Labor Day was my first ever trad lead in the valley. Climbed a little more through November in places like Tahoe and Jtree. Then winter and didn't climb again til May.
My first gym climb was last month cuz my friend needed a partner.
Radical,
I'm stoked to run laps on Reeds in the fall! Experience is cool/good which is why I'm trying to climb like a madman! Anything and everything!
Edit: ok I agree stuff outside the valley is rated harder than it is. Some 5.10s I feel are ego boosts at CRSP more than anything else.
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Jun 17, 2010 - 09:01pm PT
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There are no sandbags in the valley. It's the "Yosemite Decimal System".
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Jun 17, 2010 - 09:03pm PT
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Mason-
You simply encountered an "old school 5.9" which is a bit like getting zapped. Newer climbs sometimes take the overall continuous nature into determining a grade--how pumped you get--lack of rests, etc. "Old school 5.9" means that's the difficulty of the hardest move on the pitch.
You're moving fast up the difficulty ladder, and sometimes it's hard to realize that simply "making the moves" isn't the whole story. We've all gotten "gripped" by a climb(s) that were at our physical limits, and then start using more strength than we need, not breathing smoothly, rushing moves, and not recognising good rests when we have them. This is part of becoming a superior climber--learning to handle ourselves when we have "gotten in a bit over our heads." I've been there, as have most if not all of the others posting on this thread.
P.S. Try to ENJOY your climbs more; savor them like a fine old cognac.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jun 17, 2010 - 09:33pm PT
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I find that success at the grades in the valley is attributed to climbing a LOT in the valley.
Don't climb there for a month....5.8 feels hard.
Climb there for a week or two....no worries.
Dedicate your next 3 weekends to valley cracks, you might be surprised at how comfortable you will be on the sharp end.
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climbingbuzz
Trad climber
SF, CA
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Jun 17, 2010 - 10:08pm PT
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Dang, I thought Reed's was way hard the first time I led it. Super pumpy. I haven't been on it in a long time, but I bet there's plenty of 10a that feels easier.
I might have to go with Ahab or that squeeze on LA chimney. You really don't need any big gear on LA Chimney. I mean, come on, it's 5.9. So I get to the squeeze and I can't move up the thing and the gear seems way below me. Partner is wondering what the heck is going on as I start to lose progress and slide down. Turns out I had scared myself so far in the squeeze I couldn't move up. Once I scooted out a bit it wasn't bad.
Thinking more...maybe the exit pitch from the LA notch. It does say "not recommended" in the guide, but come on, how bad could it be? Well, it is the most sandbagged piece of junk in the Valley. Dirty, crumbly, mossy and one awkward scary wide section with no gear. At least that was my impression of it climbing it in the dark after doing LA direct as the season opener.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 17, 2010 - 10:29pm PT
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Jeeezz...people are saying Reeds is super pumpy. When you hand jam you use large muscle groups. Hand jams and using your feet equals 0 pump. Well, maybe not 0.
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jfailing
Trad climber
A trailer park in the Sierras
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Jun 17, 2010 - 10:30pm PT
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I didn't know Christopher Walken was into climbing?
It may initially seem that a lot of climbs in the valley are sandbagged, but it's just a much different style of climbing than you're probably used to. It takes a few trips to get used to it. I felt way more sandbagged at Joshua Tree than I have in the valley.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 17, 2010 - 10:32pm PT
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Whatever works, it's not pumpy.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Seriously, Man, I didn't know she was Your sister.
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Jun 17, 2010 - 10:36pm PT
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Sometimes Reputations make things harder, because you expect harder.
It's not really that hard, it just has a fat rep.
Just climb the line in front of you. Nothing else matters.
You tell me if you thought it was hard, after.
Cheers.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 17, 2010 - 10:41pm PT
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BITD it didn't have a reputation and that was before cams changed crack climbing forever.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Seriously, Man, I didn't know she was Your sister.
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Jun 17, 2010 - 10:47pm PT
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Agreed. When I started, you were Light if you couldn't Lead Reed's.
Some of us were still light, even though we could.
You decide.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 17, 2010 - 10:48pm PT
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The analogy to this post is Gunks climbers waxing on about "High Exposure."
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2010 - 10:53pm PT
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Brokedown - that's really good advice. I'm trying to slow down, work on my breathing, and concentrate on my feet more when I climb. I'll do my best.
Mucci, as luck would have it I'll be in the valley/tulalame for a few weeks in a row!
Jim, everyone - I tried to jam and stand on my feet so I could rest but two things would happen: the jams were more like cams in tapering notches so it felt harder than it should have been, and when I tried to stand on my left foot the crack spat me out forcing me to hang off to the right of the crack on my hand...It felt like a right leaning crack.
This must be due to lack of technique. Or at the time, I figured that is why everyone said it was pumpy!
Edit: I didn't even know it had a rep until after I climbed it. I just remember looking at it the first time thinking, man that's a cool looking line!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 17, 2010 - 10:55pm PT
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Memory kicking back in, Mason, you're right, weird jams makes it harder, keep on truckin and you'll be kicking butt.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jun 17, 2010 - 11:12pm PT
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gotta hang off yer bones instead of yer muscles Mason
That sounds weird, but it's true. He means to let your arms extend, not in the arm wrestling position, and use extension and locking off you arms.
Hard to describe on on a computer...Use low handjams, work you feet, and proceed.
I haven't done the route....now I have to.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Seriously, Man, I didn't know she was Your sister.
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Jun 17, 2010 - 11:14pm PT
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The Warbler is Wise.....I'd heed his word.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jun 17, 2010 - 11:30pm PT
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the first pitch is really only about the first move getting oriented in the crack, you gotta lean out there and swing a bit to get straight up facing the crack.
The second pitch is all about relaxing. Those are bomber hands and the one foot in the crack is just as bomber (for those that haven't been up there, the crack isn't really parallel but kind of "wavy"). It's steep, but really solid. For this one, don't do the Mark Hudon thing ("i'm badass"), do the Werner thing ("become one with the Universe, specifically at one with pitch 2 of Reed's Direct")
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 17, 2010 - 11:33pm PT
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That Bolte is pretty wise, too!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jun 17, 2010 - 11:36pm PT
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was one of my first .9 leads in the early/mid 70's, i had no idea how to jam, then...
Dang Jaybro, you laid that thing back?? Musta been hard to pro. You R the man!
Personally, I think the bouldering is stupid hard in Yosemite. I did, like, a V0- and thought I was gonna puke.
And yeah, Hairline by sunset. That will be nice. Crazy approach though (I don't think you can get to it from below.)
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Seriously, Man, I didn't know she was Your sister.
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Jun 17, 2010 - 11:39pm PT
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Aye, Jaybro. The Bolte knows, huh?
I'm listening. Oh, yeah.
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