Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
|
|
That cam on Edge of Night was in there last year. Did you replace the anchors on that rig??? The anchors on the second pitch of Chopper are total crap... Just FYI.
Generator Crack is way harder than Cream... which is 5.10b tops.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
Chad,
Yeah, the axle ends were getting a little light rust stains, but not too bad. Alexey found a description on Mountain Project where a guy mentioned it was in the crux in March this year. Looks like it could be hard to climb around it. It was very helpful to be on ascenders to remove it.
Roger is replacing the bolts on the routes in the vicinity, mainly the sport routes below it. There are 2 old bolts on Edge of Night about halfway to the chockstone. Only 1 bolt was shown in the 1982 topo, so I wonder if it was a protection bolt from back in the day, and a second one was added. Not sure.
I believe the only standard anchor on Edge of Night are the rap slings around the tree on top, which are good. There is also a sling around the chockstone belay; not needed for rapping if you have 2 ropes.
We will do all the anchors, including Chopper. I figured out how to bushwhack to the top of the crag, by reversing the descent on the right end of the crag. It's loose and dirty; I don't recommend climbing up or down it (there are rap slings on a tree above it for routes that top out), but think I can get up it a couple more times.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
Just out of curiosity are you guys going to replace the blind reach bolt on Chopper Flake if it is even there any more? One of the weirdest clips anywhere and likely not necessary since cams came along.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
Steve,
I'm not familiar with the blind reach bolt on Chopper - is it at the spot with xx in the 1994 topo, or somewhere else?
Generally, as you indicate, replacing bolts on wide cracks that were first done before cams is a tricky question, as gear often makes them unnecessary.
If the bolt was not original but has been there for awhile, then I believe the rule Roger uses is to leave it in place and not replace or remove it.
If it's original, the answer is harder; maybe also leave it in place.
If added recently, remove it unless something changed and made it badly needed (example: if only protection was in a flake that came off).
Tough question. Usually we don't like to deal with these cases - prefer obvious rebolting tasks where bolts are original and need replacement even with modern gear....
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2018 - 09:35am PT
|
update for broken image links
|
|
Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2018 - 12:13pm PT
|
is my feeling correct that old ST treads started long time ago much more interesting and have nicer communications than what is going on now , even on climbing treads?
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2018 - 12:32pm PT
|
I honed my wide crack skills there. One very wet spring day in the early 70’s we paraded down to Generator Crack as it was one of the very few dry places to climb.
We were young and eager and the fact that it kicked our butts did nothing to deter us. The rains continued as did the pilgrimages.
With endless repetition came hard earned skill...first left side in, then right. Climbing shoes gave way to sneakers and then came the inevitable solo.
The rains relented and some of Yosemite’s first 5.11 wide cracks fell victim to our new found skill.
A few years ago i took some bored looking young climbers from Boston who were festering in the cafeteria on a rainy day down to generator crack. I recounted my story of that rainy spring years ago. It was pouring as I set up the top rope. Thinking of past glories, I was trying to decide which side in and whether or not to wear climbing shoes...the solo would come later.
Discretion rulled and clad in rock shoes and left side in up I went....but not nearly with the effortless grace I remembered. In fact it became a real battle whose outcome was in doubt until I eventually found myself in the squeeze chimney.
“Wow...that was harder than I remember,” I exclaimed to the young Boston climbers who had already given their all which had not been enough.
Memories of past glories and present realities rarely dovetail.
|
|
tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2018 - 09:23pm PT
|
Alexy- I think you are right. I've also noticed that this site is turning into memory lane and not enough new stuff is being posted. I think we are getting old, not Donini, but maybe the rest of us. His story is about right. Generator is harder than we remember.
Maybe too, everyone knows the legends now. In the past we would have to hear stories of generator crack, and head down to find it. Now we all know where it is, so why talk about it? The internet is a crazy thing. Maybe knowledge was more fun when it was harder to get.
Are we watching Supertopo mature? I remember when people talked trash about it because it gave all the details away. Too much information was the complaint.
|
|
Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2018 - 04:47pm PT
|
to succeed on Generator you need stronger top rope partner and need to learn a command "up rope I am not moving!"
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!