Yet another Castle Rock Spire Attempt

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Esparza

Trad climber
Westminster, CA
Jun 8, 2010 - 11:46am PT
Bill, glad to hear you are safe and sound. Stoked on your beard brother, I haven't seen you in a while ;-)

Much props to Jordan.

An adventure indeed, the chopper ride looks fun!

Be well my friend.... Mike
Jordan Ramey

Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
Jun 8, 2010 - 12:47pm PT
Levy, skully, ana, mike: thanks for the kind words. The hike out was kinda stressful since I REALLY didn't want to get lost, snake bit, bear bit, or busted up since then we'd be in a pretty big pickle.

anastasia: "Jordan's beer consumption would be costlier than his weight in gold..."

A truer statement has never been uttered! ;)

Well, today the poison oak finally made an appearance. On both elbows. Not too bad though. I forgot to decon with the tecnu when I got down the last hill and sorta got preoccupied.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jun 8, 2010 - 12:49pm PT
deus ex machina?


kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Jun 8, 2010 - 01:26pm PT
Bill,

Hope the ankle is starting to feel a little better. Worry not, the spire isn't going anywhere - it'll be there for you later!

kev
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jun 8, 2010 - 01:32pm PT
Radish,
Why is your pilot wearing a flak jacket? ;-)
More to the point, I think he needs a second opinion
for his flight physical; dood looks like a walking/flying coronary!
Bill Sherman

Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2010 - 01:54pm PT
The guy that picked me up also told me they just did their recurrency 3 days prior to the pick-up. He then said if this had been a week earlier I would have most definitely spent at least one night up there while they were co-ordinating to get their training in.

The poison oak has made an appearance on me as well. Hands and forearms are the worse. I guess we took off our haz-mat suits a little early.

Again thanks for all the kind words. Clint, that sums it up.

I left a page in the summit registry notebook stating our attempt. Mooch, you should be receiving it either today or tomorrow. Good luck!
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Jun 8, 2010 - 02:39pm PT
I'll keep my eyes peeled for the "passing of the torch". Munge and I are hoping to hit 'Aspire' on The Fin the next day after The Reg. Route. I see the snow is still reaching up into the notch (thanx Rene). Should make for an interesting bivy up there. Photos and such to follow...
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jun 8, 2010 - 04:22pm PT
I like sleeping on ice. Makes my sack shrink before I ever get on the rock. Pre-emptive shrinkage.


Anastasia

climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
Jun 8, 2010 - 07:39pm PT
Good luck you two. I really hope you can map out that semi-trail. I have a feeling that Bill and Jordan will be returning for round 2.
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Seriously, Man, I didn't know she was Your sister.
Jun 8, 2010 - 07:44pm PT
Well, we're glad(I am) that you got the F outa there.
Munge, I like your ice line. Can I borrow that sometime?
Jordan Ramey

Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
Jun 8, 2010 - 09:53pm PT
an open spot to stop on our approach up the first ridge... which was the wrong ridge...


crucial gear for the CRS approach!
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Jun 8, 2010 - 10:39pm PT
I'm reading that you will be "replacing" the summit register because the old, original, historical scroll got weather beaten. I sure hope that you leave the original, old, historical one too. It IS the record of the ascents. I don't think that Clints, though good, is complete. I'm for leaving the original one up there and a new one too!! That historical climbing history scroll belongs up there and not in someone's climbing trophy case!!!!
Jordan Ramey

Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
Jun 8, 2010 - 10:41pm PT
I agree. The new summit register Bill put together and sent to Mooch is nice and waterproof, with a grease pencil that won't run and some regular shorty pencils. I put a copy of Clint's list in there and laminated it too.

edit to add: I wonder if the old original scroll could be "restored" by some professional or at least decrypted to figure out what was on it. There should be impressions from where people wrote on it. Just a thought.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Jun 8, 2010 - 10:57pm PT
I met the guys who found the old nearly illegible register last summer up at the Needles. Keesee was there too. They had it with them. I saw it and photographed it. Oddly the only readable names were ours. It was weird.


I wrote their names down, the guys who had it, but the info is elsewhere right now. Also maybe Guyzo has that too. Anyway it looks pretty far gone.

Radish, was that photo you posted above showing all that snow in the gulley taken recently? Last weekend? Thanks.
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Jun 8, 2010 - 11:12pm PT
I'm glad we're all on board with keeping the original scroll intact and left up there! Its kinda like not adding any bolts to an established route.
You never know what the future will bring..........
Kris.....The photo was taken this last Saturday 6-5-10 after we finished the South Face Route on Moro. Here's one that shows the Castle's better also taken last Saturday, can you see the guys going through the bushes?.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Jun 8, 2010 - 11:30pm PT
All of that snow does not really fit with Bill's description from his original post:

The approach up the gully required some scrambling and some more bushwhacking around the larger cliff bands. We were making fairly decent time up the gully and had covered the majority of it within the hour.

Also bill's pic of the injurious boulder shows no trace of snow despite the fact they were an hour up the gulley. I also don't remember any cliffbands in the main gulley. Is it possible they were off route, perhaps one gulley toward the west?

I'm not trying to raise any issues with Bill and Jordan here, just want Mooch and Munge to have the best info for their go.

And good news you all got out safely. I'd bet that is the first time someone has been helo'd out from there.
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Jun 8, 2010 - 11:43pm PT
I swear to the pic being taken last Saturday on my part. I'll bet your right about the first rescue from the Castles. I flew through the back towers last November, but no Heli rescues till this one. The only Climbing death in the front country of the park was at Hospital Rock when a guy fell free soloing the lunch ledge route back in the early 80's.
snaps10

Mountain climber
Visalia, CA
Jun 9, 2010 - 12:35am PT
Got a chance to fly through the Castles last November myself, beautiful ride.
Rene may know better, but you may not even be able to donate to NPS. I know it ended up being huge trouble when a swift water boat was attempted to be donated to a local Sheriff's SAR team.

Glad you got a good ride out and it was a non-incidental rescue. Heal up and hit it again soon.



See Rene, the SMR "curse" begins again. We're totally available and all trained up and SEKI gets the rescue...sigh...there's always next time. I'm thinking it may be a bad year. With the water running like it is, and the amount of people I'm already seeing in the river, we may just be bumping into each other soon up there.
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Jun 9, 2010 - 12:40am PT
Snaps, You guys get a Helicopter and you'll be in!
snaps10

Mountain climber
Visalia, CA
Jun 9, 2010 - 12:46am PT
We're working on it. We have the pilot already, just a few more bucks and we're golden, wanna make a donation? I'm heading up to Wyoming to teach a knots and ropes class next week. Let's get a couple routes in when I get back.
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