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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Nov 14, 2005 - 07:18pm PT
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Who did second of Wyoming Sheep Ranch? Native Son? Did Bongard solo Jolly Roger for 2nd?!?! THat is f*#king sick!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nov 14, 2005 - 07:31pm PT
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Yeah, Jake, that's right. Bongard soloed the second ascent. You can click here for [url="http://www.rockclimbing.com/ascent/index.php?AscentID=250"]a history of early ascents of Jolly Roger.[/url] Incidentally, you should put Jolly Roger on your Hit List, dude. It's the best route I've done on El Cap [and I've done 28].
Cheers, eh?
P.S. Sorry for all the bold letters, eh? It was a phase I was going through. My agreement with that website is that I will not edit anything. Incidentally, check out all the links in the post. I hope most of them still work. Cool historical information.
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yo
climber
NOT Fresno
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Nov 14, 2005 - 08:00pm PT
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Where's Deucey? He and X must've been pretty early on the Ranch.
And Native Son--doesn't the ST say the second drilled? (Too lazy to open a book that's eight feet away...)
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Nov 14, 2005 - 08:01pm PT
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oh ya like Tracy and someone... my guide book is right next to me but I don't have SuperTaco no more... it went somewhere... probably the Merced
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nov 14, 2005 - 08:01pm PT
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The bat hook holes on Native Son which were drilled around the A1 nasty bit had been filled when I soloed the thing in 98. Hardest damn A1 crack I ever climbed - it swallowed my 20-year-old #3 Friend. Sheesh.
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Nov 14, 2005 - 08:04pm PT
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Isn't it a f*#king squeeze??? Do 2nd ascent of Golden Blade to avoid! That var. is raddical looking!!!
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yo
climber
NOT Fresno
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Nov 14, 2005 - 08:08pm PT
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Pound an OE and get up in there and grovel like a bitch.
Deuce is like fifth of the ZM too. I'll bet he knows all this.
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Nov 14, 2005 - 08:29pm PT
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Pound two and free the whole pitch! HAHAHA
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Nov 14, 2005 - 08:45pm PT
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I don't know if they drilled or not, but Tracy Dorton and Rick Lovelace did the 2nd of Native Son. Rick started the route with Kurt Smith. I believe Rick may have whipped while they were fixing, or there is something that happend the scared Kurt away. Rick recruted Tracy and they finished the route.
How about the Shortest Straw, I think Steve Gerberding and Scott Stowe was the team.
Pete:
Sorry I missed you as well. I didn't get much time in the valley this year.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nov 14, 2005 - 09:14pm PT
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Yeah, Fish'll know about Native Son. I read on his website that he said Tracey drilled the holes. [link supplied on request to avoid hearsay]
I met Tracey last year. He climbed The Nose with the Bird and this loudmouthed black chick.
"First Black Lesbian Ascent of The Nose," she told me. [I sh#t you knott!!] Just about pissed myself laughing!
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Nov 14, 2005 - 09:21pm PT
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Think Xaver and I did the 3rd on the Sheep Ranch. FA on the Cyclops Eye Direct finish during that ascent, though, then did the second with Nathan Martin on an ascent of the NA years later.
Too bad Walt's not around--he was a reliable repository for all the info you're looking for. Me, I can barely remember all the climbs I did.
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mark_s
climber
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Nov 14, 2005 - 11:22pm PT
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Pace Maker, Vernao Magico (sp?), Sea horse(FA. Korean Sean?), Heavy Metal and tinker toys, Disorderdly Conduct?
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Nov 14, 2005 - 11:31pm PT
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Disorderly has been done for the most part. Sea Horse... HAHAHAHA, no it is never going to get finished. Sticky Rice is unrepeated in whole. But some of it has been repeated by Alik Berg and Scotty V.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2005 - 05:45pm PT
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So my unofficial tally shows 25 or so unrepeated routes.
that's roughly one fifth of the routes on El Cap! A few more possibles:
Chinese Water Torture
Squeeze Play
2nd ascent,Bad Seed - Steve,Scott,Dave
Flight of the Albatross - Steve,Harpole
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Nov 15, 2005 - 05:49pm PT
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Chinese has been done
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Russ Walling
Social climber
NOT FOR LOAN™ CC3
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Nov 15, 2005 - 06:01pm PT
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Squeeze Play... Hmmmm... can't remember.....
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Nov 15, 2005 - 06:46pm PT
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So which f*#ker is going to step up and do 2nd of Nightmare, Drift, Everyman???
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sr
climber
Bay Area, CA
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Nov 15, 2005 - 08:09pm PT
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2nd ascent, Lurking Fear- Alan Bartlett and ?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nov 15, 2005 - 08:10pm PT
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I seem to remember hearing somewhere:
"Continental Drift? Hmph. Rivet fest." True or not?
Hey! Is Pacemaker really unrepeated? Please verify. If so, I'll make the second ascent next spring with my partner Tom.
Russ: Answer the question six posts above you.
Jake: Shut up and climb. I need a partner this spring for something hard. Interested?
As for Korea Sean:
Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!! His new route, upon which he has been working for a year or so[?], has a high point roughly corresponding with the top of P8 of NA Wall. Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!!! He riveted above the roof to the left of P5 of NA Wall!! Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!!!!
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Nov 15, 2005 - 08:30pm PT
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Pete I'm gone this spring and all summer. I'm takin my climbin else where. I'll be in the valley all of December... at least ragin at Coilers is fun when not on wall. Pete do you realize how much beer we would have to haul??? El Cap in winter... F*#k yes!
Sean is super nice guy, but his route... and ropes...
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