Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Josh Nash
Social climber
riverbank ca
|
|
|
May 17, 2010 - 04:24pm PT
|
along cosmics line I have buddy who buys whatever shoe fits best and then gets them resoled with stealth c4 rubber. so you get the stickiness of five tens with shoes that fit.......btw I have the v mile and dig them. they are the only velcros that dont hurt my feet..
|
|
FeelioBabar
Trad climber
One drink ahead of my past.
|
|
|
May 17, 2010 - 04:39pm PT
|
Acopa for life!! (resoled with stealth C4)
|
|
Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
|
|
|
May 17, 2010 - 06:20pm PT
|
Just got my old pair of EBs with home made leather tops resoled in Stealth. Killer dude!
(Ok, so they are a little old tech, but what the hey ;-))
Edit:
By the way, I resole everything. I've even been known to resole my all water Alp sandals in Stealth. Way cool.
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
May 17, 2010 - 06:44pm PT
|
I used to know a guy who resoled the toes of his cowboy boots with stealth rubber. He showed up at Gunsmoke (in Josh) dressed for rodeo, watched for a while, then said enthusiastically "That looks like fun, I gotta give it a try!"
He cruised across and walked away leaving the assembled climbers slackjawed.
On topic, I hate to see folks callin' Chas Cole names on an internet forum where you know he will not show in self defense. Shoes come and go. Chas reinvented climbing rubber and did some bad assed climbing too. I would think that if someone had a problem with him personally they would take it up with him personally.
Charles used to give me shoes. Back when that really made a difference to me. We didn't see eye to eye on everything, but who does?
Two words: Jolly Roger.
Ahoy Matey!
|
|
Gene
Social climber
|
|
|
May 17, 2010 - 06:59pm PT
|
PAs with C4. Yee Haw!
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
May 17, 2010 - 10:10pm PT
|
I haven't tried a pair of new Newtons yet... but my pair of Aztecs just came in, special made to match the different size of my feet, size 10 on the left, 9.5 on the right, perfect fitting shoes.
No other company but Acopa, that I know about, makes shoes for you... that fit your feet.
I also agree with Elcapinyoazz and steelmnky shoes get worn and are replaced, companies come and go, shoe models too...
...not sure how it affects my climbing, not much I'm just not that good. But having shoes that fit really makes me feel good on a climb, not pain to deal with... And having them last, as the Newtons, Kaukulators, Aztecs, Chameleons, and I hope the Legends, have is important.
That said, 5.10 is an awesome company that has produced a good product for a long time... it's a tough business, climbing equipment... and we should be thankful that people are interested in actually producing the stuff we need to pursue our passion.
|
|
Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
|
|
|
May 17, 2010 - 11:03pm PT
|
I climbed in 5.10 shoes for years. The Friction Loafer, original Altia and the Newton were my favorite models. However, for the last several years, they haven't made any shoe that I like. So, these days its the TC Pro for me.
Curt
|
|
AllezAllez510
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
|
|
|
May 17, 2010 - 11:27pm PT
|
Does it matter? Find a shoe that works for you and keep buying 'em.
Five Ten is the SH!T No other shoe comes close for me.
For me, the Moccasym is the best crack climbing shoe ever made...well, for thin hands to fists anyway...
The Anasazi lace up is the best face climbing/edging shoe out there. FWIW, I find the current verde to be superior to the Blanco...but that's me.
Look at virtually all of the top end climbers. All of them with perhaps the exception of two or three climb in Five Tens...or Sportiva.
I'm sure they could all still climb 5.13 in Air Jordans, but that's not the point.
|
|
Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
|
|
|
May 17, 2010 - 11:42pm PT
|
Sliptiva?
no way
one drop of water and your toast.
|
|
Oxymoron
Big Wall climber
total Disarray
|
|
|
May 18, 2010 - 12:33am PT
|
My Ballets feel good with Stealth on them.
|
|
Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
|
|
|
May 18, 2010 - 02:47am PT
|
Charles Cole is a standup guy and a long time friend, Five Ten Rules. . .df
|
|
Brian
climber
California
|
|
|
May 18, 2010 - 02:49am PT
|
Anyone here tried the Grandstones (5.10 high tops)? How about it all you OW types, any reviews?
Brian
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
|
May 18, 2010 - 03:32am PT
|
I was a sponsored climber for 5.10 for perhaps decades now...Was pictured in the original five -tennies (Remember the old silver with the black X?)Soloing the Jaws at Woodson, (in matching silver lycra no less, gah!) For the first Five-Ten ad in Summit Mag. (Now defunct..) I've always preferred their rubber and to me Charles was and will always be a respected friend! I still have Ascents and Huecos that I'm still using to this day. Wouldn't use any other boot myself!:) When I wasn't climbing barefoot...
|
|
Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2010 - 04:45am PT
|
"The first time I wore an Anasazi lace up I honestly screamed out loud "this is unbelievable"
That was my reaction too Jo. I loved those shoes. I was a better clilmber with them. The rubber is perfection and the fit perfect. Then the sizing changed around '07 or so and I couldn't get the same fit.
"You'd be foolish to try to do that by mail order."
John, I hate having to order online but my local climbing store (A-16) and Nomads don't carry the Anasazi's. They're hard to find in stores (at least here).
|
|
froodish
Social climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
|
May 18, 2010 - 05:14am PT
|
Can't say I agree that anything went wrong. I've climbed in nothing but Five Tens since the green Vertical days
Currently running Prisms and V-Miles and love them both. My latest Guide Tennies have lasted through a hard 2+ years and are still going strong.
+1 to Charles being a standup guy too. I've had nothing but stellar service from Five Ten.
|
|
chiindi
Big Wall climber
Lakeview, OR
|
|
|
May 18, 2010 - 07:22am PT
|
In 1974 EB's & PA's were the choices, and you wore them on the walkup. RB's worked better for me on hot rock of MARGINAL on glacer point apron.You guys have too many confusing choices now. Do you need a haberdasher to outfit you for a climb? I had bib overalls, a swami belt, a handfull of beaners, a wad of runners, 2 ea 11mm & 9mm haul rope, 6 rurps, a few pins & a hammer, a skyhook. No helmets, harnesses, or other 'safety' stuff. If you needed it, you made it. Chounard was the gear to have, because it was the only gear around good for Yosemite. Lowe was doing mostly ice gear. Chalk was a NO NO. It leaves greasy slimy crap on critical holds.
Who needs a guidebook? ...just follow the chalk smears.
|
|
AllezAllez510
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
|
|
|
May 18, 2010 - 09:12am PT
|
"In 1974 EB's & PA's were the choices, and you wore them on the walkup. RB's worked better for me on hot rock of MARGINAL on glacer point apron.You guys have too many confusing choices now. Do you need a haberdasher to outfit you for a climb? I had bib overalls, a swami belt, a handfull of beaners, a wad of runners, 2 ea 11mm & 9mm haul rope, 6 rurps, a few pins & a hammer, a skyhook. No helmets, harnesses, or other 'safety' stuff. If you needed it, you made it. Chounard was the gear to have, because it was the only gear around good for Yosemite. Lowe was doing mostly ice gear. Chalk was a NO NO. It leaves greasy slimy crap on critical holds.
Who needs a guidebook? ...just follow the chalk smears."
Recently, in the sport of surfing there has been a movement to rediscover older board designs. First, it was the 'retro' fish and bonzer, now we have people asking us to shell out $500 for koa wood boards that could easily be made by any woodworker. The fish is the one of the best board designs out there, the wooden alaia, like the ones Ancient Hawaiians rode...er, not so much.
My guess that this similar "back to basics" trend will never happen in climbing. And the "retro-trad" thing ain't trad. If you climb it on bolts or suss it out on TR first before leading on gear...that's not trad.
All things being equal though, I'll take my modern equipment choices and leave the retro tools to you.
|
|
10b4me
Boulder climber
Hell A
|
|
|
May 18, 2010 - 01:51pm PT
|
always have liked the rubber, but not necessarily the shoe.
my two biggest complaints are the sizing, and the construction quality.
I use to love the Mountain Masters for approaches. However, the toe piece always delaminated. In fact, the toe piece delammed on the first day after climbing on a 5.3 route.
Right now I am using the Camp 4, and it seems to be better constructed.
I have switched over to the LS Miuras, and Katanas(a fantastic shoe).
Five Ten has gotten bigger. They are into water shoes, mtn biking, trail running. I think they are making mtn biking tires also, but not sure.
Maybe they have lost there way.
wanted to add the 5.10 Mojaves were one of the most comfortable shoes I've worn.
|
|
Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2010 - 02:28pm PT
|
If you like the 5.10 Gambits, go to steepandcheap.com right now. They have them for $49.99. They've had them on sale there on and off for the past couple weeks, which means there's an overstock. 7 minutes left on the sale clock (if you know steepandcheap you know what I mean)
Their write up:
Five Ten Gambit Climbing Shoe - Men's:
Five Ten blends comfort and performance in the Gambit Climbing Shoes.
Five Ten Gambit Climbing Shoe - Men's
Five Ten created the Gambit Climbing Shoes to provide climbers with all-day comfort while maintaining the performance you need to take on technically demanding pitches. Slip into these lace-up shoes for a long gym session or multi-pitch trad route. The perforated synthetic upper keeps your foot cool while the sun beats down and heats up the rock. Of course, the Gambit Climbing Shoes use Five Ten's ultra-sticky and incredibly durable Stealth Onyxx rubber to keep you on dime edges.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!