I can't see the appeal of doing so many pull-ups. Never did more than about 25 at one time; saw no correlation with either gymnastics or climbing. But people do get attracted to very unusual challenges, so go for it, I guess.
Bachar describes somewhere, quite possibly on this site, doing large numbers of pullups, realizing that they were not particularly relevant to his goals, and so changing his routine to emphasize strength more than muscular endurance. And yes, there is quite a difference. For example, I once encountered a guy who could do 100 two-arm pullups but not a single one-arm pullup.
High rep pullups, or high daily maximums, might yet be relevant to very long free walls and enchainments, where less than body weight pulling goes on for many hours.
Today, the 24th of December 2010, would have been Alex's 52nd birthday. We have a special day of remembrance for him. Jenni is loving her art, Max is an expert skier and keen photographer, Sam is starting at Montana State in the film program and has a fiendish work ethic and Isaac is mr junior scientist. You would be proud.
We visited Black magic, one of your favorite mixed routes yesterday and thought of your vision for ice climbing and willingness to push the limits.
Pull ups aside, your true measure was the friendliness and happiness that permeated everything you did.
"If you want a better understanding of exercise physiology, see
Textbook of Work Physiology by Astrand & Rodahl."
Very interesting. This work was copyrighted in 1970. I picked my copy up off a sidewalk here around 2004. Browsed through it a few times. Some pretty interesting stuff.
Aspendougy is on target about not hanging at full extension. Two or three days of that and you will have dislocating shoulders.
Secretariat during a physiological exam after death at 19 had a perfectly healthy heart 2.5 times the size of a normal race-horse's. The Lance Armstrong of the equine world.
Got to spend a fair amount of time with Alex Lowe when he would come to anchorage for various climbs. Couple or so obeservations.
Like everyone says he was an absolutely pleasant person to talk to. Glad to tell stories and answer questions.
As I got to know him a little some things stood out to me. Not only was he a very highly skilled climber and mountaineer in all skill and knowledge areas. The man was willing to take pretty extreme risks. Far more than i would ever choose to take regardless my mediocre skill levels.
He was well aware of the risks and he seemed ok with the very possible outcome.
He loved caffeine!!
I was asking him about the possibility of skiing various Everest routes. He mentioned that some seemed reasonable but the altitude would be the main problem. Skiing 50deg slopes wasn't too big a deal but passing out after a turn might be deadly.
So I asked him if he could do it.. being a renowned performer at altidude and most certainly an excellent skiier. He said he wouldn't because he had passed out on the summit ridge without Os. I was a bit shocked.. didn't know that everest had pushed even him that hard.
So maybe Veisters has even better genes or maybe Alex was just having one of those bad days at altitude that particular trip. Dunno..
I saw an interesting example of the utility of strength on top of technique in a bouldering video a year or two ago. (Sorry, it was in the gym, I have no idea what the name of the video is.)
In this video, Sharma and Graham were trying an obviously fierce roof boulder problem that required the feet to cut loose at one point. Sharma could do it; Graham could not. The difference was that Sharma could lock off on one arm and hold it locked as his body swung out, whereas Graham could not, his arm straightened, making his body a longer pendulum, the extra length being enough to throw him off the holds at the end of his swing.
The critical difference for this move was one-arm lock-off ability. But I did wonder whether Graham could have compensated by tucking hard when his feet cut loose, in which case one might say that technique compensated for "weakness." No way to know, since he didn't try that on camera.
Secretariat during a physiological exam after death at 19 had a perfectly healthy heart 2.5 times the size of a normal race-horse's. The Lance Armstrong of the equine world.
I knew Alex and Jennifer ,was lucky enough to work with both for two different seismograph companies, two of the nicest people you could ever meet. Last time I seen them, was in Rifle CO, where they took me to the hospital in the middle of the night, had to get my knee drained. I miss them and the glory days of portable seismograph. His memory will always be cherished. Hello Jennifer if you read this. Tim and I are doing good,working as electrical inspectors in the oil and gas industry. All the oil and gas we found is paying us again. Alex was one of the best people I have ever met,
RIP my friend.
Forget that! Do as many as you can, taking three seconds going up, hold one second, then three seconds going down for the burn, better for climbing power!
Back in 1977 I built up quickly do be able to do a sustainable 1,000 pullups in an 11 hour period. I would do ten and then walk around a small field and then do ten more and ten more...... I did the same thing before a 1975 attempt. On the climb I was indefatigable. On the first day, after 2 or 3 fixed pitches, I went all the way to the ledge on the 11th pitch. I could also do one-arm chins, but hadn't bothered with them for awhile, I wanted endurance to see me through.
Do as many as you can, taking three seconds going up, hold one second, then three seconds going down for the burn, better for climbing power!
I like this idea! I recently started doing pullups for the first time in 7 years. At the moment I can do 8. I am focusing on doing them slowly with good form, and going ALL THE WAY DOWN with arms straight before slowly doing the next rep. None of that herky-jerky pseudo-pullup CrossFit nonsense.
Wow, Hardman, that vid is amazing. What a dopey thing to do. But I've read that it's not good to fully extend for pull-ups. I now go most of the way but keep a slight bend. I've never hit the magic 20, but mid--upper teens is usually doable. Thoughts?
Let us know!