Third Pillar of Dana Appreciation Thread

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Risk

Mountain climber

Olympia, WA

May 10, 2010 - 01:50pm PT

LithiumMetalman

Trad climber

cesspool central

May 10, 2010 - 02:01pm PT

Just make sure to rock-paper-scissors for the last pitch ;-)

Crimpergirl

Sport climber

Boulder, Colorado!

Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2010 - 02:16pm PT

Mmmmm Fish tacos Mmmmmm!

Karl Baba

Trad climber

Yosemite, Ca

May 10, 2010 - 02:27pm PT

My guess is that a 5.8+/5.9 leader would be very sorry to attempt to lead this route but might have a gas following it with a good leader. There are consequences to falls in places that are tricky, routefinding is tricky, and even the descent to the base is sketchy.

If you know your stuff, awesome and beautiful. Note: Seems to start out warmish in the sun and get colder than you expect in the afternoon.

peace

Karl

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

May 10, 2010 - 02:40pm PT

> try some of the unlisted variations. The climbing gets much more interesting, and challenging, very quickly.

Good point. I have done the lower/middle part on the far right and far left, but the middle way there is 5.10 and looks like it has some good parts. I guess I was just not feeling that strong the 2x I've done it.

> I view the 3rd Pillar as kind of a choose your own adventure: you can find other paths to the top, rather than the commonly trodden pitches...

After Six is similar, I suppose.

When I think of really compelling routes, they only have one way up, like a single crack or line of face holds with blankness [or much higher difficulty] to either side.

snowhazed

Trad climber

Oaksterdam, CA

May 10, 2010 - 02:41pm PT

I absolutely love the Third Pillar- I have, and will continue to climb it over and over and over again.

That said- I agree with Jim and the rest that this is hardly the best multi-pitch in Cali. In the top 10 maybe, and definitely in the top 5 'multi-pitch, alpine granite, 5.10 routes in Cali'.

Red Dihedral, Positive Vibes on the Hulk, and Western Front on Russell are all dramatically superior.

The snow field will be in full effect this year on the approach- have fun!

wbw

climber

'cross the great divide

May 10, 2010 - 02:57pm PT

The Scenic in the Black is my personal favorite, but the rock is not as good as on the Red Dihedral, or the 3rd Pillar.

Mugs Stump once told me that he thought the Casual Route was one of the couple of best rock climbs he ever did.

Karl Baba

Trad climber

Yosemite, Ca

May 10, 2010 - 04:18pm PT

Hi Cragman

edited my post as well.

PEace

Karl

Norwegian

Trad climber

Placerville, California

May 10, 2010 - 04:46pm PT

oatmeal stout.
warm and golden sierra granite.
a slight breeze.

sounds pretty nice.

mission

Social climber

boulder,co

May 11, 2010 - 09:18am PT

The Third Pillar of Dana is way better than the Scenic Cruise. First off, the Scenic Cruise has no beautiful approach hike to get the blood circulating. No alpine flowers awaiting the morning sun... no race against the afternoon storm...

Then there's the poison ivy. And the loose rock. The altitude is so low it doesn't even feel like real climbing. The occasional Coors Light can tossed by some western slope redneck going tink...tink...tink...down the face. The guardrail at the summit. The oppressive heat.

Sure, the Scenic Cruise is longer and has more difficult pitches. But you can climb more hard pitches in a Saturday afternoon at the Boulder Rock Club. The question is, which climb speaks to the spirit of an Alpinist?

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

May 11, 2010 - 09:45am PT

Mission, you and I must come from different solar systems when it come to our views on climbing.
I've climbed the SC a half dozen times and haven't found any loose rock. The Third Pillar is a fine afternoon frolic but the SC is far more of a real climbing experience.

BrassNuts

Trad climber

Boulder Colorado

May 11, 2010 - 10:32am PT

Good points Mission. I think I'll set my cruise control for the Sierras rather than the Black. Third Pillar of Dana, here I come!

Oh yeah, eating Lee Vining fish tacos is certainly more pleasurable than fighting groves of poison ivy.

east side underground

Trad climber

Hilton crk,ca

May 11, 2010 - 10:41am PT

ok, I guess I owe Cragman a apology, Cragen not cragman it's hard to tell when your about to fly off the road at 65 mph. Sorry cragman for the mistake. p.Linaweaver

Karla

climber

Colorado

May 11, 2010 - 07:40pm PT

Hey Crimpie, thanks for starting this thread. It brought a big smile to my face remembering a beautiful day out climbing with The Mission. It perhaps wasn't so fun for the couple who bailed after the ~3rd pitch and then did the hike out...and maybe it wasn't so fun for the 2 guys who started ridiculously late and then had to bail after the 1st pitch and the hike out, but we had a blast.

Can't wait for your trip report!

J. Werlin

Social climber

Cedaredge, CO

May 11, 2010 - 07:54pm PT

I don't know about the Cruise--I got thirsty up there and the river was kind of loud and annoying to shout over. At least on the Pillar you can traverse off and melt some snow. . . .

BrassNuts

Trad climber

Boulder Colorado

May 11, 2010 - 09:58pm PT

Yeah, chowing down on Lee Vining fish tacos after the Third Pillar beats slogging down poison ivy filled trenches anyday.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

May 11, 2010 - 11:28pm PT

I almost forgot the photo request - here are some from climbing it my 2nd time, with Wayne Burleson, September 11, 2005.
first pitch; you can stay close to the arete above via the 5.10 variation; we went off left where it's easier.
(photos of middle pitches left out, because they're not so spectacular - I can post 'em if you really want...)