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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Surv, see all these questions... this is why an SG ascent of WoS would be so interesting. Captain, I think we have enhancements!!
as in so many things,
"I have set my life upon a cast,
And I will stand the hazard of the die" Richard III
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Survival, it is obvious by your post that you are unfamiliar with SG's history of hard, dangerous, runout and often unrepeated climbs.
I would venture he has one of the best heads around for this.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Mister E, not true.
I'm not "unfamiliar", but I don't know every detail either.
I would venture he has one of the best heads around for this.
Then quit talkin' and start climbing.
I have a lot of respect for Steve, but he better get busy before he can't get out of his walker.....
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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With the exception of the FA. It's all petty grudge smack talk.
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MTucker
Ice climber
Arizona
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Have to agree with Lovegasoline.
WoS reputation can only go up. Others rep can go up, down or even.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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I say do it!
Nice to see a detailed SA of that rig. Seems hard. Be safe, Steve!~
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Prod
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2010 - 07:22pm PT
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Can't wait to hear about your fall asscent Steve. Good luck.
And Crowley is back!!!!
Cheers,
Prod.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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40' carbon fiber cheater stick with remote camera and multiple hook deployment system
Just sayin'.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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All of us are older now so I'd be willing to pitch in on an effort to fund a pair of these for Steve's SA:
...and of course he's going to need a good micro-chisel, so maybe one of these as well:
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 13, 2010 - 06:02am PT
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> WOS is a climb, it deserve respect until someone repeats it.
> So far no one has.
In 1996, Rick Poedke and Thor Pelot climbed to the top of p9, i.e. the entire "Great Slab" portion with the runout hooking sections.
Rob Slater climbed the first 5 pitches in the 80s (I'm not sure what start was used).
Ammon McNeely climbed the 2 pitch left side start in spring 2006, and maybe 1-2 more (it's hard to find the exact answer in all the posts...).
Pete said Ammon took 3 50-foot falls on those first 2 pitches.
There are 4 more original pitches after the 9 slab pitches: A1, A3+ heads, A3+ heads, unrated bathook traverse.
Probably hard enough, but not the hooking stuff that is most interesting about the route in my view.
If Steve is going to get up there and explore it, that sounds like a good way of finding out what is there.
It sounds like it would be an intense hooking / runout / falling challenge.
Such an exploration may not answer historical questions about what it was like on the first ascent.
For example, edges may have broken off, or later attempts may have added batholes (like on Jolly Roger).
There may be risks not worth taking up there, as Pete described on the original second pitch of a long runout above long footrail that could injury your ankles if you fell down onto it.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Sep 13, 2010 - 09:12am PT
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I have to wonder at this point...
Has Steve even ever actually said he seriously expressed an interest in doing this route? .... or is all this talk of him doing WOS simply a fantasy in the collective Taco-mind?
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Sep 13, 2010 - 10:56am PT
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The first ascent party of Jensen and Smith:
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Sep 13, 2010 - 10:59am PT
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Ammon McNeely climbed the 2 pitch left side start in spring 2006,
It has 2 starts (leftside and normal?)? Hasn't it only been climbed once?
It really is the greatest route ever!
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nature
climber
Whereverland....
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Sep 13, 2010 - 12:13pm PT
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I'm just waiting for the coveted fourth ascent.
this lifetime guys.... this lifetime!
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Prod
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2010 - 12:55pm PT
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Hi Just the Maid,
On Sept 26th 2009 SG said this....
No substitute for direct examination and that is my intention. The matter will be settled as a result. What could be better?!?
So I'd say that yes Steve did say he was going to climb WOS.
Are you and Eric going to IC sushi?
Prod.
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Sep 13, 2010 - 02:02pm PT
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I am going to claim the "sit start" from here in Washington.
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