best stemming pitch?

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Peter Haan

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Apr 14, 2010 - 10:26pm PT

I like Warbler’s comment. The left side of Moby Dick is effing awesome. And stemming is the key as Kevin says. More people should do this sucker. It is the start to bigger-time problems like it. Most avoid it like crazy, I have noticed. It is a pretty damned heavy climb. I did it in september of 1966. I was 18.

I think that the Bircheff-Williams bitd was just unbelievably cool, so I chime in with Philo, Chief and Simon/ihateplastic. Incredible first pitch. Hard to believe while you are doing it. Wild, really wide stems, grabbing the arete many times, tiny nuts, tiny edges. Wonderful. Did it with Molly. I have more radical shots (doing nearly complete splits) in slide form but this is all I have off the HD right now:Higgins.

Watusi

Social climber

Newport, OR

Apr 14, 2010 - 10:35pm PT

KLK wrote: "the crux on 29 palms is shorter and much easier than Streetcar
same w. scary monsters
same w. that short 5.12 at suicide"

Are we talking quality here or difficulty? I had "Streetcar" so wired I could do it barefoot, callin' it .10d...

Jeremy Handren

climber

Apr 15, 2010 - 12:57am PT

If all you Jtree Crusties ever get sick of running laps on the same 5, grainy, 20' high corners....then just drive a few hours north for the real thing.

Pitch 4 Jet Stream
Tipping Point
Feather
Scooped
Cloud Tower Direct
Velvet Tongue
Texas Tower Direct
Buffallo Soldiers, pitch 4

Every one a pure fun, crotch splitting, game of vertical twister

TKingsbury

Trad climber

Apr 15, 2010 - 01:06am PT

TripL7

Trad climber

san diego

Apr 15, 2010 - 01:24am PT

Two of the very early ones that come to mind, and stretched me to my limits were the last(crux)move or so on Outer Limits. Where you stem over with only some very bottomed out pin scars to crimp on that steep face(maybe not a classic stem)!!

And as previously mentioned Anticipation at Arch Rock which we did a few day's later. Both stellar routes!

Stemming chimney's, always scared the crap outta me...tended to run it out.

Fogarty

climber

BITD

Apr 15, 2010 - 10:53am PT

klk

Trad climber

cali

Apr 15, 2010 - 11:04am PT

Streetcar barefoot, eh? I was happy just to do the damn thing.

Fogarty

climber

BITD

Apr 15, 2010 - 01:26pm PT

Streetcar barefoot 5.10d?

I would say no one has done street car more times than WATUSI,
Mike did you ever do it bare foot?

I remember seeing pic's of you on MEGMETS barefoot and playing the base in some video.

Mike remember the BUBA BRUSH? Any photos of one?

MF.

bob

climber

Apr 15, 2010 - 01:45pm PT

Streetcar is all about the sit start. It ads 1000 moves in a foot or two.
I'm catching up with you Watusi. I'm only 37 so I have some more times in me. No barefoot ascent, but approach shoes when I stay in Jtree for more than a week.
Do people really stem Rockwork Orange? I chimney up that thing!
Bob J.

Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Apr 15, 2010 - 01:48pm PT

Peter... Dang! Now that I look at that pitch I wonder why I was such a wus. It looks quite doable.

caughtinside

Social climber

Davis, CA

Apr 15, 2010 - 01:52pm PT

I tried Scary Monsters. It lived up to it's billing as 'the hardest moves you'll never do."

bob

climber

Apr 15, 2010 - 02:12pm PT

Rocky Horoor Show at Pat and Jack Pinnacle had some really big stem moves on it as I recall. So does the first pitch of Iron Maiden in Joshua Tree.
First pitch of Gates of Delirium in Ribbon Falls has some big ol' stems that are a lot like Thrill of Desire in Joshua Tree.
Stemming is the best.
Bob

PS Don't forget all the routes on the Hulk.

Chief

climber

Apr 15, 2010 - 02:40pm PT

If all you Jtree Crusties ever get sick of running laps on the same 5, grainy, 20' high corners....then just drive a few hours north for the real thing.

Har har har, that's great!

Watusi good to hear you chime in on the Josh micro classics.
Loved Warrior Eagle once I found it, Rockwork Orange must do, Cretan Bulldancer felt solid on green RPs when I was 25, went back a few years ago and it scared the crap out out of me. I got so I could do the Streetcar for awhile but could never make it across the Gunsmoke. Go figure.

Trad climber

southwest

Apr 15, 2010 - 02:44pm PT

i second Scary Monsters - awesome corner / stemming

Gobi

Trad climber

Orange CA

Apr 15, 2010 - 02:57pm PT

Pitch four of the Venturi Effect on the Incredible Hulk. Totally perfect!

Jennie

Trad climber

Elk Creek, Idaho

Apr 15, 2010 - 03:00pm PT

Beerbong inTensleep canyon. Fun, but not long as Devils Tower stemming.

Alan Rubin

climber

Amherst,MA.

Apr 15, 2010 - 04:36pm PT

I'm surprised that no one has mentioned Sunshine Dihedral at Smith Rocks--an incredible corner climb and trad at Smith--maybe that's why no one has mentioned it!!! It is on a par with Moratorium, Bircheff-williams, etc. in the great stemming sweepstakes.